I have myself totally convinced that I am still sane even though I took on a project such as this. I want to thank all those brave souls that woke up one day and decided to pull the motor from their F-body and gently cram it in the C3. Internet info on this matter is awesome.

So I thought would share some pics and hope to get some tips along the way.

Donor car:
It's kind of sad but it's a near mint condition 2001 Firebird Formula with a t56. Right at 100k miles though. After doing a little research I found that there were only 300 or so made that year. That means nothing now but maybe it will in 30 yrs. I decided against the LS1 and bought a new LS3 block, heads and the new Holley intake. I will still use the LS1 computer though. I haven't decided if I will use the same crank from the LS1 or buy a forged crank with a 24 tooth reluctor wheel. My plan is to build simple 500 HP motor. Which is easily done with these LS3's with just a cam. I have a 2010 Camaro that is just over 600 at the wheels with a cam, victory Jr intake and a 100 shot.

My project:
1980 C3. Why a 1980??? Because ((I)) think they are awesome. I bought it a few months ago from a snake in the grass for 3500. Its a 4 speed car, sbc, small cam blah blah blah. He was against me pulling the kick panels for inspection but insisted he was in there a year ago and it was solid. No visible signs of rust on the hinge pillar or around the lower windshield. No fat gaps etc... I asked about the frame and again he said it was solid. So going against my gut feeling I bought it.

I drove it home fearing for my life once I hit highway speeds. You can see where this is going. Once I got it up on the lift the floors were gone, the frame had a 12" plate patch that looked like a blind welder did the work and worst of all when I pulled the kick panels it took every bit of strength I had to keep from going back and ripping this guys head off. I knew better before I handed over the cash but did so anyhow.

So I bought another driver with less than 200 miles on a new engine.

I thought long before I decide to continue so instead of ripping the second car apart I came across a 1980 frame that I got for a few hundred and had it powder coated. I decided to just move reconditioned or new parts over to the frame. I don't want to get to far ahead of myself and find out later something in is the wrong spot... like the motor!! So if you have been here and have any great warnings or suggestions please let me know.

 

nice

 

Very cool. You're just ahead of me with your work. I have a rolling chassis; should have the drive train in this summer with the body going back on later in the winter. Love the aftermarket A-Arms.

I agree with you, the 80's are the best looking of the C3's.

 

I still have the original vette I bought with no body on it that I think I will be using for the rest of the suspension. The black one in the picture is the second one I bought that I am using the body from. I am usually an impatient person and I need to see progress daily but, I am learning to slow down and get stuff done right the first time. Hopefully!!

 

horrible cars, horrible shop....

not really!!!! looks sick, especially the 67 Camaro! (guessing 67 as no market lights in quarters)

 

The shop is my second home. I built it this past winter. Been building race cars in a 3 car garage for years and got tired of tripping over parts. The camaro is a 68. I removed the marker lights when I stretched the wheel well opening for those slicks. Its an all tube chassis car I've been building for the last couple of years.

 

My dad has a Gasser-esque...street machine style 68 almost done, sick machine...I have a 67 302 13 to 1 Brodix Track 1's 6 speed etc etc

 

Unfortunately this Camaro will never see the streets. I love drag racing and this is the direction this one is going. I currently have 3rd gen trans am that runs 8.90's that I bracket race. I was building the Camaro to run Super street in NHRA but I am tired of forking over money to them. I only keep my competition license current so I don't get kicked off the track for going that fast. I am now kicking myself for removing the firewall and going all tube. It would have been a nice pro street. Post up some pics of your 67.

 

The LS3 fits nicely but there is a lot of little issues that you need to deal with. Mine has come to a halt due to some life circumstances but it does run. Mine should be in the 500+ HP range wit ha cam tune and headers.

 

Looks awesome and 80's Rule!

 

I have other big horse power cars. I just want a nice car to drive to car shows and what have you. Off the top of your head what issues did you run into? I know there will be a lot. I have HP tuners so getting into the computer is not an issue. I will probably have my wire harness built. I like to think there is nothing that I cant do but when it comes to wiring I'd rather let the pro's build me one. I am mostly concerned with fitment right now. Exhaust is no longer a concern as you can see in the pics. I pulled the t56 out the firebird Sat so it will get cleaned up and bolted to the engine so I can build the cross member. Thats another nice thing about the 80's.... removable cross member.

 

I can't tell if you have the motor adapter plates and mounts installed. The engine looks like it's sitting a little farther back than normal. There are adapter plates available now that allow you to choose between 1" forward, stock location, or 1" back. Now that I look back on my own pics it looks pretty much the same as mine.



Did you fab the exhaust at the flanges? Others have used side exhaust but had to do some serious cutting on Hookers to adapt them to the LS engines.



Rick B.

 

this is gonna be awesome

 

Looking forward to following along. Your shop is beast.....

 

I bought 2 different motor mount plates. One from ebay stating that they were the correct ones for putting the t56 shifter in stock location. Once I put those on there was no way the headers would clear the power steering gear box or the motor mount tab on the frame. The second set I bought from Summit. TRD I believe. If I use the A arm bolt closest to number 1 piston and measure from there to the back of the block it measured 21" with with the ebay kit and 23" with the TRD kit. I have the motor still on the frame of the first vette I bought and it measures 22" So I guess I am 1" back. 1" forward will not work for me at all.

If you notice I put on the borgeson steering box. Im not fighting leaking cylinders.

 

I noticed the Borgeson steering box. I have a Jeep box with adapters that I'm planning on installing this year.

The T56 shifter isn't going to line up with the stock console no matter where you place the engine. Unless you plan to build a custom center console you need to fab an offset for the shifter. I have the factory Hurst shifter for the T56 and it has a really small shift pattern. I don't doubt that you can handle something like this:







Rick B.

 

Here's what I did with my custom shifter.

 

Nice powerplant, are you sure you want to do it on a c3? Lots of c1s/2s out there

 

He's probably sure at this point.

 

Thanks for the pics Rick. My t56 also has the factory Hurst shifter. The shifter you made looks good. I will probably mock your setup.