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I need to change the diff gasket (leaking), but looking at things it looks like it's going to be a real PITA to get to the bolts on top of the diff crossmember, is there any tricks to it? Thanks for any and all tips
You will need to drop the crossmember to get to the bolts you are talking about on the rear cover. I have done it a few times and found the easiest way is to loosen the crossmember bolts and use a two jaw gear puller on the crossmember. Pull it down and let your bolts catch it. Maybe use a couple of donor bolts. If that crossmember has never been down, it will be nearly fused to those bushings. I tried pry bars of all sizes and mine wouldn't come down for anything. The puller popped it right off. Maybe not the ideal way to do it but it works.
Soak the "sombreros" starting today to help separate.
Long extension with "wobbler" end to get at the driveshaft u-joint
Careful of the plastic vent tube on the top. If you do remove it, remember to put it back BEFORE bolting the crossemmber back on (do not ask how I know)
You will need to drop the crossmember to get to the bolts you are talking about on the rear cover. I have done it a few times and found the easiest way is to loosen the crossmember bolts and use a two jaw gear puller on the crossmember. Pull it down and let your bolts catch it. Maybe use a couple of donor bolts. If that crossmember has never been down, it will be nearly fused to those bushings. I tried pry bars of all sizes and mine wouldn't come down for anything. The puller popped it right off. Maybe not the ideal way to do it but it works.
Bill
Exactly how I did it after soaking in PB and Kroil for a week.
The crossmember has been recently taken off so I don't think that should be a problem, just a pain in the butt to have to do to change/put on a diff gasket!
So having both is ok? I can buy the oil without but if buying the one that says limited slip and adding the conditioner for insurance is best then that's the route I will take...