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I'm thinking of replacing mine, to get the fiber optics working. Looks pretty easy under the hood. How much work is it to get the fiberoptics routed through the firewall, and what needs to come apart in the interior? thanks
Its really not that bad except for getting the optic harness in the clip at the top of the dash pad, it's bolted on by the defrost duct. To do this you can remove the right pad and upper pad which really isn't that hard. This gets the optic harness over the speedo and tach and then it drops down to the shift console.
You will also need to remove the optic plate in the shift console.. this will allow you to attach the sub assembly to the plate.
Another trick I learned when doing my own 1970 was that the nipples on the ends of the headlamp bulbs were supposed to have a "guiding" grommet on them. You place this grommet on the nipple and it guides light to the optics when the connector is in place. I made these from some small vacuum hose by placing it on the nipple and then cutting it about 1/8" longer... worked like a champ and has been in there for about 15 years.
The other thing is to make sure you remove the bolt from the center of the two harness's at the firewall. They snap together and then plug in as one with a bolt in the middle.
There are instructions on how to remove the right pad and upper pad on my site.
Its really not that bad except for getting the optic harness in the clip at the top of the dash pad, it's bolted on by the defrost duct. To do this you can remove the right pad and upper pad which really isn't that hard. This gets the optic harness over the speedo and tach and then it drops down to the shift console.
You will also need to remove the optic plate in the shift console.. this will allow you to attach the sub assembly to the plate.
Another trick I learned when doing my own 1970 was that the nipples on the ends of the headlamp bulbs were supposed to have a "guiding" grommet on them. You place this grommet on the nipple and it guides light to the optics when the connector is in place. I made these from some small vacuum hose by placing it on the nipple and then cutting it about 1/8" longer... worked like a champ and has been in there for about 15 years.
The other thing is to make sure you remove the bolt from the center of the two harness's at the firewall. They snap together and then plug in as one with a bolt in the middle.
There are instructions on how to remove the right pad and upper pad on my site.
Willcox
Thanks ...will check it out... Never would have known about the bolt holding on the clip at the firewall
The two harness's kind of slide together.. then you screw the bolt down... You'll see when you take it apart.. And keep an eye out for this weekends sale.. you might snag a good coupon..
...Never would have known about the bolt holding on the clip at the firewall...
It's in the AIM. If you make the replacement, the AIM diagrams can help.
Are you sure to need to replace it? If the fiber optics are not cut, you can often clean them up. Keep in mind, the lens in the bezel on the console can get crudded up and decrease the light values. Makes you think you need FO when all you really need is to clean the lens.
It's in the AIM. If you make the replacement, the AIM diagrams can help.
Are you sure to need to replace it? If the fiber optics are not cut, you can often clean them up. Keep in mind, the lens in the bezel on the console can get crudded up and decrease the light values. Makes you think you need FO when all you really need is to clean the lens.
Went to replace the headlamps yesterday, which turned out to be an adventure. Couldn't get the bezel out, and finally had to remove the lower washer fitting.
Got the plug unhooked from the lamp, and discovered the fiberoptic tip was broken off and only a small strand could be seen deep in the plug.
Also it looks like the new Sylvania lamps don't have the nipple for the fiber optic connection. So I just put it all back together.
I wonder if one could wire a small LED between the positive and negative on the plug, right over the fiber optic port, and seal it with silicon, so that when the head lamp comes on the LED would as well, enabling the newer head lamps to be used.
Went to replace the headlamps yesterday, which turned out to be an adventure. Couldn't get the bezel out, and finally had to remove the lower washer fitting.
Got the plug unhooked from the lamp, and discovered the fiberoptic tip was broken off and only a small strand could be seen deep in the plug.
Also it looks like the new Sylvania lamps don't have the nipple for the fiber optic connection. So I just put it all back together.
I wonder if one could wire a small LED between the positive and negative on the plug, right over the fiber optic port, and seal it with silicon, so that when the head lamp comes on the LED would as well, enabling the newer head lamps to be used.
I did find one T3 bulb
I saw a LED conversion for the fiberoptic's somewhere just recently.
You don't need the expensive T3 bulbs. In my thread here about the subject, I just bought the inexpensive bulbs from Willcox and they did have the correct tip for the fiber optics.
You don't need the expensive T3 bulbs. In my thread here about the subject, I just bought the inexpensive bulbs from Willcox and they did have the correct tip for the fiber optics.
Bad news... they discontinued the generic bulbs with the **** on them..
LED lamps could be used as a replacement. However, the optic system was put in place to let you know when a lamp is working/not working. LED would just light up all the time regardless of the lamp function.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Sep 20, 2013 at 09:42 AM.