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I have a question for you painters out there. I painted a lot of cars twenty years ago, but now I am going to go the base coat, clear coat route.
My question is, after I have sprayed the sealer, then I have put down the base coats, and I end up with something in the paint. I am talking about something bigger than a razor blade edge would fix.
What I am getting at is sanding at this stage. Can I sand? If so, wet or dry? What grit paper? Bigger than that, when should I do it and what needs to be done before clear coat.
Do I need to lay another layer of base down? It is a solid color (red).
I guess if you could talk me through that whole process of having some dust in the base coat, how would I fix it.
I figure it better to ask now than when I am standing there with the clear mixed and I see some dirt in the paint.
not a problem, just let the base dry then wetsand with 800. i use 3m p800 or sometimes p600. i wouldn't go courser than 600. the finer the better. than spray some color over the sanded area and after it dries your ready for clear.
not a problem, just let the base dry then wetsand with 800. i use 3m p800 or sometimes p600. i wouldn't go courser than 600. the finer the better. than spray some color over the sanded area and after it dries your ready for clear.
Really? It's that easy? I'm going to be painting some items like a hood and going to do the BC, CC and L84 asked the question first. So thats all I have to do.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
yes i forgot to ask......my advise is for solvent base.
if you can sand the imperfections out with 1000 grit that would be best.
My advice is for water based. That is all we use in Canada now due to VOC regulations, and the stuff is great. My boss has sprayed hundreds upon hundreds of vehicles with the solvent based paints back in the day, and now he sprays with the water based paints. He said he wished they had the water based paints back when he was pumping tons of vehicles through a shop.
To each his own...you can get great results with either. If you get dust in waterbase you do not wetsand it. you dry sand the spot with 600 and the rest of the procedure is just like solvent based products.
Last edited by stinger12; Dec 24, 2012 at 09:39 PM.
My advice is for water based. That is all we use in Canada now due to VOC regulations, and the stuff is great. My boss has sprayed hundreds upon hundreds of vehicles with the solvent based paints back in the day, and now he sprays with the water based paints. He said he wished they had the water based paints back when he was pumping tons of vehicles through a shop.
To each his own...you can get great results with either. If you get dust in waterbase you do not wetsand it. you dry sand the spot with 600 and the rest of the procedure is just like solvent based products.
How easy is it to spray water base at home. I don't see how it will work in a garage setting.
Last edited by 540 vette; Dec 25, 2012 at 03:47 AM.
Be carful going to fine when sanding. The paint may not stich if the paper is to fine. I had that problem on my 99 hood. On a solid color I have used 400 to rough it up before you recoat it. On metallics and others go with the finer. I have been painting for 40 years.
How easy is it to spray water base at home. I don't see how it will work in a garage setting.
Come to think of it you are right. The stuff only dries with air movement! So you are correct, spraying it in a garage would be a disaster. It is some amazing stuff though, the clear coat is still solvent based like the rest of the solvent based systems.