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Stripping Begins.....

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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Default Stripping Begins.....

Decided to do it....strip off the paint of my '81. It has two layers of white paint on it, plus a clear coat on the top. Started using the razor blade method...takes a few minutes to learn the technique and limitations.
Spent about an hour or so this afternoon working on the left front fender...got about 1/2 of it down to primer...alot more to go. Some areas are just going to have to be sanded....just cannot get an edge on it without getting into the fiberglass.

Not going to break any speed records here...no need too....slow and easy here.

This sure does make a mess.

The fun is just beginning................
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:41 AM
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Great, any pictures of your progress?
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 06:50 AM
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you think the razor makes a mess, wait till you start sanding it !!!!!!!!!!

I am just about done striping my '81, it had three layers of paint + primer between each coat and then clear (which was most of the way off already). I started out with the razor but it wouldn't touch the anything but the top coat of paint. ended up sanding the entire car, used a palm sander with 80 grit paper till I got down to the factory black primer, then switched to 120 grit to get that off. I expected it to take a long time but I got the entire car striped in about a week working two or three hours in the mornings.

good luck with your project and keep us updated with pictures.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:01 AM
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I tried the razor method. After I dug into the body a few times I decided to try another method. I tried sanding but there was too much paint on the car. I used Capt. Lees to strip the paint. I had 5 layers and 2 gallons got it all off. Hosed the car down a few times, then sanded it and primered it. Took me 2 days.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:12 AM
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I will probably have to use some paint stripper on some areas due to no room to get a razor in there. Also I tried using my heat gun along with the razor....WOW...what a difference that makes. Although I think the heat gun is too hot and will be switching to a hair dryer.

Wife wanted to try her hand at using the razor blade....and so she did....and away she did go...took off the area between the hood and front bumper and started on the left fender. But she had paint chips in her face and hair and then went to wash it off....within 10 minutes she was having some type of allergic reaction...face was red, nose all stuffed-up, didn't feel well....so she is done.

Question: is there anything special to be done about getting the paint off the bumper covers that are not fiberglass....besides not digging into them??

Last edited by LannyL81; Apr 16, 2013 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by LannyL81
Question: is there anything special to be done about getting the paint off the bumper covers that are not fiberglass....besides not digging into them??
Chemical strippers and/or sand paper.....
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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On my 77 bumpers I just finished stripping them last week using the dark maroon scotch brite pads. The course ones, and lacquer thinner only. Scrub scrub scrub and wipe. I was afraid of using anything else for fear of changing the surface of the bumper. They did a great jub. Shown below is the pad I used, cut it up into 9 peices. It took a while to do both the bumpers, but they came out great. The rest of the car was the 1st layer with blades, then Capt lees on the rest of the layers. Always used it, never any problems.


Last edited by John 65; Apr 16, 2013 at 10:33 AM.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by LannyL81
I will probably have to use some paint stripper on some areas due to no room to get a razor in there. Also I tried using my heat gun along with the razor....WOW...what a difference that makes. Although I think the heat gun is too hot and will be switching to a hair dryer.

Wife wanted to try her hand at using the razor blade....and so she did....and away she did go...took of the area between the hood and front bumper and started on the left fender. But she had paint chips in her face and hair and then went to wash it off....within 10 minutes she was having some type of allergic reaction...face was red, nose all stuffed-up, didn't fell well....so she is done.

Question: is there anything special to be done about getting the paint off the bumper covers that are not fiberglass....besides not digging into them??
There are strippers available that are specifically for the bumpers on these cars. Spray it on, let it set, scrub off with scotch brite pads. A D/A sander will help you out with your project for sure.

Don't let your wife off the hook so easily. A simple pair of gloves and a respirator from Lowe's will get back in action in no time!
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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Default Need some help

Since this is my first attempt at fiberglass body work, need to ask a few questions as I am just unsure....sorry if these are dumb...but I need to ask anyways:

These are pictures of the hood - and I tried to show the clear coat and repaint white color and then after scrapping this white layer is remaining.....is this a primer or the original 1981 white paint?

On the areas that I have gone through this white layer, there appears to a layer of black and then gray. I am assuming the gray is fiberglass; is the black the original primer or something else. Do I leave the white layer on or do I need to remove it as well?
The clear coat and white repaing come off pretty easy....the other white does not.

Again sorry for the newbe, dumb questions regarding Corvette paint.....I am on new ground here.....






Last edited by LannyL81; Apr 16, 2013 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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Looking good Lanny, keep the thread updated with pics!
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 540 vette
I tried the razor method. After I dug into the body a few times I decided to try another method. I tried sanding but there was too much paint on the car. I used Capt. Lees to strip the paint. I had 5 layers and 2 gallons got it all off. Hosed the car down a few times, then sanded it and primered it. Took me 2 days.
i don't know why anyone would use razor blades, paint stripper, even the regular aircraft stripper works great and FAST. by the looks of the pics you are doing more damage than good to the body. Rick
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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try some ''dads'' stripper in a blue/yellow can
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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Yeah...I did dig into the hood there....I was using the heat gun and moving too fast, leaning over too much, off balance...and several other excuses......but will go get some stripper and stop using the razor blade.

From what I have read, the Capt Lees seems to be the favorite choice. Just have to find it.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by LannyL81
Yeah...I did dig into the hood there....I was using the heat gun and moving too fast, leaning over too much, off balance...and several other excuses......but will go get some stripper and stop using the razor blade.

From what I have read, the Capt Lees seems to be the favorite choice. Just have to find it.
good for you...1 tip if i may....let the stripper do the work! i made that mistake on the first one i stripped (years ago now) and i think others would agree. put the stripper on in one fairly large area, put it on generously, then WAIT for it to do the work! don't remove it too soon..good luck, you'll quickly get a "feel" for it! Rick
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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good luck
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 09:45 AM
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Some great input given to this topic. The info in ref. to "letting the chemical do the work f/ you" is the way to go. Let the chemical do EVERYTHING it is capable of doing. Also the use of "Scotch Brite Pads" on the front and rear bumpers is another great idea. I've found in recent years, that those pads are great f/ many things, also wood, plastic, metal, etc., and I use the fine pads to polish certain materials also. These pads can take the place of and do a better job than both emery cloth and sand paper in certain situations.
One suggestion; When I decide to work in any area/field and take on a task/project, unless I'm fully/completely trained in that field/area, I first read EVERYTHING I can get my hands on to do w/ the upcoming project, read it three times and hi-lite the most important parts to use as a reference. I do this rather than take up the time of an expert on questions that I could have answered myself w/ alittle research. Also, this may to some small degree impress your expert/go-to guy who is helping you thru this and make him/her want to help you even more do to your obvious desire to learn as much as you can on your own. ***I am by no means saying that you should or should not have asked questions that you've asked here, as you should ask any and all of whatever you want to, as you're among friends here and atleast f/ me, everyone should feel at home and comfortable and feel free to ask away. I'm only out-lining what I personally do when I under-take a project in a field that I'm not very well versed in.
The Very Best of Luck w/ your project. I know, that w/ the amount of dedication you show here, that the final paint will come out fantastic. Please keep us posted as to your progress, w/ pictures if possible, and let us know what was easy and what was not so easy and any tricks, etc. that worked or didn't work f/ you. Again, The Very Best of Luck and keep your chin up. Sincerely.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 04:03 PM
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First off...thanks for the replies and guidance.

I actually did do quite a bit of reading before about the razor blade method or using a chemical stripper.

But what I could not read about before hand is what am I going to find on my car...and I still need those questions answered;

What is the layer of white that I am uncovering?

Does this need to be removed?

What is the layer of black material?
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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you are dealing with paint, perhaps clear coat and multiple paint jobs, probably a sanding/filling primer and sealers....ALL of it must come off, and will come off with the stripper, right down to bare fiberglass which will be obvious when you get there. don't worry to much about which layer is what, ya know? have fun, steel wool also works well with the strippers, probably better with the heavier/early layers than scotchbrite pads, but scotchbrite (red) pad works great when you get down to or near the final round. Rick
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:15 PM
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if you car is like my '81, the black is the factory epoxy sealer. everything above that is either primer of paint. the black is some tough stuff, took guite a bit of work with the sander to get it off.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 11:52 PM
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So I need to take this down to the fiberglass!!!!....oh boy....and here I was thinking that I was 1/4 done.....ARRRGGGHHHH.....

I tried some Citrus Stripper this afternoon on one of the pieces that go around the head lamps. Brushed it on as somewhat thick and let it set for 3 hours....it took the clear coat off most of it and in a couple of areas down to fiberglass....also found out that there was a layer of red paint as well on this piece...but it will need a 2nd application.

The Captain Lees stripper...read alot about the fumes and the need for an air supplied respirator. I am working in my garage that is attached to my house...so heavy fumes is not something that I am going to be able to deal with. What to do....?????
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