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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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Default Strange Nose Issue



Hi All,
This is my first post to the forum, thanks for having me!

I am the original owner of a 1980 L82 Corvette with 16000 miles. recently I have noticed the area between the headlights and just forward of the hood is raising up and interfering with the headlight buckets, actually wearing the paint off in the corners (see link for photos) also, a 3/4 gap is now present between the hood and facia. Strange. Any idea why this is happening? The car has never been hit or in an accident. It is garaged and rarely used.

Your input is appreciated.
Thanks
David

http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/ds...cbef.jpeg.html
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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Wow, that is strange! And that is a pretty big gap too! I think you've got some kind of slow motion deformation going on. I'd be checking to see if any of the mounting bolts for that area are allowing movement upwards. If you don't see any obvious metal wear, where the bolts or hardware have moved, then I'd be looking at adjusting the nose downwards (if that's possible, others, please chime in).
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 01:07 PM
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The head light support reinforcement (metal bar where the headlight supports bolt up) needs to be rebonded to the hood surround panel. Your pic with the hood partially open shows the reinforcement. If you look on the backside of the hood surround panel, you will see where it was bonded.


Last edited by Easy Mike; Apr 10, 2013 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
The head light support reinforcement (metal bar where the headlight supports bolt up) needs to be rebonded to the hood surround panel. Open the hood and peek under the front and you will likely see the area.

Looks like you can see the header bar separated in one of the photos.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 01:26 PM
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is it possible for that header bar to shrink? you can feel a gap between the nose pannel and that rust colored bar seen in the photo. Also the hood was fully closed on all the pics.
Thanks
Dave
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dscrebar
is it possible for that header bar to shrink?
It's stamped steel.

...the hood was fully closed on all the pics...
Okay. Your second pic shows the support bar.

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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 02:22 PM
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Seen this happen before, take it to a good Corvette guy and get it re-bonded. Good luck
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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Same thing happened on my 82. You will have to remove the headlight assemblies and re-bond the reinforcement with clamps. Sounds harder than it is.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Same thing happened on my 82. You will have to remove the headlight assemblies and re-bond the reinforcement with clamps. Sounds harder than it is.
Im in NY any recommendations to where I can take it?
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
...You will have to remove the headlight assemblies...
Possibly not. Depends on what the OP finds when he/she gets under there. If they don't have to be removed, they will actually help align the support during the bonding.

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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Same thing happened on my 82. You will have to remove the headlight assemblies and re-bond the reinforcement with clamps. Sounds harder than it is.
Mine is a 1971, and was done for different reasons (rivet bumps), but the procedure should be the same. It is easier to clamp with the headlights removed. Use boards to help prevent dimples from the clamps. Harbor freight clamps are cheap, and they work.
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 12:30 PM
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It is best to remove the headlights and un bolt the reinforcement so you can get rid of the old glue. At the same time scrape off the glue from underneath so you have a nice bonding surface. The clamps I used were the large Quick Grips with the stem facing upward. They already come with a padded pad and I didn't use anything else. No marks whatsoever.
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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Good luck to the OP, and a question for the assembled:

Is this (potential) problem something that can and should be part of any purchase decision? In other words, can this be identified by pressing down on the hood surround, or light buckets, and looking for movement?

If so, how much pressure (10lbs.? 30lbs?) is enough to test, but won't harm a healthy car? How much movement (if any) in a healthy car is acceptable?

And I saw "glue" mentioned. I would have thought resin and woven roving would be the fix. What is the glue, exactly?

Thanks.
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mid-Years Forever!
...can this be identified...
Yes. You can usually see it. Headlight doors will not be aligned along the back.

...I would have thought resin and woven roving would be the fix...
Resin and roving will not bond steel to fiberglass.

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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 01:37 PM
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I used a two part structural adhesive that needs a special applicator gun so it mixes it evenly. Basically the same stuff that was applied at the factory. This only pertains to the 80-82. Not for sure about the late 70s but the early cars used rivets.
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 01:54 PM
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Easy Mike and alconk,

Thank you, both, for the information and education. Just what I was looking for.

Peter
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
I used a two part structural adhesive that needs a special applicator gun so it mixes it evenly. Basically the same stuff that was applied at the factory. This only pertains to the 80-82. Not for sure about the late 70s but the early cars used rivets.
Yup, I used the same 2 part stuff for the 71. I don`t recall the name, but it was a 3-M product, specifically for bonding metal to fiberglass. OP.... On the earlier cars, the rivets would corrode, and cause "bumps" around the headlights. Once the rivets are cut out or dug out, the metal header is then glued back in place.

Last edited by oldgto; Apr 11, 2013 at 07:16 PM.
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