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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 07:00 AM
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Default Vapor lock?

Took the new 79 out yesterday for a drive into town. Husband drove the Mustang, and I let him drive the vette home. Stopped at the 4 way and when it was his turn to go the car stalled out. He got it to start right back up, then when he pushed the gas pedal it stalled out again. Then when he tried to start it, nothing. At all. Pushed it out of the road onto side parking, and let it sit for a minute while we looked at the battery and tried to figure it out. My plan was to go get the battery replaced Monday (today) , it's an '08 and I thought it would be going at some point soon, so may as well have a fresh one. The PO started the car up regularly even thought he rarely drove it to keep the battery working. After letting the car sit 5 minutes we tried it again and it started right up. On the way home we stopped at a friends to show him the car (he's a Porsche guy) and he said it could be vapor lock? Said the gas line gets a bubble? Taking it in tomorrow for a lookover by my mechanic and I'll tell him what happened but has anyone had this problem? Gotta get my bra drawer fund started for this car!
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 07:02 AM
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Otherwise, this car is fun, fun, fun to drive!! After driving it around town some, then driving the mustang it took me a minute to re-adjust to driving a newer car with tighter everything. But I LOVE this car
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:17 PM
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First thing to check is whether the stock fuel pump and lines are in place. Bubba loves to downgrade his cars by installing shiny aftermarket pumps that defeats the purpose of the bypass fuel line.
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
First thing to check is whether the stock fuel pump and lines are in place. Bubba loves to downgrade his cars by installing shiny aftermarket pumps that defeats the purpose of the bypass fuel line.


make sure there is a funtioning return line on the fuel pump
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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Okay, I have no shame....what is a "bra drawer" fund?
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:16 PM
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did you ever post up pictures of your engine?
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 03:08 PM
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Then when he tried to start it, nothing. At all.
If it didn't even crank may be heat soak on the starter.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 06:27 AM
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EasyMike, it's a sock drawer fund (for money for car repairs) with my bra drawer instead. I drove it yesterday to work, after work took it by my mechanics to make an appt to have it checked out, to State Farm to get it added to our account, to the tax office to pay my tax bill on it (which makes me mad to have to pay tax on something that's already HAD tax paid on it). This was all within a 3 mile radius, so it shouldn't have been TOO hot, even though it was 94 degrees. When I went to start it, after it had been sitting 15 minutes at the tax office, it was dead. My friend brought over his portable jumper and it started right up. He thought since the battery isn't in a mount in the compartment, maybe it shorted out rubbing against the grounded side? Anyway he followed me to my mechanics and I left it for them to look and get it going again. My friend thought it might be the alternator? Anyway, I'll have my mechanic check out the starter and fuel pump lines. I did post engine pics on a previous thread, but I'll do more after I get it back. Just in case there's anything ELSE obviously wrong. I hope this is the end of repairs for at least a little while. Wishing the PO had driven it a little more so these repairs would have been HIS repairs
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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Mine ran rough at first, but I think that's because it wasn't regularly driven. Nearly stalled out early on, but it hasn't done lately. <<knock on wood>>
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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Sorry but how are fuel pump and dead battery related? We jumped from vapour lock to 'won't crank' all in one paragraph.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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I had a serious "vapor lock" issue with my '78 last summer. The car would just stop and then after a while of calm reflection and mild cursing the car would start and run fine until the process was repeated. Diagnosed at Champion Motors as a vapor lock-like issue. Remedy was a return line to the gas tank and a fuel regulator pressure system installed. Not cheap but works great.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 03:52 PM
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My 1978 had vapor lock last year, turned out the heat riser was not functioning which funnels the hot exhaust from the drivers side thru the intake and out the drivers side exhaust hence heating up the intake for quicker warm ups in winter.

So my car kept pushing the hot exhaust gases thru the intake heating it up causeing the vapor lock
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopysvet

So my car kept pushing the hot exhaust gases thru the intake heating it up causeing the vapor lock
No, that's 'percolation', very different animal.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Sorry but how are fuel pump and dead battery related? We jumped from vapour lock to 'won't crank' all in one paragraph.
She was told it might be vapor lock and relayed that in her first post while asking for confirmation. She also made this statement in the first post: "Then when he tried to start it, nothing. At all."

It sounds like she could have 2 or 3 issues. Possible vapor lock, possible starter heat soak, and possible battery/alternator gremlins.

DC
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 08:01 AM
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My mechanic said it was the alternator (I also asked him to check out the rest of the engine while he had it for a couple of days, including the starter/fuel lines mentioned). I got a new battery (Optima), there was acid all over the bottom of the battery compartment. Fixing the horn that has not worked in years. The doors were difficult to open, he took the panels off and there was one part that wasn't properly connected, so now the doors open more easily, windows roll up/down better. He said the battery warning light will stop lighting up constantly (that has been on for years). So, I should get it back later today. Hopefully, it will be good for a little while!
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 08:04 AM
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He also said the charge was showing 16 volts when there should only be 12? I dunno. The battery was from 08 and I just wanted to have a new one so I won't have at least one thing to worry about for awhile.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by txdoglover
He also said the charge was showing 16 volts when there should only be 12? I dunno. The battery was from 08 and I just wanted to have a new one so I won't have at least one thing to worry about for awhile.
Getting 16 volts is an indication the regulator in the alternator was bad. It's possible the bad regulator was allowing the alternator to literally cook the battery which may explain the acid in the battery tray.

When the car is off with nothing running, a fully charged battery will read about 12.6 volts. When the engine is running, a good alternator will output about around 14.3 to 14.6 volts to charge the battery. The alternator output should drop off some once the battery is fully charged.

Hopefully the new alternator and battery will have your electrical system in top shape for awhile.

Are you still making the Mustang show in Lubbock this weekend? It's still up in the air as to whether I'll be in town.

DC
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 07:35 AM
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Thanks DC3, that explains the voltage problem. I am not sure if we are going to the show this weekend. That's a 4 hr drive each way and if we want to see our friends for dinner Friday night we'd have to leave 1 pm or so and work is crazy busy for both of us right now. The Mustang club is coming to Big Bend next weekend, so we'll probably do that instead. Of course, I'll have the only cool car there!
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 08:16 AM
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just a thought, but did he rebuild or replace the alternator. if he replaced it , you may want to get the old incase you want to restore the car later on.

my B-I-L replaced his holley carb when he first got his 68, now 15 years later he his restoring it and is looking for the right carb.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 08:41 AM
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I don't think this was the original alternator he was replacing. He knows I am keeping it stock and said that this alternator was?
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