Front Rotor/Spindle Restore Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis Indiana
Front Rotor/Spindle Restore Question
So I'm restoring my 72 as many of you have probably seen my post. What do I do about the front rotor, hub, spindles? They're still riveted on (rear rotors were already drilled). I've read in some camps it's fine to remove them/drill, others say it's highly unlikely they need replaced. They look to be in good condition, I just want to take everything apart so I can properly clean/blast/paint for restoration. Am I just flirting with the devil if I drill them just to disassemble everything for cleaning/paint? Is there a good way to restore without drilling them out? I'm thinking based on posts about not drilling that maybe I need to just try my best assembled?
Thoughts/tips from people who've left them but blasted/painted your entire front spindle assembly? Thanks!
Thoughts/tips from people who've left them but blasted/painted your entire front spindle assembly? Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Drilling the rivets out to get the rotors off is not a problem per se, but in my experience these things don't often warp. I've read that if they need to be turned it has to be done on the car but I've never seen an 'on the car' brake lathe...I'm told they do exist!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Almost all cars of that era had one piece hubs and rotors.
There is no need to take them apart. If they need turning, a normal brake lathe will do them as is and you will have virtually no measurable runout.
In all likely hood, they do not need replacement.
There is no need to take them apart. If they need turning, a normal brake lathe will do them as is and you will have virtually no measurable runout.
In all likely hood, they do not need replacement.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Don't take them apart or separate the hub from the rotor...Take them to your local parts store that is equipped with a rotor cutting machine and have them true them up..We cut hundreds of rotors without any problems...there is no better way to do this contra to some so called experts that use shims to do this....Just think about 'Brake shops' when they can do brakes in a hour and cutting the rotors to prevent the so called pulsing of warped rotors.......that's there business and highly successful at it as they have no time for comebacks....that would be a waste of time and money.........
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis Indiana
Here's the rotors.... I think this was the driver's side. Both surfaces look to be alright, just some surface rust.
The passenger side was about identical in condition EXCEPT this on the outer surface, inside surface appeared fine:
Like I mentioned, everything seems fine except the groove in the one. I just am **** about getting it all clean and painted and I dunno if I can really do that without taking the rotor off. Should I be worried about that groove? It goes all the way around. I guess rather the bite off more than I can chew with my limited budget I should just get over it and clean them up as best I can?
The passenger side was about identical in condition EXCEPT this on the outer surface, inside surface appeared fine:
Like I mentioned, everything seems fine except the groove in the one. I just am **** about getting it all clean and painted and I dunno if I can really do that without taking the rotor off. Should I be worried about that groove? It goes all the way around. I guess rather the bite off more than I can chew with my limited budget I should just get over it and clean them up as best I can?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 61
From: Southern NH
we have one at work. we mostly use it on Colorado front rotors. anyone who's worked on one of those knows how much of a pain it is to remove the rotor on them.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Here is a before and after of similar rotors.
These were just wire brushed, sprayed with phosphoric acid and the hubs later painted.
Same groove, never turned and when used with cheapo organic pads would lock up the wheels at 70 mph with no runout issues.The pads will brighten the rotor face in a few miles of use.
Brakes are easily accessible at any time if you want to pretty them up.
Just remove the rotor from the spindle (bearing nut) to cleanup.
These were just wire brushed, sprayed with phosphoric acid and the hubs later painted.
Same groove, never turned and when used with cheapo organic pads would lock up the wheels at 70 mph with no runout issues.The pads will brighten the rotor face in a few miles of use.
Brakes are easily accessible at any time if you want to pretty them up.
Just remove the rotor from the spindle (bearing nut) to cleanup.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 59
From: Emerald Isle NC
If the rotors meet or exceed the minimum thickness they shouldn't need replacement. You don't need to remove the rotors to do maintenance (bearing/seal replacement). Follow the CSM. Easy work.
Carter
Carter