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Manual Trans Access Panel

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Old Apr 12, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Default Manual Trans Access Panel

It wasn't hard to do. Driver sides Trans Tunnel, cut a 10x4 rectangular hole and behold, the entire four speed linkage is right there in front of you. Use #10 Speed Nuts and a piece of 16 gauge steel,, with insulation and you're in business. Easier by tenfold to adjust, will make dropping the trans easier next time.

Glad I did it, as the reverse linkage bolt came loose for a second time and wrench and hand access borders on the sadistic.
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Old Apr 12, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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Old Apr 12, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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Don't have to jack up the car either. You're not underneath it either and you don't need help to work the shifter and... you can put the O.644 neuttral gauge from above too, while easily adjusting the rods. Wasn't too tough forming the metal to the trans tunnel. Going with DuPont Kapton film on the backside to reject the heat and the Dynamat over it, so heat shouldnt be a problem easier. Almost done.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 03:35 AM
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Did a lot of shaping with the metal and got the form of the left side trans tunnel matched. The eight speed nuts hold it very securely and were easy to clip in and drill. It lies flush and will be invisible under the carpet.

The best part was adjusting the linkages! No hand torture, total breeze and did it in under an hour, without going under the car. Only required assistance to push the shifter hard against the limit in reverse, because the 0.644 gauge has the tiniest amount of room in the reverse neutral notch alongside the shifter. Only then and while.pushing the gauge inward and wiggling the rod, will you get 'The Lock'. Got the panel and buttoned it up in five minutes.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Bagmup
Agreed! And sorry for the delay. Had to wait until today to upload the pics.

Ok, still happy I did this. The shifting is so nice and it was so easy to adjust while there. You can see the speednuts. I scribed the plate from the back, with a 90 degree scribe, to locate the holes in the back of the plate:



Here's the plate: 20 gauge steel and the markings are for forming the plate to the transmission tunnel.




Then, while I was at it, I had drilled a hole in the gauge, so I wouldn't mistake it for a piece of scrap metal. After trying to fit hand, down in shifter hole, I said to myself, 'Screw That!' and I made it into this:



Now see how easy it is, to put it down the shifter hole AND push it into the slot for neutral. Much, much easier! I could wiggle the shifter with one hand and work the gauge into the slot with the other. As mentioned, the only help needed, was for the reverse slot and my partner, held the shifter hard against the limit, so that the gauge could slot into the reverse position next to it. Found the sweet spot lock and spun the nuts!

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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 01:26 PM
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How often do you need to adjust the shift linkage once it's in place?
Seems like a fair amount of work for something you do once in a blue moon?
Just my .02
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ezobens
How often do you need to adjust the shift linkage once it's in place?
Seems like a fair amount of work for something you do once in a blue moon?
Just my .02
Fair question and let me answer that. As far as how often I have to do this, I was on my second attempt, because I could barely get the nuts tightened up in that impossible access area. I dreaded having to spend hours and hours underneath the car, playing painful hand-origami. I mean, I could get no wrench up there for nothing! Crows Feet Wrenches might have worked, but it would've still been a tough *****' to do.

Remember, at the factory they dropped the body on top of the chassis, with the engine and transmission, already in it (and I imagine the shifter too!).

It seems like a fair amount of work, true but it was waa-aay easier doing this, than attempting to adjust it again. If that Blue Moon comes up, all I have to do is pull the console and carpet and the plate is right there, versus the alternate.
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