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Improved Performance with 93 Octane - What Does This Mean?

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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 81pilot
Seadfoam is NOT a foam I don't know where you got that rediculous idea. It is called Seafoam because it was originally marketed for boats, thus the name Seafoam. Dump a can of it in some gas in a clear conatiner if you don't beleive me. AND it works as well or better than everything you mentioned and it is way less money. The Naptha in all of the things you mentioned is what delaminates the carbon anyway. There are different types of Seafoam, one is poured in the tank, the other is blown into the carb under pressure while it is running, does a great job. I have seen SF work wonders in my and others cars and in my extreme high performance bikes for decades. And I have seen E10 cause issues (bad issues) with rubber in fuel lines flaking and clogging everything. Even the small tiny sludge passing the fuel filter and eventually causing injectors to clog. I have seen needles in carbs get oxidation based on the E-10. I hate the stuff thank goodness we have a zillion places to get 100 percent gas.
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner is a foam,
I guess I didn't phrase the the sentence clearly enough, just assuming everyone knew Seafoam was a liquid, and would have understood the reference to "it"
The foaming action is what disperses it better throughout the top end, something the other brands don't do. even with pressure application.

Apparently you have never used the Mopar stuff and sounds like you don't want to. That is OK. I have used them ALL, WITH the pressure applicators, and without, in the gas tanks and direct and none come close to the Mopar stuff. Reread above, I said they all contain naptha, but the others contain additional solvents, probably why they also work better than Seafoam. And BTW, the Mopar stuff is cheaper than Seafoam.

As far as E10, this post was about probable top end carbon deposits, to which E10 contributes nothing. Rubber fuels lines and fuel delivery problems are a totally different issue.

No one dislikes E10 more than I, nor do I like using any additives or miracle cures, but trying to decoke an old engine that may have used leaded gas is well worth the process.
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 02:41 AM
  #22  
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Back in the late 70's & early 80's water injection was all the rage here, you could even buy
kits, which had adjustable nozzles, so you could tune the amount of water to your particular engine.

Mark
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 09:16 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by noonie
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner is a foam,
I guess I didn't phrase the the sentence clearly enough, just assuming everyone knew Seafoam was a liquid, and would have understood the reference to "it"
The foaming action is what disperses it better throughout the top end, something the other brands don't do. even with pressure application.

Apparently you have never used the Mopar stuff and sounds like you don't want to. That is OK. I have used them ALL, WITH the pressure applicators, and without, in the gas tanks and direct and none come close to the Mopar stuff. Reread above, I said they all contain naptha, but the others contain additional solvents, probably why they also work better than Seafoam. And BTW, the Mopar stuff is cheaper than Seafoam.

As far as E10, this post was about probable top end carbon deposits, to which E10 contributes nothing. Rubber fuels lines and fuel delivery problems are a totally different issue.

No one dislikes E10 more than I, nor do I like using any additives or miracle cures, but trying to decoke an old engine that may have used leaded gas is well worth the process.
I hear ya, no I have not used Mopar foam. I have seen Seafoam do some awesome stuff in the pour in version, I have used the blow in seafoam on my boats in the past and it worked great on the old 2 strokes that got gunked up easy. But being the open minded individual I am, I should try the Mopar stuff next time I need to use any. I periodically add some seafoam to all of my cars and they run like a top.
I do NOT however like any of the additives that go in the oil to cover up a problem like the honey stuff etc...but for somebody who drives a beater to work and can't afford to get it fixed it may be a bandaid to make a living. Thanks for the reply, sorry about the misunderstanding. Its all good!
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 09:37 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by M A Fry
Back in the late 70's & early 80's water injection was all the rage here, you could even buy
kits, which had adjustable nozzles, so you could tune the amount of water to your particular engine.

Mark
It is still used, there are kits for truck Deisel turbo engines. Water injection was used in heavy lift aircraft in the Air Force until the early 90's when fuel injection systems got more efficient and the EPA made rules about polution since water injection in turbines caused horrible emissions issues. But man they added boost when they were nailed. But the black smoke could be seen for miles.
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 10:40 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 81pilot
It is still used, there are kits for truck Deisel turbo engines. Water injection was used in heavy lift aircraft in the Air Force until the early 90's when fuel injection systems got more efficient and the EPA made rules about polution since water injection in turbines caused horrible emissions issues. But man they added boost when they were nailed. But the black smoke could be seen for miles.
Why would adding water to a turbine engine make black smoke? Maybe the water displaces some of the intake air, making it run rich? Keep in mind that if you wrote a book called "What ScottyP Doesn't Know About Turbine Engines", it would probably be the best book about turbine engines ever written! You can PM me if you want, so we don't derail the thread, but I'm sure I'm not the only one who is curious about this.

Also, I would like to praise you and noonie for handling your little misunderstanding like grown-ups. Noonie calmly explained himself, and you graciously apologized for the misunderstanding, and it was over. See how easy life can be, everybody?

OP, this may sound sarcastic, but please don't take it that way. If you don't want to introduce anything into the intake to clean deposits from the combustion chamber, you are left with adding stuff to the fuel, which doesn't work well because of the dilution, and removing the heads and scraping the deposits off. Things like Seafoam and water injection are common operations which have been done many, many times over the years with good results, they are nothing to be afraid of, the only thing to be careful of is introducing too much product at once, which could result in hydrostatic lock. You would have to introduce the material at quite a high rate for this to become a concern, though.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #26  
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Hi all. Thanks again for the incredibly useful info!

@ScottyP - not sarcastic at all! Admittedly, I've always been of the mind that nothing but gas and air should get past the carb - especially water. That said, this was based on limited knowledge (which is curable with an open mind).

Clearly, there are well-established practices and products meant for cleaning the top end. Looking back, I would've loved to have known about this with a couple of motorcycles!

At any rate, I'm looking forward to trying this process to see what kind of improvement it gives! With all of the reported smoke, I just have to remember to make sure the @$$ end of my vette is pointed outside!
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 03:07 PM
  #27  
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From: Enid Oklahoma
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Why would adding water to a turbine engine make black smoke? Maybe the water displaces some of the intake air, making it run rich? Keep in mind that if you wrote a book called "What ScottyP Doesn't Know About Turbine Engines", it would probably be the best book about turbine engines ever written! You can PM me if you want, so we don't derail the thread, but I'm sure I'm not the only one who is curious about this.

Also, I would like to praise you and noonie for handling your little misunderstanding like grown-ups. Noonie calmly explained himself, and you graciously apologized for the misunderstanding, and it was over. See how easy life can be, everybody?

OP, this may sound sarcastic, but please don't take it that way. If you don't want to introduce anything into the intake to clean deposits from the combustion chamber, you are left with adding stuff to the fuel, which doesn't work well because of the dilution, and removing the heads and scraping the deposits off. Things like Seafoam and water injection are common operations which have been done many, many times over the years with good results, they are nothing to be afraid of, the only thing to be careful of is introducing too much product at once, which could result in hydrostatic lock. You would have to introduce the material at quite a high rate for this to become a concern, though.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
Simply put...I don't know why....I was not an engine mechanic, but I did fly on all of the big birds back then, and when the nozzles were hit the smoke poured out. You could feel the rumble big time from inside and on the tarmac it was easy to tell when the water was on. All of the old tankers(refuelers) hit the injectors when rolling just to get off the ground as did any heavy loaded plane. The newer retrofit engines make more power without water injectors and do it way quieter and more efficiently. I have a couple of buddies who were pilots on heavies I will have to ask them why the black smoke came out. I do know the water injected engines went way rich at the same time the water was added to keep from having an instant lean condition. Lean on a turbine(jet engine) is not the same animal as lean on a V8, but has similar side effects, so maybe that accounts for the smoke. Good Question
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #28  
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I use Lucas additive and when I 1st got my Vette..it had a little knocking. The Lucas does a good job neutralizing all the bs type fuel additives they put in the fuel when it comes in to the Ports..it also cleans and lubricates internal parts so after 2 tanks of gas I have NO knocking at all and seem to have litle more power...
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