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According to console it's a 400hp, 460 ft-lbs car. Owner said non original color. Has power windows. I will have to take another look to see body plate. Didn't get bonnet open. It's in a very small garage. Anywhere I can input VIN to get options printout? Anywhere to download owners manual?
The VIN does not contain information about options, and GM does not have records for individual cars prior to 1977 (GM Canada does for cars delivered there, I think, but not USA cars).
You can find factory documentation at the GM Heritage Center Website; they have document kits for each year in their archives, which might provide you the answers you need:
Hi s76,
There's nothing wrong with a 454 out of a truck, but that fact would affect what Brian might offer for this car.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks, Alan. My 68 convert has a 4 bolt 454 out of a truck, modified with aftermarket cam, intake, carb and headers. It will never be a valuable show car, but having a high torque engine that will run on regular gas has its advantages.
According to console it's a 400hp, 460 ft-lbs car. Owner said non original color. Has power windows. I will have to take another look to see body plate. Didn't get bonnet open. It's in a very small garage. Anywhere I can input VIN to get options printout? Anywhere to download owners manual?
Also noticed that tach red-lines at 5300 RPM which indicates a 350 engine. Console sticker indicates 427 (L-68). Could it be normal to have the tach changed out (did they fail) or wrong one installed during building if right one wasn't available? (like 4-bolt vs 2-bolt blocks) Sticker is on console is old and worn -looks authentic. I know I need to see engine numbers and stamps but besides that what else can I look for to confirm that that the 427 is or is not original? Different sway bars etc..? I was told it has a 3.55 rear end.
Interior at some point had another material stuck (glued) all over everything so its trashed or will take a lot of time to get glue off.
Body and bumpers are in good shape. One old repair showing over rear passenger side wheel. (told it was from a tire blow out) Rest of body is clean. I was told car is not original color so have to try and get to see trim plate.
Has power windows, no A/C, vinyl roof in good shape. Some controls and buttons that I don't know what they do? Anywhere I can find this out?
Those console emblems were fun to swap around, I have seen a lot of sb cars with high hp bb decals....a purist would have to chime in but I believe the factory was pretty good about installing the correct tach, but who know what someone did along the way, cable driven tachs hold up pretty well,
look at the u joints to see if they are bb or sb and sway bars and sizes but they are just another clue, pop the hood and see....
Those console emblems were fun to swap around, I have seen a lot of sb cars with high hp bb decals....a purist would have to chime in but I believe the factory was pretty good about installing the correct tach, but who know what someone did along the way, cable driven tachs hold up pretty well,
look at the u joints to see if they are bb or sb and sway bars and sizes but they are just another clue, pop the hood and see....
Can't get to pop the hood yet. I know its a big block - I've seen pics. I may only get one more chance to look. If I find a numbers matching big block I need to know what else to look for to try and ensure its not fake. Sway bars, U-joints, anything else? I figure if its real the car is worth the time and money to restore it right. If its not real I'll hold out till I find one. Thanks!
Can't get to pop the hood yet. I know its a big block - I've seen pics. I may only get one more chance to look. If I find a numbers matching big block I need to know what else to look for to try and ensure its not fake. Sway bars, U-joints, anything else? I figure if its real the car is worth the time and money to restore it right. If its not real I'll hold out till I find one. Thanks!
maybe, likely not imho because unless you get it rather cheap and do most all the work yourself then you could buy one ready to go cheaper,
things like rotted out frames bird cages and windshield frames really drive the restoration costs up, and trust me some rust is not seen until body is off the frame, it will need a new interior , paint etc, $$$...
Then the only times a "real" as you put it bb 69 is worth some tall stack of toad pelts is when it's NCRS award worthy or close and that costs a lot, if you do a restoration with modifications then that resale value goes way down unless it's one of those top shelf restro rods and then you will need just the right buyer.
Ask anyone here if they restored a c3 and it's worth more today than their time and money invested. if so it wont be a long line.
Of course if it's a long lost L-88 or ZL-1 then you hit a jack pot