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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:16 AM
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Default Please help me ID this engine. ...

The back of the block is 14010207, this I can find, but I can't find anything on the deck stamp:
CAZ106892
These numbers were also on deck plate:
1004TDR or 10041DR
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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80-85 Chevy truck...going by the block casting number alone, likely used for other applications

Last edited by BOSTONCAMARO; Nov 11, 2013 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by BOSTONCAMARO
80-85 Chevy truck...
Did you find that off of casting number? I found that this block was also used in 80-85 vette's

What I can't find is info on the deck plate numbers.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:31 AM
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What would be the value of a 71 in good condition but not numbers matching?
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Land Shark
...Did you find that off of casting number?...
No. http://www.clubhotrod.com/chevy-smal...4010207-a.html

The TDR suffix identifies the specific configuration.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
No. http://www.clubhotrod.com/chevy-smal...4010207-a.html

The TDR suffix identifies the specific configuration.
Thanks, so much for this being an LT1!!!
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 11:33 AM
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Cyclinder heades seem to match LT1
3973487X

But I assume this doesn't make it numbers matching or period correct?
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 11:51 AM
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Do you have any idea what the CAZ suffix is for?
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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Wouldn't that be the prefix? When I lookup TDR I come up with Truck 350 1972 or 1980.

CAZ ,I think, is part of the VIN sequence. Trucks did not have their VIN's on the pad in '72 and were 010 blocks (350).
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by David Mc
Wouldn't that be the prefix? When I lookup TDR I come up with Truck 350 1972 or 1980.

CAZ ,I think, is part of the VIN sequence. Trucks did not have their VIN's on the pad in '72 and were 010 blocks (350).
That's why I come here, for good info!
Thanks
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 01:27 PM
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Check this site:

http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine...ngs.php#suffix

It's correct for my '71 LS5 with a CPH suffix.

Also, casting # 14010207 listed here:

http://outintheshop.com/faq/casting/castings2.html

14010207= 1980-1985, 350, car & Truck 2 & 4-Bolt Passenger stick

Last edited by 71 Green 454; Nov 10, 2013 at 01:43 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by David Mc
Wouldn't that be the prefix? When I lookup TDR I come up with Truck 350 1972 or 1980.

CAZ ,I think, is part of the VIN sequence. Trucks did not have their VIN's on the pad in '72 and were 010 blocks (350).
Pretty sure they did have VINs on the pads at least on light trucks that used the 0010 blocks.

The OP has a 14010207 casting number that didn't exist till 1980.

3973487X heads were used on all sorts of cars and trucks, not just LT1.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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I still own a '72 K20 Suburban but it has a Corvette engine (really a L82).

I'm a member on the forum too and the experts over there say no VIN's on the truck blocks.

It's a question that gets ask regularly.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by David Mc
I still own a '72 K20 Suburban but it has a Corvette engine (really a L82).

I'm a member on the forum too and the experts over there say no VIN's on the truck blocks.

It's a question that gets ask regularly.
I know, I've been reading so many different articles and some say truck, some say it was only made 80-85 and some say 2 or 4 bolt. The only thing I know for sure is that it is not an LT1:-(
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Land Shark
I know, I've been reading so many different articles and some say truck, some say it was only made 80-85 and some say 2 or 4 bolt. The only thing I know for sure is that it is not an LT1:-(
NO, ALL the posts say 1980 truck.

If you want precise info:

1980 TDR: a/t, California, C-10 & 15 trucks, VIN starts with L, RPO LS9 155HP, 4 barrel
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
NO, ALL the posts say 1980 truck.

If you want precise info:

1980 TDR: a/t, California, C-10 & 15 trucks, VIN starts with L, RPO LS9 155HP, 4 barrel
Do you know where I can find numbers on frame and rear end to tell if it was LT1
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Land Shark
Do you know where I can find numbers on frame and rear end to tell if it was LT1
There is nothing on the frame or rearend to identify an LT-1.

What is redline on the tach? If it is 6500rpm it could be an LT-1 or it could have a replacement tach installed.
If it has a tach with a lesser redline (5200, 5600) it most likely isn't an LT-1.
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Land Shark
Do you know where I can find numbers on frame and rear end to tell if it was LT1
On your other thread you say the car is an automatic. While not completely out of the realm of possibility, I find it highly unlikely that someone converted the 4-speed to an automatic (NO LT-1s came with an auto, despite what the seller told you). You can check the tach as recommended, the car would have a single fuel line (no return line), it would have the heavy duty half-shalfs with caps and bolts (not u-bolts), and there should still be a transistorized ignition amplifier hidden on the headight side of the driver's front inner fender, along with the wiring for the amp running along the harness on the driver's side. I wouldn't hold my breath on finding any of those things.
It's already been established that your engine is an early '80s 350 (didn't the seller tell you it was matching numbers?) and I would have to say it's most likely that it was a base motor auto from the factory. Just enjoy it for what it is, unless you want to go back on the seller.
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 11:13 AM
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[QUOTE=MidShark;1585400347]On your other thread you say the car is an automatic. While not completely out of the realm of possibility, I find it highly unlikely that someone converted the 4-speed to an automatic (NO LT-1s came with an auto, despite what the seller told you). You can check the tach as recommended, the car would have a single fuel line (no return line), it would have the heavy duty half-shalfs with caps and bolts (not u-bolts), and there should still be a transistorized ignition amplifier hidden on the headight side of the driver's front inner fender, along with the wiring for the amp running along the harness on the driver's side. I wouldn't hold my breath on finding any of those things.
It's already been established that your engine is an early '80s 350 (didn't the seller tell you it was matching numbers?) and I would have to say it's most likely that it was a base motor auto from the factory. Just enjoy it for what it is, unless you want to go back on the seller.[/

I do believe after looking for all the signs of an LT1, that you are right, base model automatic:-(
Now its a question of value? Is 12k fair or to much??
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 11:54 AM
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people have paid more for a less condition car.. and they have paid less for a better condition car.. if I was looking, I would probably pay 12K for a decent condition 71. you are in the ballpark...still depends on the condition of the car since its originality has been determined. Since it is NOM, then most of the originality premium is thrown out the window. the price basis is more properly determined by its condition.
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