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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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Default 1976 corvette floor panels

Im new to this forum but i decided to start working on my 76 vette and it needs quit a bit of work. The first thing i wanted to do was I need to replace my floor panels and was wondering has anyone done that on here. If so any pointers or tips like how easy/hard it is. Or any videos i can watch to see how its done. Is it worth having someone else do it? If so anyone know of anyone in the metro detroit area? Thank you
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 11:31 AM
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Have your replacement pans on hand before you begin removing the old.

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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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okay thank you,

Do you know if theres any videos online of this being done. I tried looking on youtube but couldn't find anything. Or maybe some other posts that could be helpful Im pretty new to this
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by J0hnnyG
okay thank you,

Do you know if theres any videos online of this being done. I tried looking on youtube but couldn't find anything. Or maybe some other posts that could be helpful Im pretty new to this

Found a couple using the advanced search function at the top of the page:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...r-channel.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...n-install.html
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 10:59 PM
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There are two versions of the floor pans.. Imported and US made. I've installed them both and really.. They are both about as easy to install.

My niece got a case of the big britches and bought a 76 without telling me... And low and behold last summer I found myself installing floor pans.

I installed the imported version in her car since she is limited on budget. If you want to email me a phone number I’d be happy to give you a ring and tell you what you can expect.

Support@Willcoxcorvette.com

Pans can be found at this link:
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...ds=floor%20pan
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:18 AM
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Cut a little at a time, test fit often, and leave as much of the original metal as possible. It will be painfull to cut into your new expensive replacement floorpans, but they will fit better if you don't cut out the old pans all the way to the rocker channels. I wish I would have had the choice.
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 09:56 PM
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Nice job.. One thing is you must make sure the clearance between the cross member and the floor remains the same.. and that the seat nuts at the right height.

When we do these we remove the rusted metal and then work the new floor board in place over top of it. Doing this involves pushing the sides in a bit but what it will allow you to do is mark it from the bottom side (if you have a lift). We then trim off the excess leaving about 1" additional for errors, trim to fit and then butt weld it in place (not easy and time consuming). Overlap welding seems to be the method of choice and is a bit easier.

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 4, 2012 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Willcox - is there any noticeable difference between the two pans? I'll also be tackling this job in the very near future (hopefully get my new welder in the next week or two)
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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Thank you guys for all the reply this was all very helpful especially the links and pictures im gonna try it within the next few weeks ill be sure to post before and after pics.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Nice job.. One thing is you must make sure the clearance between the cross member and the floor remains the same.. and that the seat nuts at the right height.

When we do these we remove the rusted metal and then work the new floor board in place over top of it. Doing this involves pushing the sides in a bit but what it will allow you to do is mark it from the bottom side (if you have a lift). We then trim off the excess leaving about 1" additional for errors, trim to fit and then butt weld it in place (not easy and time consuming). Overlap welding seems to be the method of choice and is a bit easier.
Is there any tricks on how to make sure the seat nuts at the right height and the clearance between the cross member and floor?
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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I used a piece of masking tape on the tunnel and behind the seat as a reference. Put it above what you plan to cut out. Make multiple measurements from the tape to the floorpan and record your results. When you test fit the new pan, measure to make sure it's at the same depth. I measured, and then used sheet metal screws to hold the pan into place, moved down to my next measurment and repeated. The pan will have a lot of flex, so it a little persuasion will be in order. Rubber mallet works well. I bolted a piece of angle iron in the front seat bolts to keep the pan from twisiting as I fitted it.
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