Willcox weatherstripping
#1
Willcox weatherstripping
I installed ecklers weatherstripping on my 82 a while ago but it's been a few months and I still have to slam the door as hard as I can. Is willcox weatherstripping any better?
#2
CF JASOC Member
Try adjusting the striker plate? Only takes a couple minutes. Worth a try as long as the weather strip seals all the way around when you're done and the door still lines up with the quarter panel at the seam.
#4
Advanced
I'm just finishing installing Wilcox weatherstriping on my '68. Nice and soft, fits well and no slamming doors. (i wish Wilcox had that for my '74 Z28, it's replacement weatherstriping out of the box is very stiff - soffseal).
Don
Don
#5
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Hi Holden..
I'm not sure what brand they carry and you might try to find out. If it was CRC then I'd look for other possible solutions. (CRC is the only brand we carry)
Over time as our cars age, people (previous owners) make adjustments to the doors strikers and other parts that can and will affect the door weatherstrip alignment.
Doors not on the hinge in the correct place and/or hinge pin failure can also play a roll in how the door shuts.
Example: Failing hinge pins put more stress on the rear door weatherstrip plug which will also result in the door being hard to shut.
I'm not sure what brand they carry and you might try to find out. If it was CRC then I'd look for other possible solutions. (CRC is the only brand we carry)
Over time as our cars age, people (previous owners) make adjustments to the doors strikers and other parts that can and will affect the door weatherstrip alignment.
Doors not on the hinge in the correct place and/or hinge pin failure can also play a roll in how the door shuts.
Example: Failing hinge pins put more stress on the rear door weatherstrip plug which will also result in the door being hard to shut.
#9
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The best way is to look at the rear jamb... see if the paint is worn off and then look at the weatherstrip and see if the fat end up by the upper jab is being crushed. Also take a look at the front plug too.. Neither should be crushing an absorb anent amount. Also.. Open the door and then pick up on the end and see if you have movement in the pins.
#12
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Pins are the pins in the door hinge.. when the bushings wear out you must replace the bushings and most of the time the pins. If you can wiggle the back of the door up and down you'll feel if there is a problem.
What do the weatherstrips look like on the fat ends.. Are they being crushed? Got Pics
What do the weatherstrips look like on the fat ends.. Are they being crushed? Got Pics
#13
Melting Slicks
I bought a weatherstrip kit years ago for my car during restoration. It was not soft and supple like the factory weatherstripping and having been through it before on other cars (using 'hard' weatherstripping), I went out and bought a different product for my car. Later on, I received a flyer indicating that they were carrying softer weatherstripping that was equivelant to original. The price was higher. So, my guess is the OP may have ordered and received the harder product.
BTW, I ordered some weatherstripping from Steele Rubber Products which claims their gasketing meets all OEM specifications and it was the hardest product I've seen. It was extruded rubber. I sent it back right away. Seems all mfgrs claim their product meets OEM specs. Someone should gather up the competing products and do a review on them.
Personally, I would never buy the cheap stuff because the hassle just isn't worth it. A lot of guys say the gaskets will eventually settle, but that takes years.
Mark G
BTW, I ordered some weatherstripping from Steele Rubber Products which claims their gasketing meets all OEM specifications and it was the hardest product I've seen. It was extruded rubber. I sent it back right away. Seems all mfgrs claim their product meets OEM specs. Someone should gather up the competing products and do a review on them.
Personally, I would never buy the cheap stuff because the hassle just isn't worth it. A lot of guys say the gaskets will eventually settle, but that takes years.
Mark G
#14
Wasn't sure if you need the back end of the door or the end that is close to the dash. The pics above are of the back end and the next pics are closer to the dash. Thanks for all the help