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So after installing new T-Arms, strut rods, spring cushions, etc. My rear alignment is well, somewhere.
I shimmed the T-Arms to center (equal shims on both sides) for now and brought the car down onto a pair of vinyl floor tiles smeared with white grease (read that tip somewhere here)
Took a straight piece of hardwood and cut it to fit onto the lip of the rim, clamped a Popsicle stick (my inner Bubba is happy now, wish I could have used duct-tape somehow) to hold it up off the fillet in the corner.
Tape (Damn, could have used the duct-tape here) the digital level to the stick and zero it on the floor.
Two bungee cords clipped into the rim to hold it tight. Check the vertical (for/aft) and started to adjust the strut.
One side was 1/2 degree -, the other was 2.7 degrees+
Since I know the cushions will compress more I aimed for a neutral camber
Adjusted a little, bounced the car a lot, check and repeat until both at zero
Here's how much the tiles shifted to bring the 2.7 to 90
Once the car moves a little I'll re-check but I just needed it remotely close until it can go for a 4-wheel alignment
Mooser
Last edited by Mooser; Nov 26, 2017 at 08:26 PM.
Reason: fix photobucket mess
I like what you have done !! I have done similar methods ( not the grease part) to get it reasonable to get to a shop but just bouncing it i would not think cuts the mustard, You need to reverse the car and go forward a few revolutions to get it settled then level up again,think you said that anyway. Your equal shims on both side is going to be reasonable as well but i use a string line half way up around the back of the tire and just have the string line slightly touching/bouncing the front of the tire half way up and then measure the distance how far it is from the front tire to the string. Its a 2 man job but gets it close. Unless your driving a major distance your alignment would have to be terribly out to cause any damage.
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; May 20, 2012 at 01:56 AM.
just bouncing it i would not think cuts the mustard, You need to reverse the car and go forward a few revolutions to get it settled then level up again.
I would have, but the car doesn't move under it's own power quite yet, and It's only got 6" behind it and about 3' in front. This was just to get remotely close. As it was, I was pretty close in my guesstimates on the adjustable struts vs the stock ones I took off, but with the old arms being bent I was in wild guess territory.
Once it's mobile I need to move it around some and re-torque a few items, then I'll dial this in once more before heading off to the alignment shop.
Mooser
VBP listed my year at zero camber for the rear. I just used a carpenters level and played with my adjustable struts till the bubble was in the center.
Since then I bought a Caster/Camber gauge from Longacre,, now I can set up the front alignment as well. Next purchase will be a set of turn plates from Longacre so I can set up my toe specs.
I was going to use the steel plate / roller method (Lars/Getz) but didn't have much for steel plate in stock.
As it was, you could easily push the car sideways on the tiles with one hand.
Just had a quick look at the Longacre site, pretty neat stuff. Hopefully I'll never need it
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Rough setting rear camber - one method
