Horn contact help
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
Horn contact help
I'm finally getting around to troubleshooting the horn, which has never worked as long as I've had the car. First I found this thread which has excellent explanations how the horn works: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...th-cap-on.html
Removing the cap from my tilt/tele. column, there are some obvious problems. For example: what is wrong with this picture?
Some bubba had the bright idea to bolt the contacts closed. I am guessing that next he could not figure out how the stop the horn from blowing, so he just left out the spring, eyelet and insulator, which I now need to replace.
Now to my question: When I removed the bolt, the metal contact with the three mounting holes is bent. I assume I can hammer it back flat and reassemble it with new plastic rivets, removing all the rust for good electrical contact. Is there any problem with this approach, or should I just replace the whole assembly?
Removing the cap from my tilt/tele. column, there are some obvious problems. For example: what is wrong with this picture?
Some bubba had the bright idea to bolt the contacts closed. I am guessing that next he could not figure out how the stop the horn from blowing, so he just left out the spring, eyelet and insulator, which I now need to replace.
Now to my question: When I removed the bolt, the metal contact with the three mounting holes is bent. I assume I can hammer it back flat and reassemble it with new plastic rivets, removing all the rust for good electrical contact. Is there any problem with this approach, or should I just replace the whole assembly?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,239
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From: Palatine, Peoples Republic of Illinois
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
Yeah, I saw that part on Willcox's site. There is also post #25 in the thread I referenced where Roger suggests removing the plastic rivets from that assembly and reusing the original metal parts, I presume for better alignment. If that is the case, I'll just get the rivets for $2.76 - http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=8145.
Does anyone who has repaired horns have any recommendations? I also want to confirm whether the metal contact with the three mounting holes should be perfectly flat or have a slight curvature before I hammer it flat.
Does anyone who has repaired horns have any recommendations? I also want to confirm whether the metal contact with the three mounting holes should be perfectly flat or have a slight curvature before I hammer it flat.
Last edited by indydoug; Aug 29, 2012 at 11:33 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
with that bolt in there.. the horn is sure to blow. You can purchase just the rivets if you want to go that route.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=8145
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=8145
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Don't forget you still need the eyelet (the part with the upset head), the spring, and the plastic insulator that Bubba threw away to stop the horn from blowing.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=4794
You need to insert the spring first into the plastic tower that is part of the lower horn contact. Then the eyelet with the upset head against the spring. Then the plastic insulator to hold everything together.
Also some kits supply an eyelet that is too long for your application. You may need to trial fit the eyelet and spring and then place the upper horn contact with the leg against the eyelet. The leg should just start to depress the eyelet. You may need to cut the eyelet to a shorter length. Just a point of information. The "leg" on your upper horn contact is always in contact with the eyelet. (Pressing on the horn cap does not change the position of the horn contact or the leg.) Pressing on the upper horn contact makes a continuous electrical path from one side of the contact to the other.
Jim
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=4794
You need to insert the spring first into the plastic tower that is part of the lower horn contact. Then the eyelet with the upset head against the spring. Then the plastic insulator to hold everything together.
Also some kits supply an eyelet that is too long for your application. You may need to trial fit the eyelet and spring and then place the upper horn contact with the leg against the eyelet. The leg should just start to depress the eyelet. You may need to cut the eyelet to a shorter length. Just a point of information. The "leg" on your upper horn contact is always in contact with the eyelet. (Pressing on the horn cap does not change the position of the horn contact or the leg.) Pressing on the upper horn contact makes a continuous electrical path from one side of the contact to the other.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Aug 30, 2012 at 08:11 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
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From: Saginaw Michigan
Once the spring, eyelet, and the upper horn contact are in place, there is no motion between the leg on the upper contact and the eyelet. So as long as things are assembled the insulator really doesn't do a thing. The next owner, or the next person to disassemble the horn cap and upper horn contact may not keep track of the eyelet and spring which might come jumping out at him.
Jim
Jim
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
with that bolt in there.. the horn is sure to blow. You can purchase just the rivets if you want to go that route.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=8145
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=8145
Does someone have an exploded view of just the horn contact assembly? Am I missing something?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
There's a bit of gasket material separating the spring steel from the bottom part of the contact. I had quite a post on it just a few months ago...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-vs-repop.html
If I remember right, the gasket material was ~1/16" (0.063")
I will not buy another repop horn contact if I can help it. The weight of the horn button alone was enough to close the contact and blow the horn with the repop.
Last edited by Shark Racer; Sep 11, 2012 at 09:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
There's a bit of gasket material separating the spring steel from the bottom part of the contact. I had quite a post on it just a few months ago...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-vs-repop.html
If I remember right, the gasket material was ~1/16" (0.063")
I will not buy another repop horn contact if I can help it. The weight of the horn button alone was enough to close the contact and blow the horn with the repop.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-vs-repop.html
If I remember right, the gasket material was ~1/16" (0.063")
I will not buy another repop horn contact if I can help it. The weight of the horn button alone was enough to close the contact and blow the horn with the repop.
Great thread, I missed that one somehow when I searched for horn contact assembly.
