Please help me ID this engine. ...
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Instructor
Joined: May 2010
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From: conway arkansas
Please help me ID this engine. ...
The back of the block is 14010207, this I can find, but I can't find anything on the deck stamp:
CAZ106892
These numbers were also on deck plate:
1004TDR or 10041DR
CAZ106892
These numbers were also on deck plate:
1004TDR or 10041DR
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: conway arkansas
Team Owner
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
No. http://www.clubhotrod.com/chevy-smal...4010207-a.html
The TDR suffix identifies the specific configuration.
The TDR suffix identifies the specific configuration.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: conway arkansas
No. http://www.clubhotrod.com/chevy-smal...4010207-a.html
The TDR suffix identifies the specific configuration.
The TDR suffix identifies the specific configuration.
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Racer
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From: Klein Texas
Wouldn't that be the prefix? 
When I lookup TDR I come up with Truck 350 1972 or 1980.
CAZ ,I think, is part of the VIN sequence. Trucks did not have their VIN's on the pad in '72 and were 010 blocks (350).
When I lookup TDR I come up with Truck 350 1972 or 1980.CAZ ,I think, is part of the VIN sequence. Trucks did not have their VIN's on the pad in '72 and were 010 blocks (350).
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From: conway arkansas
Le Mans Master
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From: Tampa Florida
Check this site:
http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine...ngs.php#suffix
It's correct for my '71 LS5 with a CPH suffix.
Also, casting # 14010207 listed here:
http://outintheshop.com/faq/casting/castings2.html
14010207= 1980-1985, 350, car & Truck 2 & 4-Bolt Passenger stick
http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine...ngs.php#suffix
It's correct for my '71 LS5 with a CPH suffix.
Also, casting # 14010207 listed here:
http://outintheshop.com/faq/casting/castings2.html
14010207= 1980-1985, 350, car & Truck 2 & 4-Bolt Passenger stick
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Nov 10, 2013 at 01:43 PM.
Race Director
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The OP has a 14010207 casting number that didn't exist till 1980.
3973487X heads were used on all sorts of cars and trucks, not just LT1.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Klein Texas
I still own a '72 K20 Suburban but it has a Corvette engine (really a L82).
I'm a member on the forum too and the experts over there say no VIN's on the truck blocks.
It's a question that gets ask regularly.
I'm a member on the forum too and the experts over there say no VIN's on the truck blocks.
It's a question that gets ask regularly.
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Instructor
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From: conway arkansas
I know, I've been reading so many different articles and some say truck, some say it was only made 80-85 and some say 2 or 4 bolt. The only thing I know for sure is that it is not an LT1:-(
Race Director
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If you want precise info:
1980 TDR: a/t, California, C-10 & 15 trucks, VIN starts with L, RPO LS9 155HP, 4 barrel
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From: conway arkansas
Drifting
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From: Forth Worth TX
What is redline on the tach? If it is 6500rpm it could be an LT-1 or it could have a replacement tach installed.
If it has a tach with a lesser redline (5200, 5600) it most likely isn't an LT-1.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Belmont Michigan
It's already been established that your engine is an early '80s 350 (didn't the seller tell you it was matching numbers?) and I would have to say it's most likely that it was a base motor auto from the factory. Just enjoy it for what it is, unless you want to go back on the seller.
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From: conway arkansas
[QUOTE=MidShark;1585400347]On your other thread you say the car is an automatic. While not completely out of the realm of possibility, I find it highly unlikely that someone converted the 4-speed to an automatic (NO LT-1s came with an auto, despite what the seller told you). You can check the tach as recommended, the car would have a single fuel line (no return line), it would have the heavy duty half-shalfs with caps and bolts (not u-bolts), and there should still be a transistorized ignition amplifier hidden on the headight side of the driver's front inner fender, along with the wiring for the amp running along the harness on the driver's side. I wouldn't hold my breath on finding any of those things.
It's already been established that your engine is an early '80s 350 (didn't the seller tell you it was matching numbers?) and I would have to say it's most likely that it was a base motor auto from the factory. Just enjoy it for what it is, unless you want to go back on the seller.[/
I do believe after looking for all the signs of an LT1, that you are right, base model automatic:-(
Now its a question of value? Is 12k fair or to much??
It's already been established that your engine is an early '80s 350 (didn't the seller tell you it was matching numbers?) and I would have to say it's most likely that it was a base motor auto from the factory. Just enjoy it for what it is, unless you want to go back on the seller.
[/I do believe after looking for all the signs of an LT1, that you are right, base model automatic:-(
Now its a question of value? Is 12k fair or to much??
Safety Car
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From: Indy Indiana
people have paid more for a less condition car.. and they have paid less for a better condition car.. if I was looking, I would probably pay 12K for a decent condition 71. you are in the ballpark...still depends on the condition of the car since its originality has been determined. Since it is NOM, then most of the originality premium is thrown out the window. the price basis is more properly determined by its condition.