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I am going to try and gravity bleed the brakes on my 81. How can I tell when each caliper is free of air? Should I just let it drip for 5 or 10minutes on each caliper? I know to start at the rear passengers side, then the rear drivers side, then the front passengers side and finally the front drivers side.
My 74 was sucking in air from a bad caliper, so what worked for me was raising the rear of the car with the wheels off, and pumping the brakes to build up pressure, removing the master cylinder lid, and opening each bleeder until the bubbles stopped, and just fluid was coming out. Didn't take that long, only a few seconds per bleeder. It was only the right rear that was bad, so the fronts were ok. I hope that helps, but I'm just a novice, and I'm sure others will offer much better advice!
The person who helped me owned a successful brake shop here in Phoenix for almost 25 years (he retired a few years ago). He said a pressure bleed was the only way to really remove the air from these brake systems. It has to do with the angle of the bleeders etc.
A plate goes on the master cylinder and the system is pressurized through that plate, forcing any air out as you open each bleeder.
Bottom line - when he was done the brakes in our '77 felt amazing.
5 to 10 minutes is way too long and will not accomplish anything.i am somewhat of an expert on this as i bought 5 bad calipers.i did not use any special device and got the job done slowly.what worked for me was short gravity bleed from nearest the master cylinder to the furthest.for a minute or so,then repeat.pump the pedal a few times,bleeders closed of course and repeat.now you should have some pedal.take the car around the block a few times and lean on the brakes to heat them up.you have to heat them or you will never get all the air out.get a friend for the last go round on the old pressure bleed method using the same sequence.worked every time for me.you could let it flow for an hour and never get all the air out.best of luck.