Control arm safe removal?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 696
Likes: 193
From: USA
Control arm safe removal?
I'm doing a frame off resto. The body is off the frame and most of the suspension components are off. I'm about to take the control arms off and wanted to know if you guys have any advice on how to safely remove them. I'm assuming when the top ball joint is popped the a arm will fly up and the spring will fly out. Not good. I'm guessing an inside spring compressor will do the trick? I'm open to other suggestions?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
You can cheaply build yourself a spring compressor from 3/4" all-thread, 4" pipe flanges, and a couple of 3/4" nuts. Place the all-thread through the control arms and spring, put a flange on top of the top control arm and on the bottom of the bottom control arm, and thread on the nuts. Compress slightly, pop the ball joint, and SLOWLY loosen your spring compressor.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 696
Likes: 193
From: USA
Thanks
Thanks it looks like a 1/2inch to 5/8 rod would fit in the upper shock tower hole. I'm assuming that's where the rod would go. I'm guessing I could use some 3/8 x5 flat bar (with a 3/4 hole) on the top and bottom instead of 4" pipe flanges? Big question is will the upper control arms still move up, since they are hinged in front of the upper shock tower hole? Maybe not since the rods holding the spring.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
Remove the nut from the ball joint then put it back on so that the upper control arm doesn't spring up when the ball joint pops. You must remove the nut completely from the ball joint before you pop the joint or you will not get it off.
Once the joint has been popped, there won't be any pressure on the upper control arm. I would do that to both ball joints before inserting the rod to compress the spring. The pressure from the spring will help pop the joints.
Once the joint has been popped, there won't be any pressure on the upper control arm. I would do that to both ball joints before inserting the rod to compress the spring. The pressure from the spring will help pop the joints.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Thanks it looks like a 1/2inch to 5/8 rod would fit in the upper shock tower hole. I'm assuming that's where the rod would go. I'm guessing I could use some 3/8 x5 flat bar (with a 3/4 hole) on the top and bottom instead of 4" pipe flanges? Big question is will the upper control arms still move up, since they are hinged in front of the upper shock tower hole? Maybe not since the rods holding the spring.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 911
Likes: 47
From: Kansas City MO
Good advice mentioned above. I did the same thing. Purchased the spring compressor as shown from Advance Auto (I think). Basically, you get a threaded rod, and 2 sets of hooks/claws (one set is threaded and the other is not). From there, I removed the non-threaded hooks, and inserted the bare rod from the top through the shock mount hole and down through the center of the spring. I then got the spring in place and wiggled/screwed the threaded hooks through the bottom of the spring to about the 2nd row of coils (you can barely see in photo). From there, I basically used a wrench at the top of the threaded rod and turned several times to start compressing the spring and pulling it into the pocket of the frame. Doing this myself was a bit tricky considering there was no weight on the frame. I used a jack under the bottom of the lower control arm to support it while bolting on the spindle to the upper and lower control arms/ball joints. The first side was kinda challenging, but once I figured out my process, the other side took about half the time!
To get your old springs out, just follow these steps in reverse order. No sweat! LOL~
Good luck!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 4
From: Regina Saskatchewan
I just went through this. After 40 some years its probably time to replace the spring anyway. Fastest and safest way is to torch out the old and replace it with a new. Springs cost me $80 for both.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
Is the motor still in the car? If so, I would skip the spring compressor, at least for a small block car. Just loosen the ball joint nuts without removing them, then let the spring help you when you pop the ball joints. Use a trolley jack to take the tension off the spring by jacking under the lower a-arm. Remove the ball joint nuts, remove the spindle, and ssslowly lower the trolley jack until the tension is off the spring. If you're worried about the spring flying out, you can hold it in place with a bar clamp, like this:
This method (with the bar clamp) also makes re-installation a whole lot easier. My 2c.
This method (with the bar clamp) also makes re-installation a whole lot easier. My 2c.