Man, this looks like a pain in the rear....I want to take entire trans and engine out at the same time including shifter linkage.

Small block with manual 4 speed, the cross member doesn't come out but there is a bracket that can be removed that holds up the trans. but is doesn't look like it can drop down far enough to get the shifter past the tunnel

sugestions? encouragement?? pictures?? LOL

 

As I recall, the shifter assembly is on its own bracket, which is bolted to the trans support bracket. Unlike a Hurst unit that is bolted directly to the trans tailshaft housing.

The shifter assembly would be removed along with the linkage (after disconnecting linkage levers at trans) to gain the space in the tunnel needed to remove engine-trans as a unit.

I've got some photos somewhere; maybe someone else is quicker since I'm at work and takes time to locate my images.

 

Check it out:

 

You can pull the engine and tranny together only if you can get the front of the car up high enough to provide room for the tail of the tranny on the way out.

 

I tend to use a slightly different approach than raising the front. With clutch cars having the trans x-member fixed, I found that by raising the rear and lowering the front, I get better access around trans tailshaft to push-pull into place.

Different trans now but the nose is high enough only for the cherry-picker's legs and casters to maneuver freely underneath.

The use of an engine leveler is a key asset to make this option more flexible.





Different method and perhaps, one to consider. YMMV.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Mine is Hurst shifter bolted to transmission....

Looks like this is going to be fun, my cherry picker front wheels do not swivel like yours do^^

The more I look at it the worse it gets....I guess I just need to quit looking and start working.

Thanks for the pictures,

 

It's kinda spooky having a small block hanging over your front end fiberglass. That's always been the nervous part for me.

 

Thank you, for saying "trans"! (not the unsettling "tranny")

 

LOL, when I hear or read the word tranny, it reminds me of Harry Hines BLVD in Dallas Tx....

I shouldn't be so lazy and type the whole word, transmission....

 

one more question...
I have read a BUNCH of threads through search and can't seem to get a solid answer...

Will an EDELBROCK air gap intake with 4150 holley fit under a stock hood?

 

LOL...algong those lines, why do people say "motor" mount when it's really an ENGINE mount ?!!!

 

Why do you park on a driveway, and drive on a parkway? Wow, talk about getting off topic...........


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

Wow!! I never even thought of that! Genius!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

You've got that right, Easy Mike.

This whole Corvette experience has caused many hours of varied distress, contortions, or convulsions. Certainly opportunity to keep it all in perspective.

Just taking the combo from the side was a lesson learned; I'd always grabbed from the front of other models, to lift out but the boom on my old Lakewood crane is a fixed length and does not have the leverage.

The tunnels are so small too so it has provided opportunity to develop optional (safe) methods to over come the obstacles. So far, so good.

 

When we pulled the engine & (auto) trans out of our car, the front clip was off. We`ll be putting the engine back after the front clip is back on the car.
Am I hearing that we`ll have issues getting it back in? Will the levelor solve the problem of the tail shaft hitting the ground?
Also, the radiator needs to be out when engine goes in, right?

 

Scott, thanks for the consideration and just thought that there had to be a different way to work with that dang welded x-member. As much as I dislike laying on my back to button things back up, I needed to safely use the tools I had to smooth out the geometry.

The leveler brings the tools ability to adjust weighted geometry on-the-fly, up or down on transmission tailshaft as needed, instead of pure brawn. Having a transmission or other hydraulic jack can be helpful but then things start getting cluttered underneath and caution to not disrupt the apple cart, if the use of hydraulics is not synchronized. Safety first.

Again, this was my solution and after making the engine bay all purty, didn't want to booger anything during the install.

That said, removing the radiator and rad support was purely selfish, in order to have max maneuverability over stated fiberglass. It *is* an anticipated event when raising that much combined weight five to six feet in the sky on a single boom, before lowering into the chassis.

I like the flexibility of extra room to jockey the combo, as needed and regularly remove the radiator; it doesn't take but one bad swing with the water pump or harmonic balancer mounted to poke a hole into a radiator component. Been there, done that; don't need any more t-shirts. Besides, in my case, Jim DeWitt would know I'm a bubba making a mess out of his crews beautiful work. Installer-caused rework is unprofessional and costly.

Anyway, my .02.

 

For grins, try it with a BIG BLOCK. Puckered so tight you can't drive a nail in there with a sledgehammer. From the time it's high enough to go over the side untill it's totally away.

 

Agree on the pucker statement even though mine is only a 350. I had to go over the side instead of from the front. Love this forum, lots of great ideas!!

 

That's an untrue sweeping generality.
My Hurst Competition Plus bolts to a plate which bolts to the tailhousing. Been that way for almost 40 years. Here's a scan of the original installation instructions. #1 within a circle is referenced as 'mounting plate' part #1958008.

 

A lot of people don't realize you can take 2 bolts out of the shifter and it will seperate from the mounting plate. You don't even have to remove them, just unscrew them until they are out of the threads and slide the shifter out after removing the shifter arms.
Don