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Razor Blade removing chunks.

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Old May 23, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
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Default Razor Blade removing chunks.

Thought I'd try the razor blade method on the back deck near the gas tank lid. There are a few areas that lifted off like the attached pic.

There appears to be only 1 repaint, with black primer the last layer.

* Is this normal?
* Could this be a mold defect that was filled?
* Did I use too much heat?

Thanks,
Jeff

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Old May 23, 2012 | 09:24 AM
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I'm not sure what caused it, but you're going to need a repair patch.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jlhtec
Thought I'd try the razor blade method on the back deck near the gas tank lid. There are a few areas that lifted off like the attached pic. ...

Did I use too much heat? ...
Are you using a HEAT GUN?

My wife used a razor blade and HAIR DRYER to remove the paint from my 1980. A HEAT GUN is too much heat. The paint should come off with about the same ease as peeling an apple. If the surface is too cold the paint will "shatter" as the razor works, too hot and it will gouge. When the surface temperature is correct the paint peels off in strips.

Start with little or no heat and you will experience how the paint "shatters". Gradually add heat with a HAIR DRYER and the paint will now "peel". It takes a little time to get the hang of heating the paint ahead of where you are working the razor blade. Sorry, more difficult to explain than to do.

Last edited by mapman; May 23, 2012 at 09:59 AM.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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That is a serious gouge in the fiberglass....Avoid cooking the bare fiberglass with a heat gun...If you use one keep it a safe distance away from the glass.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 10:55 AM
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Thanks for the help!

I am using a heat gun because it is quiet compared to a hair dryer. Doing this at night, and trying not to wake the little ones.

The paint appears to be a single stage urethane, and the chunk was not caused from the edge of the blade gouging. It came up attached to the base primer.

Thought it might be a factory defect that was filled.

I will be gentler with the heat gun though.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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your scraping too hard also, the white is bare, raw scrapped fiberglass,
you want to leave the gray looking surface,...Primer.
your not shaving, ....you only want to remove the old paint.
get rid of the heat gun, or back it off.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jlhtec
...Thought it might be a factory defect that was filled...
Probably not. A panel with a visible defect that size would have been rejected at St. Louis. Just the same, it could have been a bad panel which looked okay and was only biding its time before showing up.

Looks like it showed up.

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Old May 23, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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The way they played "fill and grind" with these bodies at the St. Louis plant, I wouldn't be surprised if they had just dumped some filler into that hole, smoothed it out, and painted right over it. It's the reason that it's so hard to get a hood to fit on these cars - the panels had just about zero quality control.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 11:57 PM
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I think you found the first trunk on a c-3!?
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Old May 24, 2012 | 10:20 AM
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SS Urethene is tough stuff. When I "bladed" my old lacquer off, it came off fairly easily - but that was lacquer. The primer, even though 70's stuff, was more resistant - for that I used thinner on a rag.

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Old May 24, 2012 | 12:09 PM
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Thanks All! I gave up on the blade method. No matter how gentle, once I get through the urethane, It goes violently into the glass.

Now to fix the damage... Would Evercoat 870 work as the filler, and allow me to block the car later?

Thanks,
Jeff
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