1982 Restoration
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 12
From: New York
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 12
From: New York
They are new aluminum pieces. The originals which are magnesium were at best a poor design. They are very susceptible to premature wear if there are any leaks with the green coolant due it's composition. I tried to refinish the originals by powdercoating them but I wasn't happy with the results and neither was my powdercoater. I will use Dexcool when I fill the system plus it isn't harmful to aluminum which is what most engines are made of in new vehicles.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,809
Likes: 236
From: Utah
I hope you did something with the rear end because I scattered three of them 30 years ago when I bought my first new Vette which was a 1980. I rebuilt the original motor and punched it out to a 355 with 11:1 pistons, big cam, etc., and for whatever reason it always seemed to let loose on a Saturday night around 2:30 AM
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 12
From: New York
I wondered if anybody was doing that. Back then I found a shop in Virginia that took an early 70's big block rear diff and modified my rear truss to fit that unit. They also set me up with big block half-shafts and the correct u-joints so everything bolted right up. I had then use 3:73 gears and I was running a turbo 350 with a mild stall converter. The car hooked up pretty good but looked all stock. The only problem was you could hear the cam.
