Rear brake rotor removal
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2013
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Rear brake rotor removal
I'm replacing the brakes on my 82 and stumped on the rear rotor. The old rotor had already been replaced so the rivets are drilled out already.
After removing the caliper the rotor should pull off the axle, correct? Its not budging.
After removing the caliper the rotor should pull off the axle, correct? Its not budging.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Tolland CT
This may seem silly, is the parking brake on? Maybe you need to back off on the parking brake adjustment if there is a ridge in the drum?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
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From: Hinckley OH
Sometimes they are just rusted to the spindle flange and you need penetrating oil and a few taps with a hammer. Depending on the amount of rust it could end up being heavy blows with a BFH.
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Thanks for the confirmation... the adjuster was frozen, penetrating spray and heating it has freed it some, but rotor is still stuck... I'll keep at it... I understand the adjuster can be cut to free it if worse comes to worst.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
If it's just the parking brakes that are preventing it from coming off the rotor will move because the brake shoe hold down springs will compress and allow the rotor to move a little bit. If you have no movement of the rotor at all then it is rust welded to the flange.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
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From: West Kingston RI
If it's just the parking brakes that are preventing it from coming off the rotor will move because the brake shoe hold down springs will compress and allow the rotor to move a little bit. If you have no movement of the rotor at all then it is rust welded to the flange.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2013
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The rotor is still frozen, not moving at all. I've beat on it, heated with a torch, and sprayed lots of penetrating spray. I think I need to remove the trailing arm/halfshaft assembly as a unit. Is that a good idea?
My concern is relieving tension on the monoleaf spring safely. How do I go about this?
My concern is relieving tension on the monoleaf spring safely. How do I go about this?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: Moncks Corner SC
Hi runningstart,
You should clamp a short piece of 2x4 to the spring about 8" from the end and then use your floor jack to lift the end of the spring placing the jack just inside (toward rotor) the 2x4. This will keep the jack from slipping as you slowly jack up on the spring. When there is no tension on the hanger bolt, remove the nut and slowly let the spring down.
Regards,
Bob
You should clamp a short piece of 2x4 to the spring about 8" from the end and then use your floor jack to lift the end of the spring placing the jack just inside (toward rotor) the 2x4. This will keep the jack from slipping as you slowly jack up on the spring. When there is no tension on the hanger bolt, remove the nut and slowly let the spring down.
Regards,
Bob
Last edited by carjack007; Aug 30, 2013 at 10:30 AM. Reason: Made mistake
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Got it, thanks. Just found this that article covers the procedure as well.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...t-replacement/
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...t-replacement/
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: Moncks Corner SC
Got it, thanks. Just found this that article covers the procedure as well.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...t-replacement/
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...t-replacement/
Bob
Thread Starter
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So far so good... Not quite but slightly intimidated by the trailing arm. I would like to get everything out and clean/paint the trailing arm and halfshaft. Whats come out so far needed to come out because the spring bushings need to be replaced.
Disconnecting monoleaf spring
Monoleaf spring bolt and bushings
Leaf spring and shock disconnected
Disconnecting monoleaf spring
Monoleaf spring bolt and bushings
Leaf spring and shock disconnected
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: Moncks Corner SC
If you're wanting to paint and detail the rear suspension, then go for it! Take pictures before and do count the shims on each side of the trailing arms. Completely removing the half shafts and the rear spring gives excellent access to the everything back there!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
I'm not sure why you think that removing the trailing arm is going to make it easier to remove the rotor. I know they can be difficult to remove but if you remove the trailing arm then you will have to somehow clamp it firmly down and still beat on the rotor to break the rust bond. I've had some success with putting a large gear puller on the rotor and putting some pressure (but not enough to bend the rotor) and striking the flange area with a BIG METAL hammer. You really need to shock it to break the bond and a rubber mallet isn't going to do much if it's bonded well.
By the way, have you marked the rotor and a stud so you can put it on in exactly the same position it is now? Putting it on in a different orientation can cause runout problems.
By the way, have you marked the rotor and a stud so you can put it on in exactly the same position it is now? Putting it on in a different orientation can cause runout problems.
Last edited by my 76 ray; Aug 30, 2013 at 02:30 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: Moncks Corner SC
I'm not sure why you think that removing the trailing arm is going to make it easier to remove the rotor. I know they can be difficult to remove but if you remove the trailing arm then you will have to somehow clamp it firmly down and still beat on the rotor to break the rust bond. I've had some success with putting a large gear puller on the rotor and putting some pressure (but not enough to bend the rotor) and striking the flange area with a BIG METAL hammer. You really need to shock it to break the bond and a rubber mallet isn't going to do much if it's bonded well.
By the way, have you marked the rotor and a stud so you can put it on in exactly the same position it is now? Putting it on in a different orientation can cause runout problems.
By the way, have you marked the rotor and a stud so you can put it on in exactly the same position it is now? Putting it on in a different orientation can cause runout problems.
You have to have the shock from a big hammer!
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I see your point. It won't hurt to keep beating on it in place. And once its off I can probably clean and paint well enough without removing the assembly. I'll look for a large gear puller.
As far as marking the rotor, I'm replacing the rotor so, no, haven't marked it.
As far as marking the rotor, I'm replacing the rotor so, no, haven't marked it.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: Moncks Corner SC
I see your point. It won't hurt to keep beating on it in place. And once its off I can probably clean and paint well enough without removing the assembly. I'll look for a large gear puller.
As far as marking the rotor, I'm replacing the rotor so, no, haven't marked it.
As far as marking the rotor, I'm replacing the rotor so, no, haven't marked it.
Bob