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I understand that it wont effect it directly but what I mean is a very rich engine produces carbon build up, could it have excess carbon build up on the valves/valve seats hindering the valve to close with a good seal, thus making the needle shake?
This issue more or less started from the beginning, after the rebuild- Correct?
I doubt that it would be carbon build-up with the short run time you've had on this engine so far.
also, wondering...assuming you are running a holley? if so did you preset the transfer slots?
I don't even know what that is :-/ yes I have a Holley 600
I have had the low vac since I had it and tried to sort the glowing header.
But the needle shake seems to have happened since I put the reverse flows on and rejected it
I do not think this is related to your issue, however it would help make it run better, help with mixture and only takes about a half hour to do typically.
I do think your issue is cam/ignition/valve timing related. Do a search and you can find articles with pictures regarding the transfer slots.
I don't even know what that is :-/ yes I have a Holley 600
I have had the low vac since I had it and tried to sort the glowing header.
But the needle shake seems to have happened since I put the reverse flows on and rejected it
Would it be worth having an engine oil analysis done? IOW, would a wiped lobe(s) be enough extra material to show up in an oil analysis? (I'm betting it would, FWIW).
Assuming Brady has not changed the oil, in this process, that is--can't remember.
So i checked my valve lash again, and the were all ok. When i tightened down one nut it didnt seem to resist much compared to the rest of them..... would that indicate a weak spring? (they are new springs)
Originally Posted by 540 vette
When the guy rebuilt the engine he may have put the cam in 4 degrees retarded or advanced.
If you don´t get rid of the problem with the adjustments you have made, you are going to have to tear it apart.
4* advanced
Originally Posted by fishslayer143
Brady, pull those pipes and see if it clears up
I will give it a go tomorrow if i have time
Originally Posted by Mid-Years Forever!
Would it be worth having an engine oil analysis done? IOW, would a wiped lobe(s) be enough extra material to show up in an oil analysis? (I'm betting it would, FWIW).
Assuming Brady has not changed the oil, in this process, that is--can't remember.
I can give that a go also, should i drain all the oil, or should the drsin plug have any metal stuck to it?
Originally Posted by BOSTONCAMARO
I do not think this is related to your issue, however it would help make it run better, help with mixture and only takes about a half hour to do typically.
I do think your issue is cam/ignition/valve timing related. Do a search and you can find articles with pictures regarding the transfer slots.
I runs ok, i can do those once i figure out the low vac and shaking needle.
When you adjust the valves, are you doing it with the engine running (hydraulic I assume)?
If the engine is running, do you have the vacuum gauge attached so you can see how it behaves as you're adjusting?
When you adjust the valves, are you doing it with the engine running (hydraulic I assume)?
If the engine is running, do you have the vacuum gauge attached so you can see how it behaves as you're adjusting?
Yup, running and hydraulics.
Nothing happened to reading when i backed off 1 at a time till it was tapping (re-tightened before moving onto the next)
I think I read where the shaking vac needle started after
you jetted?
so, how about the power spring?
could it now be bouncing the rods and causing the fluctuations?
you say 10inch of vac?
might consider a different spring.
I think I read where the shaking vac needle started after
you jetted?
so, how about the power spring?
could it now be bouncing the rods and causing the fluctuations?
you say 10inch of vac?
might consider a different spring.
You mean the power valve... i believe it has a #6.5
I know for sure im running too rich