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Alternator and Battery Problem

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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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Default Alternator and Battery Problem

Took my '79 out yesterday afternoon for an hour long trip. Noticed that according to my gauge, there was barely 12 volts charging. On the way home in the dark with my lights on, the gauge then showed less than 10 volts. I keep the battery on a float charger and the battery is only about
2 years old. The float charger light shows red after an overnight charge.
It normally turns green after a few minutes of being connected. Has anyone had a similar problem? Is it a faulty battery, alternator, or some other weird Corvette only issue?
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 08:08 AM
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have the alternator checked out, sounds like the internal regulator is going bad. You rebuild it yourself or buy a replacement, if you have the original, have it repaired to keep the original parts on the car.
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 11:55 AM
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Engine isn't original, so no problem putting in a rebuilt alternator if that's the issue. Someone told me that the negative ground on the frame could be the problem. I removed and cleaned it using battery terminal "grease" but everything looked clean. Battery terminals are also clean and tight. Don't know what else to look at.
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 06:22 PM
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Have your battery load tested before you buy an alternator.
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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I agree with the alternator/regulator being the most likely problem...but as already said, have the battery load tested after being charged. Occasionally a battery can have an internal short and show the same symptoms of a bad alternator.
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Roughrider
I agree with the alternator/regulator being the most likely problem...but as already said, have the battery load tested after being charged. Occasionally a battery can have an internal short and show the same symptoms of a bad alternator.
Need take a VOLTMETER to the alt output stud and see what it's doing, then to the battery direct and see what it says......when doing the test with engine not running, measure battery directly off the studs....assuming those old lead top posts....or the bolts if a side poster....see what voltage is, turn on headlights.....voltage better not be less then 12 volts even, if so, battery is in troubles....

measure the voltage when cranking, better not fall below 10.5 volts, or battery is bad/discharged.....which could still be a alternator problem....

get the car started....alt out stud should read 14.8 on initial startup...if not, it could be bad....13.3 + to 13.8 is a good running average after a while.....

this is why the typical AMP METER is useless in a car....and even GM went to voltmeters later on ......

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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
this is why the typical AMP METER is useless in a car....and even GM went to voltmeters later on ......
I have to politely disagree-
GM went to voltmeters from a cost perspective. Less/cheaper parts involved and most folks don't know the difference anyway.

A voltmeter only shows voltage but an ammeter shows the current draw in either direction- This is more indicative of what is going on with your charging system.
A voltmeter will only indicate something can't maintain the voltage. You still don't know if it's the alternator or battery that is at fault.
With an ammeter, if you are always registering positive, yet the battery won't stay charged, you most likely have a battery problem whereas if it's reading mostly negative, you most likely have alternator issues (assuming all your connections are otherwise clean and tight).

Just my .02
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ezobens
I have to politely disagree-
GM went to voltmeters from a cost perspective. Less/cheaper parts involved and most folks don't know the difference anyway.

A voltmeter only shows voltage but an ammeter shows the current draw in either direction- This is more indicative of what is going on with your charging system.
A voltmeter will only indicate something can't maintain the voltage. You still don't know if it's the alternator or battery that is at fault.
With an ammeter, if you are always registering positive, yet the battery won't stay charged, you most likely have a battery problem whereas if it's reading mostly negative, you most likely have alternator issues (assuming all your connections are otherwise clean and tight).

Just my .02
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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Thanks to all of you for your help. I tested the battery and alternator as suggested by "ezbens" using a Fluke tester and found that the problem was the alternator not charging.
It was below 13 volts on start up. Will replace it tomorrow.
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Psychovette
Thanks to all of you for your help. I tested the battery and alternator as suggested by "ezbens" using a Fluke tester and found that the problem was the alternator not charging.
It was below 13 volts on start up. Will replace it tomorrow.
I cannot take the credit-
mrvette provided the troubleshooting details for you.

Just to confirm, did you check the voltage at start-up on fast idle?
If you only checked at idle speed (750 RPM or so), you might not get an accurate picture. If the voltage is low and stays low even when revving the engine, then I would suspect the alternator.
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Psychovette
Thanks to all of you for your help. I tested the battery and alternator as suggested by "ezbens" using a Fluke tester and found that the problem was the alternator not charging.
It was below 13 volts on start up. Will replace it tomorrow.
I'd rebuild it but that's me. Had it down to 45 mins to take it off the car rebuild and get it back on the car. I would also take it and get it tested before getting a new one
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