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NO such thing as to much... 440tq and 460 hp at the rear wheels.... Last dyno..... WIsh I had about 50-100 more hp and tq ... Power is like a drug, very addictive...And you get accustom to it quickly.
Are you the one trying to make your C3 not so light at warp speed?
It's not just about how much hp you have, it's about *where* you have that hp.
Unfortunately, some setups may make higher hp figures at higher engine rpms, but also make lower hp at lower rpms. You have to compensate by changing the gear-ratio and installing a looser converter so that the engine is in its optimal rpm range, but this is not always that fun on the street.
The primary thing you'll want is to identify the rpm range you are most comfortable for your ordinary driving, and choose an engine-combination that maximizes power in that range. You might find that a 300hp engine that makes that power at 4000rpm is a lot more enjoyable than a 500hp engine that makes that power at 7000rpm, but that only makes 200hp from 2000rpm-4000rpm.
It's not just about how much hp you have, it's about *where* you have that hp.
Unfortunately, some setups may make higher hp figures at higher engine rpms, but also make lower hp at lower rpms. You have to compensate by changing the gear-ratio and installing a looser converter so that the engine is in its optimal rpm range, but this is not always that fun on the street.
The primary thing you'll want is to identify the rpm range you are most comfortable for your ordinary driving, and choose an engine-combination that maximizes power in that range. You might find that a 300hp engine that makes that power at 4000rpm is a lot more enjoyable than a 500hp engine that makes that power at 7000rpm, but that only makes 200hp from 2000rpm-4000rpm.
Thank you very much, great points if I go crate to ask the company.
No problem. Had it for about 8 years. One note: The origional paperwork that came with the engine recommended a 750 carb. The engine drowned with that carb. Never could get it adjusted out until I went with a 600. Now I hear the recommendation is for a 600 - 650 CFM carb.
No problem. Had it for about 8 years. One note: The origional paperwork that came with the engine recommended a 750 carb. The engine drowned with that carb. Never could get it adjusted out until I went with a 600. Now I hear the recommendation is for a 600 - 650 CFM carb.
i thought around 400hp would be good around 4000 revs.
How many litres per / hundred kms would you get average driving around town. ( or miles per gallon , i live in au)
Not sure. I only work 2 days a week. I might drive on 1 of those days but mostly my driving is on Friday nights to the local cruise night and sat or Sun late afternoon early evening just the wife and I out for a 60 mile hop.
I have to split time because I have a bike and I really like to ride.
In the process of having my l48 replaced with a 434 sbc or 383 sbc. With the 434 build, we are shooting for around 518 hp/ 550tq. The car will be very streetable/docile on pump gas and still get mid-upper teen mpg.
What we decided was to keep the stock th350 and 308 rear end. Not having to rebuild the driveline and put the money saved into the engine. This would make the car streetable with reasonable rpm at cruising. The trick will be to build an engine that is tuned to the th350/308 rear end. This would mean maxing tq at around 3500rpm with a 22-2400 stall.
Just by nature, the 400sbc has significant tq. the large hp/tq numbers are just a by product of of the build with good flowing heads. Much emphasis would be in matching cam/compression/rod ratio etc. to achieve the results.
Crate engines may be a convenient one stop shop, but not tuned to your specific rear end gearing.
In the process of having my l48 replaced with a 434 sbc or 383 sbc. With the 434 build, we are shooting for around 518 hp/ 550tq. The car will be very streetable/docile on pump gas and still get mid-upper teen mpg.
What we decided was to keep the stock th350 and 308 rear end. Not having to rebuild the driveline and put the money saved into the engine. This would make the car streetable with reasonable rpm at cruising. The trick will be to build an engine that is tuned to the th350/308 rear end. This would mean maxing tq at around 3500rpm with a 22-2400 stall.
Just by nature, the 400sbc has significant tq. the large hp/tq numbers are just a by product of of the build with good flowing heads. Much emphasis would be in matching cam/compression/rod ratio etc. to achieve the results.
Crate engines may be a convenient one stop shop, but not tuned to your specific rear end gearing.
You are going to put that much time, effort, and money into an engine like that, and chintz out on the tranny? My Grandpappy would have told you "Son, I say, I say, son, you're a penny wise, but a dollar foolish!". (I threw the Foghorn Legorn bit in there for the humorous effect, my Grandpappy didn't really talk that way.) A modern overdrive transmission has soooo many advantages over an old 3-speed, it's no comparison. The deeper first gear, the overdrive, lock up converter, c'mon, man! Think about it. Ahhhh, you can always do it later, I guess.
didnt these cars have at tops about 250 for the small blocks pre 1973 and about 330 for the big blocks like the 454 with a ton of torque?
I mean wouldnt it be easier to just have an engine rebuild and then put some new stuff on it like a higher performance cam shaft and all those goodies before doing something drastic, or just do that from the getgo and skip the engine rebuild bit.
You are going to put that much time, effort, and money into an engine like that, and chintz out on the tranny? My Grandpappy would have told you "Son, I say, I say, son, you're a penny wise, but a dollar foolish!". (I threw the Foghorn Legorn bit in there for the humorous effect, my Grandpappy didn't really talk that way.) A modern overdrive transmission has soooo many advantages over an old 3-speed, it's no comparison. The deeper first gear, the overdrive, lock up converter, c'mon, man! Think about it. Ahhhh, you can always do it later, I guess.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
I hear you. Since I would not be drag racing, auto crossing etc according to the builder, the driveline ought to be fine. Like you said, can always do it later if need be. For now, have a budget to work with and mind as put it all in the engine...just have to be restrained from stomping on the accelerator too often
didnt these cars have at tops about 250 for the small blocks pre 1973 and about 330 for the big blocks like the 454 with a ton of torque?
I mean wouldnt it be easier to just have an engine rebuild and then put some new stuff on it like a higher performance cam shaft and all those goodies before doing something drastic, or just do that from the getgo and skip the engine rebuild bit.
That's where I'm at. Haven't leaned to either side, both have their merits.
I have been researching machine shops in my area.
I talked to my dad (insane mechanic) this weekend and he gave 2 points. Go crate if I want a quick turn around. Or take the same amount of money and do the rebuild with some moderate upgrades to achieve what I am looking for. He was more in favor of the rebuild.
Again, thanks for all the input, please keep them coming. There have been some really good points and tech tips put up here, that I would have never thought of. I will use this info to help make my decision, This winter is when I want to do this project. T