Suspension Spring Reposition
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Suspension Spring Reposition
After r & r'ing the ball joints and replacing the springs, I tried to install the front shocks on this '73. But I found interference when running the shock up the tunnel to the upper hole mount. On closer look....
...the spring isn't seated properly in it's upper seat!
My question is: has anyone here done this and reposition the spring by prying on it into place(with or without a spring compressor), or did you have to just remove the upper ball joint and start over?
Both sides are like this.
I'm very good at things like this.
...the spring isn't seated properly in it's upper seat!
My question is: has anyone here done this and reposition the spring by prying on it into place(with or without a spring compressor), or did you have to just remove the upper ball joint and start over?
Both sides are like this.
I'm very good at things like this.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
I use a spring compressor.
I run the spring compressor up thru the spring, and thru the shock mount. I then tighten the compressor, and compress the spring up into the mount. You need to make sure to compress the spring from around the third coil, so that there is room to remove the compressor after the upper joint is attached.
The compressor I borrowed from Advance Auto would not work doing this, the screw was too large to fit thru the shock mount, but the cheap one they sell works great.
I run the spring compressor up thru the spring, and thru the shock mount. I then tighten the compressor, and compress the spring up into the mount. You need to make sure to compress the spring from around the third coil, so that there is room to remove the compressor after the upper joint is attached.
The compressor I borrowed from Advance Auto would not work doing this, the screw was too large to fit thru the shock mount, but the cheap one they sell works great.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,738
Likes: 644
From: Lincoln, CA
I ran into the same thing. Before you but pressure on the spring make sure it's in place.
I left the threaded rod on the shock hole to keep the spring from falling all the way over.
I separated the ball joint and lowed the arm to get give the spring enough room to enter the pocket. Lowered the threaded rod down the hole and raised the arm a little at a time. Keep checking the spring location.
When you get close by raising the arm the spring will settle into place.
Forgot to add I also used a bungee cord near the top of the spring and attached the other end to keep the spring in place.
I left the threaded rod on the shock hole to keep the spring from falling all the way over.
I separated the ball joint and lowed the arm to get give the spring enough room to enter the pocket. Lowered the threaded rod down the hole and raised the arm a little at a time. Keep checking the spring location.
When you get close by raising the arm the spring will settle into place.
Forgot to add I also used a bungee cord near the top of the spring and attached the other end to keep the spring in place.
Last edited by ddawson; Nov 14, 2013 at 05:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Thanks for the input guys.
I tried prying the top area of the spring in place. HA! That thing wasnt movin' fer anythang!
Didn't have the right spring compressor either, so decided to do it right and start over.
Disconnected the swaybar, supported the bottom arm with a floor jack, and removed the nut from the upper ball joint. About 6 or 7 whacks with a hammer on the knuckle where the ball joint was, and apart it came. Removed the nut, jacked it down, and repositioned the spring, this time more carefully. Jacked it up into place, and just before I had enough upper ball joint thru the knucle to put the nut on, BANG! it seated in place. Took a look from up top down thru the spring: All Good! Jacked a litte more, installed ball joint nut, torqued, pinned, done. Now the shock goes in.
Get to do the other side tomorrow.
I tried prying the top area of the spring in place. HA! That thing wasnt movin' fer anythang!
Didn't have the right spring compressor either, so decided to do it right and start over.
Disconnected the swaybar, supported the bottom arm with a floor jack, and removed the nut from the upper ball joint. About 6 or 7 whacks with a hammer on the knuckle where the ball joint was, and apart it came. Removed the nut, jacked it down, and repositioned the spring, this time more carefully. Jacked it up into place, and just before I had enough upper ball joint thru the knucle to put the nut on, BANG! it seated in place. Took a look from up top down thru the spring: All Good! Jacked a litte more, installed ball joint nut, torqued, pinned, done. Now the shock goes in.
Get to do the other side tomorrow.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,333
Likes: 786
From: Redondo Beach, California
Yep, a BF hammer is your friend.
I don't use a spring compressor. I chain a floor jack up to the frame and then jack the lower control arm up until I get ball joint connectively. It's so much easier. I did this on my open frame 70. On my 68 I did use spring compressors.......I don't know..with a body on car, will the chain the floor jack to the frame still work? One thing, with an open frame, compressing the front spring with a floor jack is just a piece of cake.
(Open frame...repeat, with the floor jack chained to the frame.)
I don't use a spring compressor. I chain a floor jack up to the frame and then jack the lower control arm up until I get ball joint connectively. It's so much easier. I did this on my open frame 70. On my 68 I did use spring compressors.......I don't know..with a body on car, will the chain the floor jack to the frame still work? One thing, with an open frame, compressing the front spring with a floor jack is just a piece of cake.
(Open frame...repeat, with the floor jack chained to the frame.)
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Did you check that the end of the spring is covering ~1/2 of the inspection hole? That's the indication that the spring is seated correctly. I found that when raising the spring in the pocket it helped to pry it over a bit with a crowbar to help the spring pop into the upper pocket. If you have the spring compressed enough to allow it to turn you can align it using the inspection hole. I stuck a screwdriver into the inspection hole and turned the spring until it hit the screwdriver. The assembly manual doesn't mention lower pocket alignment so I woouldn't worry about that, especially if you have an aftermarket spring.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Thanks for the help everyone.
Rick,
I noticed the bottom arm's spring seat does have an indent, of which I assumed was where the spring end nicely fits. I read somewhere that the spring's end is to be within a 1/2" of the end of that indent. I believe that's what you're refering to with the inspection hole. Correct?
Steve
Rick,
I noticed the bottom arm's spring seat does have an indent, of which I assumed was where the spring end nicely fits. I read somewhere that the spring's end is to be within a 1/2" of the end of that indent. I believe that's what you're refering to with the inspection hole. Correct?
Steve
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Thanks for the help everyone.
Rick,
I noticed the bottom arm's spring seat does have an indent, of which I assumed was where the spring end nicely fits. I read somewhere that the spring's end is to be within a 1/2" of the end of that indent. I believe that's what you're refering to with the inspection hole. Correct?
Steve
Rick,
I noticed the bottom arm's spring seat does have an indent, of which I assumed was where the spring end nicely fits. I read somewhere that the spring's end is to be within a 1/2" of the end of that indent. I believe that's what you're refering to with the inspection hole. Correct?
Steve
Rick B.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Gotchya Rick.
I can see why the top spring end should be visable; the indent looks like a spring's end would fit right in there.
Just looked at the upper hole on both sides of my car: No spring. I know the springs are seated correctly in their bottom leaf indents (end of spring sits right in it). They are MOOG brand. Perhaps that might have something to do with it.
Now I never bolted on the tires yet and let the car settle on the ground. Perhaps that might seat the springs further. It's still on jackstands, as my next step is to install the steering components.
Thanks for the insight Rick.
Steve
I can see why the top spring end should be visable; the indent looks like a spring's end would fit right in there.
Just looked at the upper hole on both sides of my car: No spring. I know the springs are seated correctly in their bottom leaf indents (end of spring sits right in it). They are MOOG brand. Perhaps that might have something to do with it.
Now I never bolted on the tires yet and let the car settle on the ground. Perhaps that might seat the springs further. It's still on jackstands, as my next step is to install the steering components.
Thanks for the insight Rick.
Steve
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 167
Likes: 2
From: BLACKSBURG VA
Suspension spring relocation
Take your BF Hammer and smack the sides of the spring. Of course the vehicle needs to be suspended so the spring is not compressed by the weight of the vehicle. Hit it hard enough and it will jump into its proper place and you won't have to unbutton everything and start over. It worked for me.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Take your BF Hammer and smack the sides of the spring. Of course the vehicle needs to be suspended so the spring is not compressed by the weight of the vehicle. Hit it hard enough and it will jump into its proper place and you won't have to unbutton everything and start over. It worked for me.
Rick B.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
No, I'm referring to the upper spring pocket. The pic I'm enclosing is crappy but it shows the end of the spring in the upper pocket. The blob at the bottom is the upper shock hardware. The hole in the bottom pocket may just be a drain hole but I'm not certain.
Rick B.
Rick B.