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I just replaced my factory heads with a set of Dart aluminum heads. I installed a new temp sending unit in the space between cylinders 1 and 3. My question is, on the other head, between cylinders 6 and 8, there is a corresponding oriface to install the temp unit. Does this location need to be plugged?
I just replaced my factory heads with a set of Dart aluminum heads. I installed a new temp sending unit in the space between cylinders 1 and 3. My question is, on the other head, between cylinders 6 and 8, there is a corresponding oriface to install the temp unit. Does this location need to be plugged?
Thanks,
Bryan
what temp sending unit did you use? I have same heads and have been looking for one to fit....the threads are 3/8" pipe and original is 1/2"
what temp sending unit did you use? I have same heads and have been looking for one to fit....the threads are 3/8" pipe and original is 1/2"
I use the term installed loosely. I have the new one but haven't put it in yet. I talked to Dart about this and they suggested an adapter. Here is a link from summit for what they have available. Hope this helps.
The method I used may not help you but here goes...
If you know someone one with a lathe you can pull this off easy. I put the original temp sender in the lathe, turn it down and then re-thread it to 3/8 npt. Takes me about 10 minutes to do this and there is plenty of material on the original sender to do this.
what temp sending unit did you use? I have same heads and have been looking for one to fit....the threads are 3/8" pipe and original is 1/2"
I just ordered from Summit Standard Motor Co. part number TS76. Fits the 3/8 port in the dart heads and they assure me that it will work with the OE temp gauge.
I just ordered from Summit Standard Motor Co. part number TS76. Fits the 3/8 port in the dart heads and they assure me that it will work with the OE temp gauge.
I just bought one today.
I put a meter on it and it has different resistance that the original...I hope it works. I'll update tomorrow after I get the car running.
I'm sure it will "work", as they said, but what they don't say is that it will be accurate.
The resistance is not a set linear amount over the heat range of the unit. If you have both units side-by-side at "some" temp they might be the same, might not. In fact a stock unit will probably not be accurate with a non-stock gauge.
anyone have an idea how to resolve this other than turning original one down to 3/8 NPT?
I do not have a lathe....
How do these work anyway? Does it get 12v or is this the ground circuit?
The wire to the sensor is 12V. If you put Teflon tape around the threads you won't get a ground so that could be part of the problem. The adapter may locate the sensor too far out of the coolant stream which may cause an inaccurate reading. Someone did a comparison of several temp sensors a while back and the cheap one from Advance Auto was the most accurate of the bunch.
I wonder if the one I have is just bad or so far off it just won't work with my gauge...
I will clean the threads off, it come with tape already installed.
I did get resistance to ground but I didn't record it compared to the original. I will check it out this week sometime.