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I had mine powder coated in pewter. Replicates the bare steel the factory left them. You'll want to remove the u joints. And make sure the grooves for the u joint lock clips do not get powdercoated. Most of the powdercoat guys know this and tape them off.
The color match was so close to bare cast iron steel, it was hard to differentiate between the bare uncoated gasket surface of the differential cover/housing and the pewter color coat.
I have items powder coated all the time. Usually aluminum but sometimes steel as well. Talk to the operator, let him know all concerns. They are usually very qualified and very responsible. I try to have my stuff coated at least twice with an additional sealer. So, actuall oven time is 3 Al
The color match was so close to bare cast iron steel, it was hard to differentiate between the bare uncoated gasket surface of the differential cover/housing and the pewter color coat.
Did you powder coat the rear or just the shafts? What color did you use? Looks great!
The color match was so close to bare cast iron steel, it was hard to differentiate between the bare uncoated gasket surface of the differential cover/housing and the pewter color coat.
Just the ends are cast. The shafts should be shinny with a bluish line where the shaft was welded from the heat.
As I've mentioned in other posts, nearly everything is powdercoated. Frame, all suspension pieces, brackets, you name it, most everything on the chassis has been powdercoated. The few parts I've painted has been blasted to bare and sprayed with a 2 part epoxy paint. I'm building my car the way I want it. Not exactly how it came from the factory. They always take the cheaper way out. And quite frankly not always the best. I know a little of this as I spent the first 5 yrs out of high school working on an auto assembly line. I want my car to look as good in 20 yrs as it does now.
Last edited by Sunstroked; Jul 26, 2013 at 08:50 PM.
[QUOTE=tjhphoto;1584506844]WOW, looks great, this is what I am looking for!! Do it once and be done forever.[/QUOTE
Thank you. Yes me too.
This is what a 40yr old original CA and AZ kept chassis looked like before. I don't see any blue lines where the half shafts were welded to the yokes. Do you?
WOW, looks great, this is what I am looking for!! Do it once and be done forever.[/QUOTE
Thank you. Yes me too.
This is what a 40yr old original CA and AZ kept chassis looked like before. I don't see any blue lines where the half shafts were welded to the yokes. Do you?
Obiously your not going to see it on a rusted part. Not trying to bust your ***** so please dont take it that way. Looks nice what you did. Just saying the tubes for the people that would like to know, were polished steel and where the tube were welded you will see the heat marks from welding. Keep up your good work and thanks for
the pewter tip because cast blast is a little to dark for parts I been doing so I will give pewter a try.
Hicswa, no offense taken. I'm aware of how the cars looked when they came off the assembly line. It all boils down to...how long will it stay that way. Maybe in a climate controlled environment, the bare steel will remain that way for 10-20 yrs. I personally live in the NV desert. It doesn't get much lower humidity than the SW desert. But my 10 yr old F150 has surface rust on the cast iron differential. No big deal. It's a hunting truck. My corvette is going to be strictly a Sunday driver and local car show entrant. We all enjoy are cars in different ways. I respect the person who does a full blown factory correct restoration. And I admire the few I've seen. The o.p. asked about powdercoating these parts. I have shown him what I have done.
Last edited by Sunstroked; Jul 28, 2013 at 04:11 PM.
I got a new set of half shafts from Corvette Central and spayed then with around six coats a Eastwood'd Diamond Clear. That was two years ago and they still look new. The car gets drive weekends, good weather only.