Sidepipes.... Stainless or black?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 88
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Sidepipes.... Stainless or black?
Thinking about adding sidepipes to my '75.
I don't know what would look better with black paint and Vector wheels... stainless, black, or black with a stainless shield?
Opinions?
I don't know what would look better with black paint and Vector wheels... stainless, black, or black with a stainless shield?
Opinions?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
Thanks for the feedback.
Most of the pics of Vettes I've seen 'on the net' the side pipes more or less match the wheels. Bright wheels = bright pipes. I thought the stainless side pipes might look out of place.
Most of the pics of Vettes I've seen 'on the net' the side pipes more or less match the wheels. Bright wheels = bright pipes. I thought the stainless side pipes might look out of place.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I'd go with 1) black headers (complete) and blacked-out rocker trim, or 2) stainless with bright rocker trim. Wouldn't mix black pipes with bright rocker trim.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 129
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
I'm a little different than everyone else. I currently have chrome (rusty chrome, but chrome) sidepipes that are due to be replaced. I also have a black car, albeit with standard rally rims.
I have the chrome SteelShields.
I'm actually going with black pipes and 'setting them off' with the chrome SteelShields. My car is going to stay in the 'Road Race L88' side of the fence, so I'm going with a little more of a functional/racing look than the full chrome/show look.
If you plan on getting SteelShields (which I highly recommend), I'd suggest the black pipes on your car. If you DON'T get the shields, I'd do stainless.
I have the chrome SteelShields.
I'm actually going with black pipes and 'setting them off' with the chrome SteelShields. My car is going to stay in the 'Road Race L88' side of the fence, so I'm going with a little more of a functional/racing look than the full chrome/show look.
If you plan on getting SteelShields (which I highly recommend), I'd suggest the black pipes on your car. If you DON'T get the shields, I'd do stainless.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,295
Likes: 30
From: one night in Bangkok you are never lonely
I'm a little different than everyone else. I currently have chrome (rusty chrome, but chrome) sidepipes that are due to be replaced. I also have a black car, albeit with standard rally rims.
I have the chrome SteelShields.
I'm actually going with black pipes and 'setting them off' with the chrome SteelShields. My car is going to stay in the 'Road Race L88' side of the fence, so I'm going with a little more of a functional/racing look than the full chrome/show look.
If you plan on getting SteelShields (which I highly recommend), I'd suggest the black pipes on your car. If you DON'T get the shields, I'd do stainless.
I have the chrome SteelShields.
I'm actually going with black pipes and 'setting them off' with the chrome SteelShields. My car is going to stay in the 'Road Race L88' side of the fence, so I'm going with a little more of a functional/racing look than the full chrome/show look.
If you plan on getting SteelShields (which I highly recommend), I'd suggest the black pipes on your car. If you DON'T get the shields, I'd do stainless.
BTW, Steelshields are highly polished stainless steel not chrome plated that could peel or rust.
Here is an example of what they look like on black side pipes.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 129
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
Great looking options. Thanks for all your opinions.
Whether black, 'shiny', or grey it seems everyone tries to make the sidepipes compliment the wheels.
I like my Vector wheels as they are ( although they need to be freshened up ), but would consider painting, or polishing them to better match whatever sidepipe option I go with.
I like the black pipes with stainless shields or all stainless with my wheels as they are.
Grey or silver pipes with matching paint on the wheels could look good too.
Tough choices.
The only thing I know for sure, is that with sidepipes, I will either have heat shields or fiberglass '69 covers. I don't want anyone getting burned.
Whether black, 'shiny', or grey it seems everyone tries to make the sidepipes compliment the wheels.
I like my Vector wheels as they are ( although they need to be freshened up ), but would consider painting, or polishing them to better match whatever sidepipe option I go with.
I like the black pipes with stainless shields or all stainless with my wheels as they are.
Grey or silver pipes with matching paint on the wheels could look good too.
Tough choices.
The only thing I know for sure, is that with sidepipes, I will either have heat shields or fiberglass '69 covers. I don't want anyone getting burned.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
With nothing - ~ 600*
with spiral - 367*
with RF - 167*
I've hit them (with my ankle) while wearing shorts on in the last situation - I didn't get burned - of course, your mileage may vary; but while they can be very hot, with muffler inserts the need for a cover becomes optional.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 129
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
Bear in mind that the 4" Hookers are the "performance" option out of the two since they are large diameter long-tube headers into a sewer pipe of an exhaust. And that this option is not compatible with the '69 covers.
The "factory" sidepipes leave a cast-iron manifold and uses a single pipe the whole way back. I guess there are some options here with 'shorty' headers, but this option would generally have a little bit more backpressure baggage with it. Although, it is more 'correct' than the Hooker route.
My limited understanding is that the Reverse Flow inserts are quietest, but are considerably more restrictive than the more 'open' options. That actually makes sense with Mr. SuperBuickGuy's informative measurements. The longer the exhaust gasses are "in transit" and interacting with obstructions, the cooler they are. Some folks, expecially with Big Block cars, have identified a marked DECREASE in performance with these particular inserts.
The "factory" sidepipes leave a cast-iron manifold and uses a single pipe the whole way back. I guess there are some options here with 'shorty' headers, but this option would generally have a little bit more backpressure baggage with it. Although, it is more 'correct' than the Hooker route.
My limited understanding is that the Reverse Flow inserts are quietest, but are considerably more restrictive than the more 'open' options. That actually makes sense with Mr. SuperBuickGuy's informative measurements. The longer the exhaust gasses are "in transit" and interacting with obstructions, the cooler they are. Some folks, expecially with Big Block cars, have identified a marked DECREASE in performance with these particular inserts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
Bear in mind that the 4" Hookers are the "performance" option out of the two since they are large diameter long-tube headers into a sewer pipe of an exhaust. And that this option is not compatible with the '69 covers.
The "factory" sidepipes leave a cast-iron manifold and uses a single pipe the whole way back. I guess there are some options here with 'shorty' headers, but this option would generally have a little bit more backpressure baggage with it. Although, it is more 'correct' than the Hooker route.
My limited understanding is that the Reverse Flow inserts are quietest, but are considerably more restrictive than the more 'open' options. That actually makes sense with Mr. SuperBuickGuy's informative measurements. The longer the exhaust gasses are "in transit" and interacting with obstructions, the cooler they are. Some folks, expecially with Big Block cars, have identified a marked DECREASE in performance with these particular inserts.
The "factory" sidepipes leave a cast-iron manifold and uses a single pipe the whole way back. I guess there are some options here with 'shorty' headers, but this option would generally have a little bit more backpressure baggage with it. Although, it is more 'correct' than the Hooker route.
My limited understanding is that the Reverse Flow inserts are quietest, but are considerably more restrictive than the more 'open' options. That actually makes sense with Mr. SuperBuickGuy's informative measurements. The longer the exhaust gasses are "in transit" and interacting with obstructions, the cooler they are. Some folks, expecially with Big Block cars, have identified a marked DECREASE in performance with these particular inserts.
I agree with all you said, this also helps - there is a 3/8" sealed airspace around the reverse flow mufflers - which means that the max flows would probably have the same kind of temperature decreases.
