Need help taking the half shafts out
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Need help taking the half shafts out
I have the Ujoints loose on the diff sides.
Then I attempted to unbolt the outer flanges (on the wheel sides) - figured might as well get them off and inspect. Each side only gave me 3 bolts, the 4th bolt on each is stuck and PB Blaster with an impact aint moving them!
At this point I am leaning towards putting the 3 bolts back in and leaving the flanges alone. Will I still be able to get the outer Ujoints out of those flanges though simply by removing those round pins? Not a lot of room there to try and "press" anything out...
Thanks
Then I attempted to unbolt the outer flanges (on the wheel sides) - figured might as well get them off and inspect. Each side only gave me 3 bolts, the 4th bolt on each is stuck and PB Blaster with an impact aint moving them!
At this point I am leaning towards putting the 3 bolts back in and leaving the flanges alone. Will I still be able to get the outer Ujoints out of those flanges though simply by removing those round pins? Not a lot of room there to try and "press" anything out...
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,266
Likes: 156
From: Galloway Twp. NJ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
I have the Ujoints loose on the diff sides.
Then I attempted to unbolt the outer flanges (on the wheel sides) - figured might as well get them off and inspect. Each side only gave me 3 bolts, the 4th bolt on each is stuck and PB Blaster with an impact aint moving them!
At this point I am leaning towards putting the 3 bolts back in and leaving the flanges alone. Will I still be able to get the outer Ujoints out of those flanges though simply by removing those round pins? Not a lot of room there to try and "press" anything out...
Thanks
Then I attempted to unbolt the outer flanges (on the wheel sides) - figured might as well get them off and inspect. Each side only gave me 3 bolts, the 4th bolt on each is stuck and PB Blaster with an impact aint moving them!
At this point I am leaning towards putting the 3 bolts back in and leaving the flanges alone. Will I still be able to get the outer Ujoints out of those flanges though simply by removing those round pins? Not a lot of room there to try and "press" anything out...
Thanks
short answer... nope.
you need to unbolt those flanges... try using some heat and a breaker bar...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
Put the three bolts back on and tighten them.
Then on the last bolt which appears to be stuck; use a six point socket with impact or breaker bar to loosen.
Remove all four bolts together.
Repeat for other flange.
Dan
Then on the last bolt which appears to be stuck; use a six point socket with impact or breaker bar to loosen.
Remove all four bolts together.
Repeat for other flange.
Dan
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 27
From: Sonora CA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,317
Likes: 291
From: Ocala FL
Connect the inner and then drive the car to someplace you just have to be.
Guarantee those outer bolts will come out.
Seriously, let the PB Blaster sit a couple of days, and spray more one a few times between.
You will need a breaker bar and maybe a pipe to slide over the bar.
You need all of it out to change u-joints.
Guarantee those outer bolts will come out.
Seriously, let the PB Blaster sit a couple of days, and spray more one a few times between.
You will need a breaker bar and maybe a pipe to slide over the bar.
You need all of it out to change u-joints.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 371
Likes: 65
From: south wilmington il.
the best rust remover is a product called kroil it attacks the rust even climbs up a rusty bolt defying gravity.its been around forever but its hard to find,i got mine at a hardware store and its pricey,about 25 bucks a gallon but works .an old timer showed me this stuff back in the sixties and have been using it ever since and never had a bolt that it wouldnt get out.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 27
From: Sonora CA
the best rust remover is a product called kroil it attacks the rust even climbs up a rusty bolt defying gravity.its been around forever but its hard to find,i got mine at a hardware store and its pricey,about 25 bucks a gallon but works .an old timer showed me this stuff back in the sixties and have been using it ever since and never had a bolt that it wouldnt get out.
The last time I bought this product, I could only find it on their web-site. But it's worth every penny.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 609
Likes: 1
I just finished taking apart a burned 64. All these bolts were rusted in place. It was not pleasant.You have a couple of things going for you. A six point socket is yet to spin on the bolt head and you got three out.
I used a oxy/acc torch to heat the spindle side of the flange and get it red hot , melted a candle on it and the bolts came out. It is much better to use a little time as if you apply a lot of torque with a breaker bar the socket wil spin,or the bolt will twist off then you really have a mess. Kroil oil works very well as well as a mixtire of acatone and automatic transmission oil. Be careful and good luck.
I used a oxy/acc torch to heat the spindle side of the flange and get it red hot , melted a candle on it and the bolts came out. It is much better to use a little time as if you apply a lot of torque with a breaker bar the socket wil spin,or the bolt will twist off then you really have a mess. Kroil oil works very well as well as a mixtire of acatone and automatic transmission oil. Be careful and good luck.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
I tried the above suggestion today, still no dice. The same bolts are still not moving and they are starting to round off (not yet but close). I ordered some Kroil. Also will try heat next..... will a regular $15 plumbers torch work? I really dont want to spend over $100 on stronger/hotter torches.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
I just finished taking apart a burned 64. All these bolts were rusted in place. It was not pleasant.You have a couple of things going for you. A six point socket is yet to spin on the bolt head and you got three out.
I used a oxy/acc torch to heat the spindle side of the flange and get it red hot , melted a candle on it and the bolts came out. It is much better to use a little time as if you apply a lot of torque with a breaker bar the socket wil spin,or the bolt will twist off then you really have a mess. Kroil oil works very well as well as a mixtire of acatone and automatic transmission oil. Be careful and good luck.
I used a oxy/acc torch to heat the spindle side of the flange and get it red hot , melted a candle on it and the bolts came out. It is much better to use a little time as if you apply a lot of torque with a breaker bar the socket wil spin,or the bolt will twist off then you really have a mess. Kroil oil works very well as well as a mixtire of acatone and automatic transmission oil. Be careful and good luck.
Seriously everyone should try and use the candle and heat.
8Valve
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 27
From: Sonora CA
I'm not a big fan of bearing the crap out of things, BUT . . . there are times when a few blows from a 3 lb. hammer and a good drift pin on the top of the bolt head will do wonders. Sometimes this "shock treatment" is just enought to break the grip. Don't use a hammer that is too heavy.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
I just finished taking apart a burned 64. All these bolts were rusted in place. It was not pleasant.You have a couple of things going for you. A six point socket is yet to spin on the bolt head and you got three out.
I used a oxy/acc torch to heat the spindle side of the flange and get it red hot , melted a candle on it and the bolts came out. It is much better to use a little time as if you apply a lot of torque with a breaker bar the socket wil spin,or the bolt will twist off then you really have a mess. Kroil oil works very well as well as a mixtire of acatone and automatic transmission oil. Be careful and good luck.
I used a oxy/acc torch to heat the spindle side of the flange and get it red hot , melted a candle on it and the bolts came out. It is much better to use a little time as if you apply a lot of torque with a breaker bar the socket wil spin,or the bolt will twist off then you really have a mess. Kroil oil works very well as well as a mixtire of acatone and automatic transmission oil. Be careful and good luck.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 609
Likes: 1
You want to heat the rear flange where the bolt threads into as the front flange has a pass through hole. I melted the candle in the gap between the front and rear flange with hopes of getting it in the rear flange. You are right there is no space to put in where you need it. Putting it on the bolt head will do no good.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 609
Likes: 1
The heat and melted candle works in all most cases. I have used that trick since the 1960's. Just dont get the fastener to hot. If you get it to hot the wax will burst into flame and not melt and wick into the threads. I like the apple pie scented candles, they make my shop smell nicer that diesel.
Seriously everyone should try and use the candle and heat.
8Valve
Seriously everyone should try and use the candle and heat.
8Valve
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
You want to heat the rear flange where the bolt threads into as the front flange has a pass through hole. I melted the candle in the gap between the front and rear flange with hopes of getting it in the rear flange. You are right there is no space to put in where you need it. Putting it on the bolt head will do no good.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
I tried the above suggestion today, still no dice. The same bolts are still not moving and they are starting to round off (not yet but close). I ordered some Kroil. Also will try heat next..... will a regular $15 plumbers torch work? I really dont want to spend over $100 on stronger/hotter torches.
Make sure you are using a six point short socket (not deep well). If you round off the head then you can use a file to put new flats on the bolt head and use the next size smaller socket. Using a six point should do the trick though. Use too much force with a breaker bar and a pipe and you'll twist off the head of the bolt.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
All you need is the torch head. Then get a can of propane, for torches it will be taller and thinner than the short squat ones for lanterns and camping stoves. If you need/want more heat get what is called mapp gas. It's in a yellow can instead of the blue propane can.
Make sure you are using a six point short socket (not deep well). If you round off the head then you can use a file to put new flats on the bolt head and use the next size smaller socket. Using a six point should do the trick though. Use too much force with a breaker bar and a pipe and you'll twist off the head of the bolt.
Make sure you are using a six point short socket (not deep well). If you round off the head then you can use a file to put new flats on the bolt head and use the next size smaller socket. Using a six point should do the trick though. Use too much force with a breaker bar and a pipe and you'll twist off the head of the bolt.
As for the torch, I am going to pick up a small MAP/Oxygen kit.... $60 aint bad and Im sure it will come handy in the future:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_124500-13877...3701588&rpp=16
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
I am having a problem though fitting a short socket on the head since the walls of it are a little thicker than my deep well, therefore not reaching the bottom of the bolt at a straight angle. Maybe I should invest in a different (thinner) socket.
That's a cool little torch set-up your looking at getting. Careful you don't start melting stuff.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
1 came out with the heat. The other side still wont move no matter how much I heat it up, even with melting a candle. The worst part is that the head is getting more and more rounded. Its at the point that the socket actually slips up and away from the bolt head. Maybe filing it and giving it fresh straight sides and corners will help the socket stay on and let the impact gun do its job.
I will try again tomorrow, then I might try filing the bolt head to get nice 6 edges again. Kroil should be arriving soon as well.
Then.... how about drilling the bolt out? Anybody try this?
Or...welding a larger nut on top of the head and trying to spin it out this way? Will a weld hold up?
I will try again tomorrow, then I might try filing the bolt head to get nice 6 edges again. Kroil should be arriving soon as well.
Then.... how about drilling the bolt out? Anybody try this?
Or...welding a larger nut on top of the head and trying to spin it out this way? Will a weld hold up?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 371
Likes: 65
From: south wilmington il.
are you heating the bolt or the flange its stuck in.you have to heat the area around the bolt without heating the bolt itself,then as fast as you can safely set the torch down and then try breaking it loose.i sometimes tighten the bolt first then back it off if it moves.try the kroil for a couple hours and if it doesnt budge then try the heat again.you could also center punch the bolt and drill a hole half the diameter of the bolt as long as you can drill it straight in such a confined space that will be hard.i would only try welding a nut on the bolt as a last resort because the bolts in the flange are hardened and heat from welding the nut on will cause the steel to become brittle and the bolt head will snap off.