Hey forum! My '78 L-82 has a tired replacement small block currently. It is developing a knock so I started doing research on engine options. I have settled on a 383 Custom Built Stroker. This custom package will include a fully built 383 Stroker bored 40 Over, w/Utec Pistons, 280 Comp Cam (525 Lift), ARP Bolts and Rods, Dart Aluminum Cylinder Heads, Elderbrock Intake, and a Holly Carburator. It is a good engine, by reputable mechanics at a good price.

However, this is not why I wrote this thread. From those who have done this before, can you tell me the "gotcha's" that you did not consider when completing this that cost extra money or time?

For example, the vacum system? Does that need to be replaced or can I utilize it. Looking forward to hearing you advice! Thanks!

 

Oh no....."while I'm at it" before he even starts !

 

hmmm an frame off-engine r&r.... happens all the time

****ling detail - a .040 over block is a 385 (377 stock, 383 - .030)

but to answer your question, if it works, why change it? Or, put another way, in what year would you like to drive your car again? 2016? 2020? 2023? perhaps never again?

a hateful thing about forums, unintended, but hateful, is there are people who can do a frame-off resto in a year.... it's hateful because when you attempt it, it takes a year to get the car apart, and 2 to get it back together.... 5 to complete it. There are cars on here where it's taken 7 or more years to complete what was a simple "screw it together".... (e.g. "Rookie's First Restoration" - the guy is doing awesome work, but it was supposed to be a quick throw together so he could drive it at graduation... car still isn't done, and it's been 7(IIRC) years).

I know that sounds harsh (it's not meant to be), but if you're asking about changing vacuum hoses - I'm presuming you've not done many swaps (in short, you don't do it for a living). Thus what you're proposing will unintendedly cascade into a full frame up restoration... problem is you won't start as such - so there are great odds against you ever completing it.

Hopefully, you take those words and say "ah, I will not allow project creep" and will enjoy your new motor and old vacuum hoses this summer

 

Ok, well... you know what they say... enough money can get anything done. However, maybe I should rephrase my request.

I am relatively new to the Classic Corvette Scene (~2+ years) and I am relatively handy. Well at least to get into trouble. I have done a interior restore on my own and I am replacing the engine due to a small, but ever increasing knock.

Here is where the tricky part comes in. I cannot do a full body (frame-up) restore. The reasons are two fold, 1) I dont have the skill (yet ) and 2) I live in a condo building in ATL so there is no space (think I might have the HOA yelling at me). As a result I had to have mechanics do the tinkering with 80% of the engine work.

What I am trying to figure out is any gotchas for several reasons, but one to set my expectations on the scope creep. People who work and get paid by the hour make sure there is job security. So, I want to make sure that have their targets set in the right direction. Make sense?

<long story short>
On that note, are there any additional gotcha's in your experience that might ad a TON of extra $ and time?

 

I would pull the engine, clean up the engine bay, look for anything that is clearly bad (hoses split in half etc)...and drop the 383 on in there..!

Maybe do control arm bushings - if needed.....much easier with the engine out.

 

Yep, 'while you're there'....! Regarding the vacuum system, check the vacuum hoses in the engine compartment and if they're still soft and pliable, leave them alone. Now, if they're brittle and hard, have numerous small cracks, etc, it's way easier to change them out if the engine and hood are not in and on the car!

Front suspension is also a lot easier with the engine and radiator out of the car too. Get the control arm bushings and ball joints replaced and then while you're at it, you might as well clean up the engine compartment and repaint the frame rails, control arms, fenderwells and firewall. Aluminum foil is great for masking off the brake lines.

Finally, go ahead and check the condition of your power steering hoses. This is another 'easy while the engine is out' project. I know, because I did all this, this week! Really, it's not that tough. You don't want to drop a nice, clean engine in a dirty engine bay, now, do you? None of this costs a whole lot and it's really just time and labor and worth doing.

 

You beat me to it!

 

HA I am in the "while I am at it boat" right now. Started as the same thing, replace old worn out motor with a new 383. So far have, replaced body bushings, replaced entire rear suspension, wire brush and repaint entire frame, transmission getting rebuilt as I type, replace everything attached to motor, clean and repaint entire under side of car, and the list goes on.... Started in November looking to hopefully be done end of next month. I will do up a whole writeup once I am done. And plenty of pics.

 

I'll say it again... only replace what needs to be replaced. If the mechanic find's something that should be looked at (cracked control arm bushings, for example); study up on what you want to do (there are options), but finish the current project.

But even vacuum hoses, are easy to replace when the motor is in the car. That said, good mechanics will tell you if they're bad or not - bad mechanics will put it back together and the car will never run right because of all the vacuum leaks.

Kickdown cables, are not nor are transmission lines. Wiring to the starter is hard to replace, and get pretty beat up over the years.

 

To the OP: congrats on the new motor. With good planning, you should enjoy that rascal soon enough.

Depending on how you intend to use the car, would help to address the areas needing attention. Like many of us, are you on a budget or cash flow is not an issue (remember, different strokes for different folks).

If it's a show car, there are systems that can be made to look operational but you wouldn't want to actually depend on them again, without proper maintenance.

How much mileage is on the suspension? Fresh power does tend to find the weakest link back to the rear tires.

If you unleash that 383 in a fire burnout and the tires hook, what condition is the steering? Can you drift the car without contacting fixed objects, things like trees and ditches. See where I'm going?

Make it safe for you, especially if you're back out on the highway.

Vacuum system was spoken to. You'll have lots of new go but how about stopping?

What condition is the underhood wiring harness and associated connectors? Are there orphan wires dangling now and what were their intended jobs when the car was new?

Sprucing up the engine bay takes some time and gives a chance to inspect a lot.

Since you're paying an hourly rate, you want a good return on the money. We get that but these cars are like any other that's used. Parts and subsystems wear and need maintenance. Look for the stuff that you need, depending on your intended usage.

Keep us posted and bring pictures; they tell a lot and if you have questions, we can help identify something you may overlook.

Like I said, be safe and welcome to the club. Good luck.

 

Alright! Another 78 L82 in the area