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Old May 3, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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Default air cond

Hi just wondering others thoughts have the engine out at moment doing rebuild and tidy up engine bay.Not sure if to leave all air conditioner components out,dont think i need it as always drive with tops of,but if i ever sold would others prefer a/c working.
thanks in advance for any opinions.
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Old May 4, 2013 | 11:03 AM
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Up to you; it's your car. Personally, I would not buy a factory air car without the factory air, but that's only my take on it.
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Old May 4, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Was your AC working properly before you pulled the engine? If so, no reason not to hook it all back up again.

Gary
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Old May 4, 2013 | 11:58 AM
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toss up I vote keep it, if you go to sell its makes a difference
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Old May 4, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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I am a big fan of air conditioning. Wow..Im going to say "pun intended"!

When I was looking for mine I didnt really care what year I was looking at...it had to have A/C.

Although it doesnt work, its on my list of things to do. Yeah, I could have added an aftermarket set up to a non a/c car [and perhaps I would have been better off that way], but the two most important features when I was shopping was 4 speed and A/C....the big block was a dumb-luck find.
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Old May 4, 2013 | 06:21 PM
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Mine doesn't work and I don't care because I would not use it anyway. Its all there though. BUT if the car is a factory air car think resale and originality and keep it if originality matters to you. If not rip it out it's in the way.
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Old May 4, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Default air cond

Thanks everyone for replies
Its just that i am in australia and when cars are brought in this country a/c has to be disconnected cant have gas in system,so not sure if was working or not ,just i wont use it but not sure what others thought,,just i like others ideas to help me decide which way to go.
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Old May 4, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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If you leave it off plug all openings in hoses, compressor, condenser and evaporator to keep out moisture. mike...
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 08:55 AM
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Still working on my factory AC in my 64 coupe and have a new question. I believe somewhere in this thread or another thread about RPM drop, somebody noted the need for the compressor to have a 6 1/2" ($$$) pulley. I wanted to ask "why is that important?" With the help of a new shop we were able to find a leak in the system and I believe now have that solved. However I again have the excessive RPM drop when at idle which caused stalling. My belief was an OVERCHARGE of freon because I was told the high side pressure was about 280+PSI. So I was thinking that maybe the compressor pulley diameter had something to do with the drag and RPM drop. I have a new aftermarket A6 Murray compressor with a small 5+/-" pulley installed. I looked at my removed original compressor and it has the 6 1/2" pulley. Before I investigate if we can switch the pulleys or put the original compressor back in I wanted to know if someone understood the need for the large diameter pulley.
Any thoughts?

Craig
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 09:12 AM
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As someone who is currently having to go through the hassle of reinstalling an AC system that was removed by a previous owner, I say leave it alone or someone after you may want to hunt you down and kick you in the shin for taking it out.
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 12:16 PM
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I would go to the C-2 forum and ask Larry Power Shift. He knows midyear AC systems inside and out. Jerry
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 04:23 PM
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Yes Larry is the man. If your car is a 365 HP it will have the 6 3/8 " pulley. otherwise it came with a 5 3/4" pulley. The comp will draw the RPM down if over charged.

Dom
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by domenic tallarita
Yes Larry is the man. If your car is a 365 HP it will have the 6 3/8 " pulley. otherwise it came with a 5 3/4" pulley. The comp will draw the RPM down if over charged.

Dom
Thank you, I was hoping that the over pressure causing the RPM drop was correct. And I'll PM Larry. I was hoping he would see this post.
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
I would go to the C-2 forum and ask Larry Power Shift. He knows midyear AC systems inside and out. Jerry
Thanks Jerry. I was thinking that Larry is the one who posted the large diameter pulley info. I'll PM him.

Craig
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 64DreamMachine
Still working on my factory AC in my 64 coupe and have a new question. I believe somewhere in this thread or another thread about RPM drop, somebody noted the need for the compressor to have a 6 1/2" ($$$) pulley. I wanted to ask "why is that important?" With the help of a new shop we were able to find a leak in the system and I believe now have that solved. However I again have the excessive RPM drop when at idle which caused stalling. My belief was an OVERCHARGE of freon because I was told the high side pressure was about 280+PSI. So I was thinking that maybe the compressor pulley diameter had something to do with the drag and RPM drop. I have a new aftermarket A6 Murray compressor with a small 5+/-" pulley installed. I looked at my removed original compressor and it has the 6 1/2" pulley. Before I investigate if we can switch the pulleys or put the original compressor back in I wanted to know if someone understood the need for the large diameter pulley.
Any thoughts?

Craig
Sorry for barging in on this thread. I seriously thought I was posting to my own thread I started about my C2 Factory AC problems. Seems I got two threads mixed up.
Craig
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