I can't believe it but I'm stymied trying to get the spark plugs out of my motor. Hubby rebuilt the carb but its not running much better so I thought I'd check the plugs and wires, but holy crap, where the hell are they?

I was able to get my left hand on the plug boot for the front left side spark plug but was unable to pull it off. I can't see any of the other plugs or wires from the top of the motor, do I need to lift the car and go underneath it to remove spark plugs, or do some combination of underneath and on top?

 

The plugs are difficult to access. Might be better to have an experienced shop do the work...... will cost a couple hours of work x the shop rate. Might take you several days.... just guessing.

Before checking the plugs and wires, you might see if there are any trouble codes set: http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html

"Hubby rebuilt the carb"? It is always advisable to post the year of your vette.

 

Sorry, I posted this in the wrong section, the car is a 79, I thought I was in the C3 section. No wonder I couldn't find this after I went back to edit it.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerbuilt-11-inch-Long-Reach-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-New-/290762602194?pt=Pliers&hash=item43b2cd36d2

 

Just like most C3's, it is much easier to remove the plugs from underneath the vehicle. Although they can be done at the top.
Jack up the front end, secure with jackstands, and remove the front wheels. You will be amazed of how much room you have and how easy the spark plugs and their boots can be removed. You could probably do it in 1/3 of the time rather than removing them from the top of the engine. And while both wheels are off, what better time to grease and inspect the front end???? A win-win combo at that!!!! Be safe....

 

To get the 2 rear plugs off on each side you need to remove the shielding on each side.
You can see the pass side shield at the top of this pic.
2 bolts in each one, from the top, but accessed from underneath. 1/4"(7/16" wrench).

The front 2 on each side are just a pain to get to, but easiest from underneath.

 

I have looked at changing out the plugs on my 1977 and from the looks of it probably easier to remove them from the underside of the car while it is up on a lift or even ramps. Everything is easier to get to from the underside of the car with universal joints on the socket wrench and a 3 to 6 inch extension. Ramps will be tight to reach up into the engine but they will allow you to reach the top side of the engine at the same time unless you have access to a 4 post lift with ramps and a ladder to climb up on the lift. Two post lift you might have to raise and lower the car as you replace the parts.

Whenever I install plugs I use a Copper Anti Seize Compound just a dab on the end of the threads and on the Wires I use the Silicone Wire lube. These two things help the next time I go in there to perform Tune Ups again and help to keep water out while preventing the seizing of any parts.

The wires Cap and Rotor should be changed at the same time and as another member says you have some heat shields to remove. If you do not have access to a lift or even ramps it might be less of a headache to have a shop perform the tune up. For major bucks expect 1 to 2 hrs labor at least $100.00 bucks per hour. You can save money by buying all the parts because most shops will charge a 50% to 100% markup on the parts from NAPA using stock parts and most shops are happy just to get the labor on this. Buy quality parts when you do this Mallory or MSD and use 8mm to 8.5 mm wires they make a huge difference on spark than last longer. Cheap wires are 7mm or 7.5 mm. The wires route downwards and are also not easy to get to. The first time I do mine I will expect it to take me at least 2 hrs to figure out how to remove and install all the parts.

I am fortunate enough to have access to a 4 post lift

 

Thanks guys, that's a big help, I'll have a go at it from underneath.

 

Looking at before you attempt the project helps a bunch. Figure out everything you have to remove before going into it and will save you lots of time. Nothing worse then just tearing into it with out knowing what all needs to be removed than put back.

 

I did half mine from the top, the other half from the bottom. nothing is easy on a c3 lol. good luck

 

Now here's another thought, if you turn the Vette upside down, then you won't need ramps, or stands, or lifts, or!!!!!!!! Just think of how easy it will be to reach over and get those plugs, doing the suspension in that position would be a breeze.....
I know....I know it's time for me to go to bed and get some sleep....

 

The Corvette is not a dog who will just roll over and with it's legs or tires up in the air LOL

 

I'm going to study it a bit before I start taking it apart. The pictures help.
We have a two post hydraulic hoist so lifting it off the ground isn't that big a deal

 

Just make sure you have the right tools which are a socket wrench and three lengths of extensions (short, medium and something homemade in between) and you be fine from above.

I remove the plugs from the top in 10 minutes, no problem (OK, no ignition shielding and AC either...)

 

Well, I'll have another look but my first impression was there was no way to get my hand between the exhaust manifold and the other stuff on the inner fender.

 

Go Priya! Go Priya!

Sorry--had an '80's flashback there, for a sec....

But seriously, and not to sound (or be) sexist, I'm really impressed you're tackling this. And I don't mean to imply that it's something you shouldn't do, because it's not. It's a routine maintenance job (just more of a PITA because it's a C3), and you've received some good tips, IMHO. It's just that, outside of tech schools, I can't think where to find a female who is comfortable putting a car up on a lift (by herself?)--let alone getting under it.

I know a number of men who would not have a clue about putting their vehicle on a lift.

If you ever felt inclined to share any details about how you came to be so mechanically-inclined, and 'Vette-possessed, I'm sure I wouldn't be the only interested reader.

You rock!

 

Thanks Mid-years forever! I appreciate the encouragement. I suppose I kind of fell into working on cars because I was always short on money and wanted things fixed/restored and couldn't afford to pay someone else to do it so I figured if I read up on it I can do it myself.

As far as the Corvette goes they first made a big impression on me when I was around eight or so and I at that time I thought it was the coolest car ever. Over the years I mostly had Fords and in 2007 sold my favourite a 70 Ford Torino with 351C 4 barrel 4 speed. I moved in with my husband late that year and sold my acreage and had about $18,000 left over after the acreage and a number of other debts were paid off. I bought a 1980 280ZX to restore and then as the months went by thought "If I could have any car ever made what would I buy?".

I decided I'd start looking and sell the 280ZX. The cars I was considering were '59, '60, and '67 Chev Impala 2 drs, a 71 Mustang, 69 Charger, 68/69 and 78/79 Corvette. I ruled out the Mustang and '67 Impala as very nice but not super nice. The '69 Chargers were $30-50,000 for a nice one and there weren't any '59 or '60 Impalas in my price range either. So I narrowed it to the C3 Corvettes and eventually decided although I probably liked the 68/69 body style better I strongly disliked the 68/69 interior while I thought the 78/79 interior was really nice, so I ended up with the '79 Corvette

If you think I'm unusual, you should see the shop where my husband works at as a mechanic. For the first year he was there he was the only male in a shop of four people, the ladies there were real wrench turners and yes, his boss is a lady mechanic.

As far as the hoist goes, I'm always really nervous about using it and I avoid it if I can although I did use it a great deal on the project below.

If you like what I'm doing here you might get a kick out of the car I finished restoring last year. Hubby did most of the mechanical work but I figure I did 95% of the body work.

http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=15595.0

 

Wow, I guess this is a vote for headers then. I did the plugs on mine a couple of days ago. #1 and #2 were a bit harder, but the rest were easy. (cold motor) #2 I used a wrench on the spark plug socket, #1 I had to use a wrench on the plug itself. Compared to doing the plugs on my TA, these were a piece of cake. Didn't even bleed.

If it's any consolation, I found out Rock Auto pranked me. My $10 plug wires... are build it yourself plug wires. So much for a great deal - crimping the ends on and forcing them through 90 degree boots? Ain't nobody got time for that.

 

Cutting your own plug wires is actually pretty cool. You can get a much cleaner setup if you do it right. FWIW, they don't make the bend in the boot. The plug terminal rests at the bend.

 

Now I'm feeling really dumb. LOL.

I put the boot on first like it was a straight through one.
I guess that's generic instructions for you - put the boot on, then crimp, then slide the boot back over. With angle boots that's not necessary?

Doh.