OK. What is the trick to get the strut rods with new bushings and caps back into the spindle part? Is there something that spreads the opening apart to push it in? I finally gave up after two hours and 50 mosquito bites tonight.... And, how do I tell apart my left from right shock mount?

 

The left and right hand shock mount, and the strut rod attach shaft that is an integral par, has a flat surface on the side at the end of the rod attach shaft. The spindle hole also has a little flat surface so that you cannot put the wrong shock mount/strut rod piece on the wrong side of the car.

Forget momentarily about the strut rod. Slide the shock mount into the spindle fork to make sure you've got the sides right...or left!!!!

Next, you should be able to slide the strut rod end into the spindle "fork" opening. I would expect you'd have to hammer it, I'd start out with a rubber hammer. Once it's hammered into place slide the shock mount bracket in and making sure the flat side mounts up to the spindle fork flat side, hammer it...once again with a rubber hammer for starts. Once you think things are working out right, maybe switch over to a metal hammer for the finishing blows.
............
I installed heim joint strut rods. They come with metal spacers. The heim joint and the spacers were not fitting. I used a micrometer and discovered I had to grind about 0.030 inches off the spacers to make them fit. If the strut rod bushings are not fitting you might want to use a micrometer and measure the bushing width and compare it with the spindle fork opening width.

 

Thanks for all the Info. Going by what you are saying it looks like I'll have to grind a heck of a lot off the spacers, or spread the spindle forks out because it isn't even close. I'll go measure both of them and see if the left and right spindle are close in width. I waited a month to get my trailing arms back from getting the bushings pressed in... I'm hoping this isn't a three day adventure for this..
Wish me luck...

 

OK. I am now throwing hammers and spanners. AND using a lot of "Even new to me" cuss words. I am trying to fit these damn things in an opening of 1.7mm when the ends with the bushings measures 1.7mm.. WITHOUT the Caps. These are Polyurethane bushings and I'm thinking I need ones that the rubber doesn't cover both ends. I'm not happy right now.
I don't suppose I could cut them down to remove the rubber on either side to make them flush? They are the split bushings.
Guess I have to order different ones....

 

Mine is a 73, but the lower strut rod doesn't have caps just the upper
end (6) that you adjust the strut with.



If you have poly, may be different, but I don't think it would be.

Donnie

 

So, maybe I don't need the caps with these bushings then. Humm. The pictures in the catalogue where I ordered from are a little hard to follow at times.

 

These are what I have. Do I just put them in, not needing caps for them? If so, no wonder they wouldn't fit.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G

 

I just installed the caps in the upper strut rod as in the AIM above.
Mine were the original strut rods and didn't have caps on the lower
end. I don't know why you would need caps in the lower because
you don't adjust the rod there. Someone that has a later model might
tell you if it is different than the 73, but I wouldn't think it would be.
You need the caps in the upper because that is were you make your
strut rod adjustment for camber.

Donnie

 

Contact C-Central and ask whether you need the caps.

 

Well, I just did that. As was mentioned, I only need them at the top under the pumpkin where the adjustments are made, not at the bottom. There goes 4 wasted hours and many grey hairs. Maybe it's time to step back for a couple weeks and take care of things around the house...

Thanks to all..

 

Not wasted. You learned something. You'd have eventually gotten the gray hair anyway.


One or two cold ones will help.