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My 77 won't start. It has a new battery and I just put in a new starter. The odd thing is the lights work but the blower motor doesn't come on with the ignition switch. Can anyone give me some tests I can do to figure this out? What am I doing wrong? Thank you! Lisa
My 77 won't start. It has a new battery and I just put in a new starter. The odd thing is the lights work but the blower motor doesn't come on with the ignition switch. Can anyone give me some tests I can do to figure this out? What am I doing wrong? Thank you! Lisa
I think that we need more information. Does the car turn over and not fire? Does it have fuel? Have you checked for spark? I somehow suspect that the blower motor issue may not be related. Was it running well before the starting issue? How many miles on the car? If it seems to be turning over easier than it ever did and still won't start, it could even be a timing chain issue. Let us know what you find and good luck.
It won't turn over, no noise at all. Plenty of gas. It was working fine before. It has 64,000 original miles on it. Any idea what I can do to troubleshoot? I know a little about cars but mostly the basics. I know the blower motor wouldn't have much to do with it. I should be more clear. The ignition lights do not come on, the blower motor does not come on, the power windows will not work but the headlights will come on. I know it sounds like a weak battery but I just tested it and it is fine.
Last edited by 77Corvettegirl; Nov 11, 2012 at 04:53 PM.
Reason: add more to it
That is useful information. Check your battery connections. I suspect that is where the problem lies. Be sure that the cable ends are clean clean clean.
I should probably add, Be certain that the small wire connected to the solenoid on the starter is on the correct terminal if there are two of them. The terminal maked with an "S" is the correct one. The "R" terminal is not used on your car.
Battery terminals installed correct and tight the starter is installed correctly (I think). I will try to put up a picture of the starter it does have 4 wires (I'm counting double red as one) and not 3. Red double and positive power cable go to the large bolt and the purple goes to the s (nothing on the l) Black goes to the block. Correct?
i know you mentioned the battery connections are tight...but do you have a quik disconnect at the battery terminal? Those can also loosen up as I recently found out. Also check the battery cables for corrosion. Any bulging of the ground cable? Could indicate moisture.
I do not see why you would have had to do anything with a ground wire. There may be two power feeds for you car. That black could be the second one. Check that black wire, I assume that it has a large eye on the end, and see if it truly is a ground. At this point, I suspect that it may be a second power feed. Follow that wire to see where it goes. I am doing this from memory. That black wire that you took as a ground, it is a 10 ga wire? If it can be easily accomplished, I would disconnect that from where ever you hooked it and just lightly touch it to the large positive terminal on the starter. If it is a ground, it will certainly give a healthy spark. If it is a minimal spark, you will know the difference, it could be a supply to the elements that are not functioning now. good luck
Last edited by roadblock69; Nov 11, 2012 at 08:03 PM.
Reason: adding info
I put up some pictures hopefully you can see all you need to see from it. It's in my albums. Thank you for all the help. It's been down for a while and it needs driven.
No corrosion and I do not think I have a quick disconnect. I did have to replace the main ground wire about 4 years ago. It had corrosion throughout the cable. Maybe the positive has the same problem?
One thing that you could try would be to get a screwdriver or some connector between the S terminal and the power connection on the starter. That should run the starter. Use safe practice such as car in neutral or park if automatic.
I looked at the pictures and am unable to tell where the black wire is terminated. It does not look like a factory wire so it may indeed be a ground wire. The smaller wires connected to the large terminal on the solenoid are the wires that feed power to the the car. If the starter turns and you can not start from the ignition, it may be in the suppy wires to the fuse panel. I hope that this gives you a place to look. Al
It won't turn over... The ignition lights do not come on, the blower motor does not come on, the power windows will not work but the headlights will come on. I know it sounds like a weak battery but I just tested it and it is fine.
It sounds to me that the battery is connected correctly if the headlights come on. But from your other symptoms, I would look at the ignition switch circuit. "Ignition lights do not come on, blower motor won't come on and the windows don't work" - all these things only work when the ignition is on or on ACC. Something isn't right in that circuit.
Thanks for all the help! I found this information while looking for an ignition switch! Good to know! Hopefully it will be running tomorrow!
HINT: For Automatic Transmission Cars, If the engine will not crank with the car in park, push down the brake pedal and try cranking the engine with the car in neutral. If it starts, your ignition switch is good and most likely your neutral safety switch is bad. This test is bypassing the park position in the switch and now is using the little used neutral circuit. If in neutral the engine starts the neutral safety switch is probably bad. We have the widest selection of neutral safety and back-up switches in the industry to get you back on the road.
fusable link bad?
looks like a wire, but is really a fuse. they rot inside after a few decades
there's my bet. There are two wires with fuseable links right above the starter, when people remove the starter, sometimes they let the starter hang by the wire and it pulls one or both links apart. One runs the "always hot" circuit (like headlights) the other travels to the fuse box for the switched-power items.
whatever you do, if that is the problem, do not permanently bypass it, but solder in a new link. If one of those hot wires hit a manifold and there is no fuseable link, you will probably burn the car to the ground.
Fuseable link is easy to spot, you'll have to, large gauge, red wires coming from the big lug on the starter. About 3-4" above on those wires are two black large tubes that encase the wire... those are the fuseable links