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Curious, Original rotors?

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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Default Curious, Original rotors?

Taking things apart to repair some issues on the front and I see the rotors are still riveted on. I measure 1.22" thickness which from what I've read is replacement time.

What I want to know is during the life of the car did dealers or shops install new rotors and re rivet them back on?
My odometer shows 68,000 miles so I'm assuming 168K but could stock rotors last that long?
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 11:20 PM
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Min thickness is 1.215". If you aren't having any problems, I would leave them on

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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 02:19 AM
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New rotor = 1.250
Minimum after refinish= 1.230
discard = 1.215
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ddawson
...What I want to know is during the life of the car did dealers or shops install new rotors and re rivet them back on?...
Usually not.

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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
New rotor = 1.250
Minimum after refinish= 1.230
discard = 1.215
according to the stamp on that original rotor I showed, that's the minimum spec, not discard spec.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ddawson

What I want to know is during the life of the car did dealers or shops install new rotors and re rivet them back on?
GM never sold individual rotors- that's a (dumb) aftermarket invention. The rotors and hubs/spindles form a matched set and were never intended to be split.

It's not rare to see original rotors still riveted on, it's a sign that Bubba has not been to visit. My fronts have 130K miles on them and are like new aside from surface rust.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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The rotors on my 69 are still original. Surface rust only, but no issues. 76k miles

Gary

Last edited by exposingtime; Jun 24, 2013 at 12:22 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Thanks, wish new car rotors lasted this long.

I measure a little over 1.22 so I'll just rebuild the calipers and install new pads.

I took it apart because it was pulling to one side under braking and I found one side looks to be a new caliper and the other old.

The old caliper has orange seals and spring forward when I removed the pads. The other didn't move so they are either missing the springs or could be an o-ring setup. The pistons look new.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by qwank
according to the stamp on that original rotor I showed, that's the minimum spec, not discard spec.
Maybe the specs have changed.


ddawson
You might want to open up the caliper that doesn't spring back and see why.
O rings on one side? Could be, but that might cause your pull to one side.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 10:08 AM
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replace all 4 brake hoses too.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 11:50 AM
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FWIW, when I was going over my car in 2002 after it was in storage for about 15 years, the original rotors were glazed and pitted. I think I had them "resurfaced" once already sometime in the 80's. I went with these and have been satisfied. If you go with replacement rotors, make sure they are "true" otherwise they will pump air back into the system.



The were a set (that does not appear to be available now) from VBP that had Hawk pads. The rotors were said to be "cryogenic treated" which I though was .
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
replace all 4 brake hoses too.
All new hoses too. New calipers, Ball Joints and Springs.

Looking at repacking the bearing while I have it all apart.
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