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Front bumper bolt twisted off, 7/16". Rusted in good and have been soaking in PB blaster. Despite squaring the twisted metal to a flat surface, I still managed to miss dead center with the drill but I think that part will be OK.
Questions: Is this extractor going to to the job? I've seen newer ones with a finer thread.
If I use heat on it am I going to damage the chrome?
Odds of sucess without bending the bumper in the vice?
Forget that extractor. If it breaks on you, your screwed. Use a smaller bit and work your pilot hole closer to center. Then us progressive larger bits till you get to the hole size for the 7/16-14 tap. Get a tap and re thread the nut inside the bracket.
Forget that extractor. If it breaks on you, your screwed. Use a smaller bit and work your pilot hole closer to center. Then us progressive larger bits till you get to the hole size for the 7/16-14 tap. Get a tap and re thread the nut inside the bracket.
From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
I have the same set as Paul, they work well. Another option if you have a MIG welder is to take a nut the will slip over the bolt and weld the center, the heat will help break it free
Forget that extractor. If it breaks on you, your screwed. Use a smaller bit and work your pilot hole closer to center. Then us progressive larger bits till you get to the hole size for the 7/16-14 tap. Get a tap and re thread the nut inside the bracket.
That is my fear. I tried reaming a twisted bolt on my front sway bar bracket with poor results. Of course I was working upside down on my back....Fortunately, at that location I could just use a nut to fix it. Here the nut is concealed. If I bungle it, I'm really screwed. I've got a teeny carbide dremel tip that could get the hole recentered.
Originally Posted by paul 74
I get migraines from easy-outs. You have no real leverage and that bit can snap.
Sidepiper has a good suggestion. Or you might be able to grab it with a bolt extractor (these from Sears).
Now that looks like the place to start. I've got a full 9/16" of bolt sticking out. Any chance I split the bolt extractor? I'll probably bend the bumper before that happens, though.
Thanks for the ideas, always willing to hear more. I got other commitments the afternoon, so I won't back on this for a while.
Must be something I am not seeing. Can you get hold of it with vice grips and gently work it back and forth until it will turn????
Already partially rounded off the threads with vice grips. Note the shine on the threads toward the camera. Assuming I could get vise grips to grip that tight, I'd need vice grips with a cheater pipe to get enough torque.
Heat it up using a small brazing tip and keep the heat to the base of the bolt, chances are the chrome will be ok as long as you don't over do the heat. If the chrome does turn blue it can be polished out, like you do with chrome headers. Heat and vies grips should work, done it lots of times
Those extractors are hardened steel. They will not bend/break. And you have the leverage of a ratchet handle with socket or even a breaker bar with socket on them. I would do the wax trick before you start.
Is this extractor going to to the job? I've seen newer ones with a finer thread.
Those things NEVER work on a rusted bolt. Think about it. You break a bolt so you drill a hole in it and try to twist it out with something that is half the diameter of the original bolt you broke.
If you somehow manage to snap a brand new bolt then they will work.
Those things NEVER work on a rusted bolt. Think about it. You break a bolt so you drill a hole in it and try to twist it out with something that is half the diameter of the original bolt you broke.
If you somehow manage to snap a brand new bolt then they will work.
At least that's been my experiece.
I have broken easy outs before. Then the hole is plugged up and you won't be able to drill it out. I believe it will break long before you break the bolt loose. Wire brush the vice grip jaws to make sure they are clean (fairly new is good)
How about grinding it down flat to the surface, then use several drill bits to drill it out to the correct diameter so the weld nut can be retapped. (If all else fails)
Forget that extractor. If it breaks on you, your screwed. Use a smaller bit and work your pilot hole closer to center. Then us progressive larger bits till you get to the hole size for the 7/16-14 tap. Get a tap and re thread the nut inside the bracket.
Kroil works better than PB Blaster in my experience also...
I have always heard that Kroil is the best penetrant but I have never seen it in any of the common auto parts stores. I have used PB Blaster successfully many times but you have to be a little patient. Spray the bolt before you leave for work, spray it again when you get home. Repeat for a few days. Clamp your Vice Grips on the bolt and try to get it to move a tiny bit. Once the bolt moves even a hair you know you are going to win. Keep wiggling the bolt back and forth without applying too much pressure and keep spraying the PB Blaster. The bolt will gradually move more and more until you can thread it out.
I have drilled out bolts successfully also but I only do that when I can't get a vice grip on the broken piece. It's very difficult to get a drill bit in the center of an uneven surface and if the bolt is a grade 8 it takes a long time to drill it out.