Stock power brakes on 68 mostly stock 327 and 200 4R

I sure could use some information. I am trying to figure out my braking problem. Here is today's scenario:

While looking into the MC reservoirs there was a "squirt" out of the Compensating Port (holes with a large divit around them) in both reservoirs that broke the top of the fluid level while my assistant was pushing down on the brake pedal. Is this normal? I think you would see the "squirt" only during the return of the pedal.

Thanks for the help

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327 SIG. Site Octopus 68-69

charlie
Last edited by cgc68 : Today at 04:06 PM.

 

Yep, normal. Until the seal passes the hole where the fluid goes into the cylinder the path of least resistance is right back out the hole.

 

Thank you so much for answering my post. I will try and check tomorrow to see when this is happening if it is happening before or after the seal passes the hole.

I still have the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds on the car. I was wondering if you had any idea how hot your master cylinder gets to the touch. Mine is so hot after I run the car for about 30 minutes or so that it's all you can do to hold onto the bottom of the master cylinder for six or seven seconds. Does this sound normal? My motor is not running hot according to the temperature gage. It usually runs less than 200°.

 

Mine get that hot too. Make sure your radiator and control arm seals are there so all the air coming through the radiator goes through the engine compartment and cools on its way through.

Bill

 

[QUOTE=texaswilkins;1581318377]Mine get that hot too. Make sure your radiator and control arm seals are there so all the air coming through the radiator goes through the engine compartment and cools on its way through.

Bill :


Thank you you answer helps me a great bit.

I guess I just never paid attention to how hot the MC was getting. I would think it would be very hot being that close to the manifold. I am having brake trouble and trying to elinmanate possibilities.

I have all new radiator seals and the control arm seals are in place.

 

If the water temp. is at 200 degrees then the air flowing through the engine compartment will be close to the same or higher. The maximum temp. that a human hand can hang onto is about 130 degrees. Above that it is very painful. The fluid should jump up for a split second before the refill holes are closed off by the master cylinder seals. Mine does the same. mike...

 

The first thing I want to say is thank you guys.
Second thing is I am learning a lot.

So here is the conclusions that I've come to the "squirt" is normal and it's not abnormal for the master cylinder to feel hot and since I am able to keep my hand on the master cylinder body for a short period of time it must not be much more than 130° if that.

I was really hoping that this thread wouldn't turn out to be another help I need help with my brakes but it looks like it's where I'm headed. I am sure that this type of thread gets old but here goes.

Help I need help with my brakes! When I first start the car the brake pedal is very soft and goes almost to the floor before I start feeling resistance I do have brakes just not a lot. Today I drove the car in town only went about 2 miles I noticed that the brake pedal was getting harder and harder feeling and I was pushing the brake pedal down less and less to get the car to stop. By the time I got the car home the brake pedal was very hard very firm and the front brakes were starting to lock up both front calipers were hot to the touch. The back brake calipers were just a normal temperature.

I think I may have more than one problem I think I have adjusted the booster to master cylinder rod too long not letting the pressure bleed back off of the brakes once I apply them but it seems to be only the front brakes. Second is I have a soft-pedal which I need to address again.

I don't want this to get any longer so if you have any questions thoughts ideas please let me know thank you.

 

Please go to my new post master cylinder question (now break question)