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Hey, just wondering what advice I could get for pulling the dash. The radio barely works, the speakers are shot, the tach doesn't work, got a bunch of burned out bulbs for the gauges, and the telescoping steering wheel doesn't work and the horn goes off every time you try to telescope it. Plus anything else I may find while I'm in there...
Hey, just wondering what advice I could get for pulling the dash. The radio barely works, the speakers are shot, the tach doesn't work, got a bunch of burned out bulbs for the gauges, and the telescoping steering wheel doesn't work and the horn goes off every time you try to telescope it. Plus anything else I may find while I'm in there...
Remove the steering column first thing this will make everything else a whole lot easier.
I think there is a procedure listed on the Wilcox website on how to remove the top dash pad.
While the dash is apart, there's lots to do. First off replace the wiring harness, then all the old vacuum hoses, and test all the vacuum actuators on the heater box. On my '73, I had the tach converted to electronic, and the oil pressure gage converted to electric.
Another thing to consider while the dash is out is to plug all the unused holes and insulate the firewall.
If you do this.. use the instructions on the left side to remove column. Then use the dash instructions for the rest of it.. The lower one needs to be updated but... taking the column out makes this job so much easier.
The pads if original, will be a bit on the brittle side so you really should do this.
It makes the job way easier and it is very easy to remove. Plus, leaving the column in the car can damage the left dash pad where it curves around the column.
I think there is a procedure listed on the Wilcox website on how to remove the top dash pad.
While the dash is apart, there's lots to do. First off replace the wiring harness, then all the old vacuum hoses, and test all the vacuum actuators on the heater box. On my '73, I had the tach converted to electronic, and the oil pressure gage converted to electric.
Another thing to consider while the dash is out is to plug all the unused holes and insulate the firewall.
Try to have fun,
John
gonna be the most stressful fun i've ever had working on a car most likely. what did it require to convert the tach and oil pressure to electronic?
I sent the Tach, Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, and Amp gage to:
Corvette Instrument Service
9627 Begonia St.
Palm Beach Gardens, Fl 33410
561-627-9345
The Tach was converted to electronic. $240.
The Oil Pressure gage was converted to electric and a pressure sender was supplied. $130.
The Amp Gage was converted to a Volts Gage. $100.
The Oil Temp gage came out of a later model Vette and the gage face style had to be changed to look like my other '73 gages. $30
Drop the steering column first, center console gauge cluster next then you can get to the fun parts like dash harness and old vacuum hoses. Good luck and make sure you have the color coded wiring diagram.
If you're going to replace the wiring harness, then I strongly suggest that you buy the OoSoEz diagrams from Dr. Rebuild. There are only two for the whole car and they are about $15 ea.
gonna be the most stressful fun i've ever had working on a car most likely. what did it require to convert the tach and oil pressure to electronic?
Previous owner of my '73 sourced a tach from a '75 and installed the '73 tach face on it. He also used the HEI distributor from the '75. I've since converted to Auto Meter gauges.
The plastic lines going to the oil pressure gauge are known to fail. Mine broke in the engine compartment but others have pumped their radios full of oil. If you don't convert to electronic, you can upgrade from the plastic tube. When mine broke, I found a nitrous oxide hose but it was hard to find the proper fittings and I had to do a bit of garage engineering. Later when I converted all gauges to Auto Meter, I discovered Auto Meter makes a braided hose that will work for these old gauges.
If you're going to replace the wiring harness, then I strongly suggest that you buy the OoSoEz diagrams from Dr. Rebuild. There are only two for the whole car and they are about $15 ea.
John
I agree with JohnRR these wiring diagrams are cheap and are the best I have found. Money well spent. Oh and I recommend taking lots of photos especially of the harness routing. It can be a real PITA if to reinstall the dash if the harness is not routed correctly. Don't ask how I know.
I agree with JohnRR these wiring diagrams are cheap and are the best I have found. Money well spent. Oh and I recommend taking lots of photos especially of the harness routing. It can be a real PITA if to reinstall the dash if the harness is not routed correctly. Don't ask how I know.
been there done that as well... I'm sure I'll do it to myself again at some point just the same
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by JohnRR
If you're going to replace the wiring harness, then I strongly suggest that you buy the OoSoEz diagrams from Dr. Rebuild. There are only two for the whole car and they are about $15 ea.
John
And another $15 for shipping! That's why he's on the bottom of my buy from list.
And another $15 for shipping! That's why he's on the bottom of my buy from list.
I don't think you can buy better wiring diagrams anywhere! You can easily spend $1,000 on wiring harnesses. Installing them shouldn't be like trying to put together a difficult puzzle. That's why the OoSoEz diagrams are so valuable. I finished the wiring on my '73 years ago and I still refer to these diagrams whenever I am installing some new electrical item.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I wasn't questioning the value of the diagrams - my problem is with the Dr's shipping policies. Seems like we get ripped off enough paying top dollar for Chinese junk parts without getting double ripped by a ridiculous shipping cost.
I wasn't questioning the value of the diagrams - my problem is with the Dr's shipping policies. Seems like we get ripped off enough paying top dollar for Chinese junk parts without getting double ripped by a ridiculous shipping cost.
That's for sure. I deal with parts quality issues at least once a day at work. If its not some crappy consolidation part you have to rig to fit then its made so poorly it just doesn't work. Then of course you have brakes, where you hardly ever get hardware in with the brake pads like you used to so you order it separately only to find out they're charging you $10-15 for one side so you have to buy a second set of hardware. theres my little rant on parts