Jacking up/ jack stands 1968 Vette
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5th Gear
Joined: May 2012
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Jacking up/ jack stands 1968 Vette
Was wondering the best place to jack up a 68 Vette and the best place to put jack stands. I just this car and am new to these old Vettes and I'm paranoid about messing something up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,483
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From: Lititz PA
The frame is not as strong as it looks. Especially the curved part that goes between the two front wheels.
I always use a piece of wood between the floor jack and a strong part of the frame to try and spread out the load a little.
There is a wealth of information on this forum. So read, read, read!
John
I always use a piece of wood between the floor jack and a strong part of the frame to try and spread out the load a little.
There is a wealth of information on this forum. So read, read, read!
John
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
while xccter does have the gm recommedations, after 40 years of abuse and rust i (my person opinion here) wouldn't jack the car at those points. i tried to jack my car at the rear area once (at the rear of the door) and i immediately developed a widening door gap from frame flex. i quickly stopped.
now when i jack my cars i raise each end separately. when lifting only the rear end, i start with a wooden block under the diffy, then place jacks under the rear gm lift points and also on the frame where the fuel tank crossmember attaches. that prevents the frame from distorting at the kick-up. when lifting the entire car, i start at the front with a block under the front crossmember (yeah, mine's dented) then place jacks and short pieces of 2x4 under at the very front of the frame, just short of where the frame extensions are bolted. you'll see that a 5 or 6 inch piece will fit nicely. then i raise the back. these are the same points as the suspension loads, so there is little change in forces on the frame.
now when i jack my cars i raise each end separately. when lifting only the rear end, i start with a wooden block under the diffy, then place jacks under the rear gm lift points and also on the frame where the fuel tank crossmember attaches. that prevents the frame from distorting at the kick-up. when lifting the entire car, i start at the front with a block under the front crossmember (yeah, mine's dented) then place jacks and short pieces of 2x4 under at the very front of the frame, just short of where the frame extensions are bolted. you'll see that a 5 or 6 inch piece will fit nicely. then i raise the back. these are the same points as the suspension loads, so there is little change in forces on the frame.
CF JASOC Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,040
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From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
I always use a wooden puck with a pad of thick rubber when jacking, and just the rubber pads with jack stands for reasons previously mentioned.
I use ramps whenever possible.
I use ramps whenever possible.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
If you do not need to remove the wheels I would jack the car and put those ramps under the wheels. If you need the wheels removed I would put a stand under each lower A-arm closet to the wheel, and a stand under the rear suspension closest to each wheel (without bending/breaking lower shock mounts/etc.)
For safety purposes I definitely would also add a stand under each designated frame area contacting the frame just enough to hold the stand firmly in place.
Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 3, 2017 at 04:56 PM.
