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Ok great thanks, did you do what was suggested about setting the idle? Having the car in "D" while setting it? And was it hard to set the balance?
Not at all. Put some large landscape stones in front of the tires (parking brake worthless). Put in D. Driver side set to 6", passenger side adjusted to 6", back to driver side to check again - minor tweak, back to passenger side and driver side for final confirmation all is right and done.
Ok great thanks, did you do what was suggested about setting the idle? Having the car in "D" while setting it? And was it hard to set the balance?
Yes I did, but I didn't set it to 475, I set it to 550, that just seemed better to me, and I did it in D, with my daughter holding the brakes. Setting the balance wasn't hard at all. Just be patient and take your time. Don't forget to reset the TPS after you are done. Do you have WinALDL and the cable? If not, get it!
Yes I did, but I didn't set it to 475, I set it to 550, that just seemed better to me, and I did it in D, with my daughter holding the brakes. Setting the balance wasn't hard at all. Just be patient and take your time. Don't forget to reset the TPS after you are done. Do you have WinALDL and the cable? If not, get it!
You mean .525 right not 525? Common for people to set the decimal point at the wrong place.
Yes, TPS set to .525. The numbers I stated above were idle RPM.
You mean engine off key on? Not sure if it would make a difference with the engine at idle but it may. Check and see if it stayed at .525 with the engine off
Silly question but you do have the arm on the right side? It moves when you move the throttle linkage?
Engine off, key on was how I set it. Yes, I had the arm on the correct side, lol. I tested the tps thru full travel with the engine off, it worked just fine, no jumps or hiccups. Other than the CEL, the car is set up nicely. I'm still working on finding out what is making it throw the code. I'll be replacing the knock sensor soon just to eliminate the possibility that it's just a bad sensor.
Engine off, key on was how I set it. Yes, I had the arm on the correct side, lol. I tested the tps thru full travel with the engine off, it worked just fine, no jumps or hiccups. Other than the CEL, the car is set up nicely. I'm still working on finding out what is making it throw the code. I'll be replacing the knock sensor soon just to eliminate the possibility that it's just a bad sensor.
I'm getting threads mixed up. Are you able to start the car with no codes by tapping the gas pedal before start up. If so get it going with no cell and unplug the knock sensor. The system is to primativr to pick up a bad knock sensor.
Otherwise clear the codes and then disconnect the knock sensor and see if the light comes on
Good question... Like I say I ran mine for awhile because of header clearance issues but was too paranoid of damaging something so I removed the headers and put the stock manifolds back on. During that time I never got a CEL. I did however replaced the knock sensor with a newer cheaper design from the TPI motors.
Not that I know off. I have never heard of one going but have heard of ones damaged. You can only do a visual. It's mostly corrosion that damages them. That's why I keep saying to check the connectors.
I had a similar problem with codes. It turned out to be severe corrosion on one of the connectors behind the cover on the passenger side firewall. That's where all the connectors are that joint the engine compartment wiring to the cab