purchased 74
Well from my other thread I ended up passing on the 75 as he went up in price on me so after some seaching, good or bad this is the beast same price he went to 4K
L48 with a manual trans 90 000 miles.
She had receipts for a lot of work in 98 to 2010 the highlights are
Frame reconditioned, looks like they did some upper frame work, trailing arms, some suspension work, some body mount work, calipers, brakes, new fuel tank and lines, and cleaned it up and coated. Does not appear to have had the body removed. It does look in decent shape.
Did the outter body, seals, and paint as well, and rebuilt the motor and clutch.
10 000 miles since the work.
In 2010 did the interior, could use a few spots in the rear cleaned up.
Now the bad.
The front and rear bumper covers have crumbled, I have bever seen them become so brittle so I have to replace.
Needs a headlight actuator replaced or rebuilt.
The fuel tank vent is disconnected and hanging at the back so i have to figure out how to get it back to the canister I hope the lines are there.
Any ideas?
Here are a few pictures if they work.





So now the work begins.
Mat
Maybe when your rear bumper is off, it will be easier to access the gas tank vent hose and separator. It can be reached through the deck vent on a convertible (with much contortions and cursing), but I don't know about a coupe.
Last edited by gcusmano74; Nov 18, 2012 at 09:14 AM.
The overflow for the fuel tank in the rear is how it came from the factory... Looks like you may just need a plastic tie strap or two, and a new rear bumper cover to fix... The actual tank vent comes out of the upper left side of the tank and as is the case in my '73, runs all the way up to the engine compartment to a charcoal canister...
You probably also need to pickup an Assembly Manual (AIM) and possibly a Shop Manual for your '74... These detail how everything went together at the factory, and show how basic Mx was accomplished... The AIM is essential IMHO...
Good little project, congrats on your '74...
Rogman
Last edited by rogman16; Nov 18, 2012 at 11:04 AM.
Not at all uncommon on the bumpers if they are originals. Here is the '75 I just bought with the same issues
:http://imgur.com/a/onAJ4
Get the Tru-Flex bumpers and you'll have the best overall luck.
Are you sure that the line dangling in the back is a vent line? Hard to see it good in the pic, but could it possibly be that someone routed the overflow line from the gas cap/lid area around the back?
Doh! Rogman beat me to it on the overflow line(faster typist?) but on my '75 the line goes out towards the front of the car, not the back.
Last edited by MidShark; Nov 18, 2012 at 11:13 AM.
That is a nice 75, a shame the bumpers go like that.
I will have a look around the tank, I have trouble believeing the shops she had all the work done at would not have ran the canister line so I am assuming it is the overflow.
I have it going in for a safety end of next week as they said the bumper covers are fine and all looks good but the W washer. It came with a piece of crap Haynes manual but it does not even show which wires are for the washer.
Any idea which are the feed as I figure I would start there?
Thanks for the help.
Mat
Is your goal to replace the bumpers without painting the rest of the car? Or, are you going to paint the rest of the car to blend and match the color and do any other possible body work?
Here is my pitch for truflex bumpers. First, I am not a professional or a perfectionist. However, these bumpers can be blended and fit to your car. I am not saying these are perfect lines or fit. I am just showing you what can be done by a layman.



The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
My intent since the car was painted when the rest was done I was going to have the bumpers done only. The body guy said he could blend it if he clears coat more than just the bumpers.
Mat
I've got the L48 with a manual trans as well. These are fun cars to drive! And for God's sake, keep it the original color, because you'll see a million red 'Vettes (hell, I own one, a Torch Red 95' C4), but you sure won't see the Dark Brown very often and it sure looks good in the sun, with that warm metallic gleam running down the sides.
Apparantly when she had the body done they used the 75 paint code as it was a nicer brown?
Does anyone know when installing the covers if there is a isolator btween where the cover bolts on or does it just bolt up to the other body panel?
Also better to paint before or after install, I assume after to mate it up right?
Mat
Apparantly when she had the body done they used the 75 paint code as it was a nicer brown?
Does anyone know when installing the covers if there is a isolator btween where the cover bolts on or does it just bolt up to the other body panel?
Also better to paint before or after install, I assume after to mate it up right?
Mat
Paint is always the last thing you do. You'd be amazed at how much incidental damage that can be inflicted on a vehicle in progress, even if you're super careful.
The 75' is actually a slightly different color. More 'bronzish' than brown if I'm not mistaken.
This is mine on the trailer. Note the late C3 tail. Some people like the stock 'slope' tail, but I like the little flip spoiler!
When we were discussing colors for mine, I could have gone white (as per trim tag) yellow (my son's favorite), mille miglia red (for resale value, and my daughter's favorite), or brown (my wife's favorite). But since the car came with new medium saddle door panels and seat covers, instead of the silver vinyl it left the factory with, that ruled white out. But that brown was very tempting! As you can see, ended up going with red. Resale red!


















