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a lot depends on where the rust is, how close is any paint, etc...they also have products that will convert the rust back to paint-able metal. if you could post how much you're trying to cure , you could get better info.
hope this helps
As stated, the commercial rust converters use phosphoric acid or an equivalent, but they also incorporate some sort of coating agent. I use a product called "One-Step" which is 35% vinyl acrylic resin. Put on one coat and you can paint right over it and be done, or you can apply mutliple coats and sand it before painting. I hardly use my blast cabinet anymore, because even with priming and painting over the bare metal, I find rust tends to come back whereas with the One Step it just doesn't. Chassis Black and Cast Blast are my preferred topcoats; you can do just about everything on a Vette with those two paints...
Although never actually used the stuff myself, there's Armor's Metal Rescue, that looks pretty good. One of the weekend car TV shows demo'd the stuff, and looks to be pretty good. Check the Metal Rescue website, as has the video.
a lot depends on where the rust is, how close is any paint, etc...they also have products that will convert the rust back to paint-able metal. if you could post how much you're trying to cure , you could get better info.
hope this helps
Hi, The part is the A arm. After sandblasting it there is still a little rust here and there. So as not to go crazy trying to get every little bit of rust off using the blaster I was thinking of a secondary operation to dip it into a bath of some kind of deslover to finish it off before painting.
Me too, that thing is incredibly powerfull and it's acid free.
It uses a process called chelating, don't touch the unrusted metal.
Basically it's the hotrodder molasse method on steroid.
For small complicated and delicate parts, there is no match.