Picking a c3 year
I was maybe leaning toward the 78-80 years becuase they have more rear luggage space, and start going up in power again since it was declining. I'm probably going to end up getting somthing that just looks the best to me, but if you could suggest a year, what would you pick?
I would recommend you keep an open mind and consider any year model. Buy the car in the best condition possible that meets your budget. You might find the perfect '74 or a great '82. I really wanted a chrome bumper car when I started my search and settled on looking for a 70 to 72 but kept one eye on other models and ended up finding a good '73.
Good luck.
DC
Do not purchase the first Corvette you look at, even if it seems like the best deal out there. Take your time. Also, looking at a Corvette on eBay, or the other sites does not count as "looking" at a Corvette. You have to look at them in person. There are plenty of Corvettes out there in your price range. Heck, there is a great one here in my area that I have been keeping my eye on and I wonder what is wrong with it at the price point. If the price is low or keeps dropping, there has to be something the seller is not sharing.
If you can, take someone that knows about older cars and specifically Corvettes if you can. You need someone with an objective eye to look it over with you if this is your first time with the C3's. It might help if you fill out your profile a little more so we know where you are located and if someone can help you locally.
Enjoy the hunt, it is part of the journey,
~GRipp
Bubble back window or small back window.
1974-1977 style interior or 1978-1982 Style
4 speed vs automatic
honestly, buy what you really want first, so that way you will never say "man I wish I had gotten this ____ or this _____ instead"
Here in California, if you buy a 1975 or older car, you can put in any engine you want without hassle. This situation varies from state to state.
One of the good things about the 74 and up cars...no external chrome. It's EXPENSIVE to maintain a chrome car, since replating prices are just astronomical.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Here in California, if you buy a 1975 or older car, you can put in any engine you want without hassle. This situation varies from state to state.
One of the good things about the 74 and up cars...no external chrome. It's EXPENSIVE to maintain a chrome car, since replating prices are just astronomical.
I was not aware that he is in California, if he is yes he will have smog issues to deal with. I believe that 1975 and older will work for him and are smog exempt.
the other things is yes, most c3 vettes came underpowered, but that is really just a detail. Check out forum member RebelRob. He has a 1982 CE C3 that is pushing 600+ hp BBC backed by a 4 speed. Don't judge a book by its cover

I'm trying to be fair and balanced here.
I could have spent more then then the $9000 I bought this car for on a early model but I was looking at about $20,000 or more for the condition mine was in. Mine in prime condition is worth about $14,000 after I finish fixing it and all the money I put in I can get back out of the car since it only has 44,000 original miles on it but needs me to put about $4000 into it. I could make a $1000 to $2000 profit after I finish the car but I will never sell it. I bought it for life.
The 1975 Corvettes had the lowest horse power at 165 HP and up to 1974 was the last year before Emission controls really took over and the had 195 HP on the L48 engines.
The last true Muscle car of the L48 an L82 Engines was back in 1971 and then the government mandated they reduced the compression ratio for Unleaded Fuels. By 1972 almost all engines were about 8 to 1 Compression except for the L82 engines and they continued these at 9 to 1 compression and had a higher RPM Redline at about 6000 rpms. The L48 engines had 2 bolt mains and are capable of 350 HP but they never saw this high of horse power range and most never saw above 200 HP.
Performing research on a car is the best way to buy a car. Here also in Colorado anything lower the Model Year 1975 any thing goes they do not perform emission testing or really care unless it has visable smoke from oil burn on these older engines. 1976 and beyond when they put a CAT system on the engine it has to have mostly original emission controls on the engine.
I past up a 1976 Corvette that was dyno at 326 HP on a L48 engine with 383 Stroker engine kit installed because I did not want to put all the emission controls on it again. Sorry I did this car would have cost me less in the long run because it sold for 9000 and I have already put about 2000 into the 1977 and still need to dump another 2 grand into mine to get it where I want it be.
Last edited by Mike Ward; Jul 20, 2013 at 12:01 PM.
by a C3 convertible ........C3 convertibles are my fav body style, owned bunches of vettes over the years, top,down driving rocks !
1975,convertible in silver is stunning car.
oh.......and buy a Manual transmission and have a little fun .
I bought my first vette , I was 18 and 11 months , that summer . It had side pipes too....LoL. .... was a blast ......was a t top , and when I saw in the owners Manual there was convertibles .....oh man I had to have one. one day.
C3 are steal right now, there was so many made for such a long time, they are dirt cheap, what can you buy in the price range as cool. Steel body cars are crazy priced.
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Jul 20, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
After 1 month and $500 (seatbelts, fluids, carb rebuild, a few other tid-bits), it was on the road.
500 miles later, I needed a $500 radiator.
500 miles after that, ignition failture. I'm the king of overkill, so I installed a $1,000 stem-to-stern MSD 6AL system.
1,000 miles after that, I pulled the engine for a variety of reasons. Turned out the "failure" was a weak MSD coil that was 3 months old. Funny...the new $1k ignition system is what left me on the side of the road. That was last October. It's OK, though. There were numerous things that could have failed catastrophically (60# spring pressure, cam wear, multiple bent pushrods, evidence of detonation, to name a few) so it was a blessing in disguise.
I'm now $3,500 into a comprehensive engine rebuild taking my factory 370 HP LT-1 engine to a conservative 500 HP...probably nearer 525...550 max. I have another $1,500 to finish the engine build, then another $1,000 to address other items while the engine is out. So, a $6k project.
$7,000 car + ~2,000 miles + $8,000 repairs = nearly 2 years of my 1970 Corvette ownership.
So...I totally agree with Mr. Ward.
Of course, I would have NEVER considered a $15k car from the get-go. I LOOOOOOOOVE working on my own car. The down time sucks, but the economy sucks too. Not much petty cash laying around. She'll be running soon enough. And she's MINE. Not another one like it.
So...$7k is enough to get started, to be sure. Not enough to get finished, though. There's lots of fun to be had in between...that much is certain. Just be 100% certain that you don't need this car on a daily basis, you have a place to store it, and you are fine with 'tinkering' for a year or more while you're waiting for funding to fix a major failure.
If you're cool with all that, then you're nine-tenths of the way there!!!
When I am done working on it I will value it for what it's true value that I could resell it for. It is a restoration project in it;s early days since I have only owned it for about 10 weeks. I figure it will take me about 3 years to restore everything on it. I bought a good base frame and body but the suspension is shot in many areas still. SInce I know how to tear a car down and put it back together I will save Thousands in Labor costs and get to buy some cool new tools along the way. I love buying tools as much as I love working on cars.
Trade off is it is not a shark and it is a C4!




















