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I have the problem to stump everyone

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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Drawmain
Balanced my TBs tonite. Still get the CEL codes. What else to check? The partially depressed pedal didn't work either. Stumped.
Did you balance them with a manometer or with the gauge that Larry posted?
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #22  
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I made up my own manometer. I used a yard stick and some clear tubing. Here's a link:
http://www.thecubestudio.com/Crossfi...tManometer.htm
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 11:36 AM
  #23  
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Ok great thanks, did you do what was suggested about setting the idle? Having the car in "D" while setting it? And was it hard to set the balance?
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 03:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by alconk
Ok great thanks, did you do what was suggested about setting the idle? Having the car in "D" while setting it? And was it hard to set the balance?
Not at all. Put some large landscape stones in front of the tires (parking brake worthless). Put in D. Driver side set to 6", passenger side adjusted to 6", back to driver side to check again - minor tweak, back to passenger side and driver side for final confirmation all is right and done.
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 04:36 PM
  #25  
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glad my '72s not an '82
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 06:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dgr72vette
glad my '72s not an '82
Well then why are you replying to this thread? I take it as a condescending remark.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:17 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by alconk
Ok great thanks, did you do what was suggested about setting the idle? Having the car in "D" while setting it? And was it hard to set the balance?
Yes I did, but I didn't set it to 475, I set it to 550, that just seemed better to me, and I did it in D, with my daughter holding the brakes. Setting the balance wasn't hard at all. Just be patient and take your time. Don't forget to reset the TPS after you are done. Do you have WinALDL and the cable? If not, get it!
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 07:22 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by alconk
Well then why are you replying to this thread? I take it as a condescending remark.
Because it sounds like a real pain in the *** problem that earlier cars don't have to deal with...don't get so defensive
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 08:36 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Drawmain
Yes I did, but I didn't set it to 475, I set it to 550, that just seemed better to me, and I did it in D, with my daughter holding the brakes. Setting the balance wasn't hard at all. Just be patient and take your time. Don't forget to reset the TPS after you are done. Do you have WinALDL and the cable? If not, get it!
You mean .525 right not 525? Common for people to set the decimal point at the wrong place.

Jim
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 09:03 AM
  #30  
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Yes, TPS set to .525. The numbers I stated above were idle RPM.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Drawmain
Yes, TPS set to .525. The numbers I stated above were idle RPM.
You mean engine off key on? Not sure if it would make a difference with the engine at idle but it may. Check and see if it stayed at .525 with the engine off

Silly question but you do have the arm on the right side? It moves when you move the throttle linkage?

Last edited by jdp6000; Dec 22, 2013 at 10:43 AM.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 11:05 AM
  #32  
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Engine off, key on was how I set it. Yes, I had the arm on the correct side, lol. I tested the tps thru full travel with the engine off, it worked just fine, no jumps or hiccups. Other than the CEL, the car is set up nicely. I'm still working on finding out what is making it throw the code. I'll be replacing the knock sensor soon just to eliminate the possibility that it's just a bad sensor.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Drawmain
Engine off, key on was how I set it. Yes, I had the arm on the correct side, lol. I tested the tps thru full travel with the engine off, it worked just fine, no jumps or hiccups. Other than the CEL, the car is set up nicely. I'm still working on finding out what is making it throw the code. I'll be replacing the knock sensor soon just to eliminate the possibility that it's just a bad sensor.
I'm getting threads mixed up. Are you able to start the car with no codes by tapping the gas pedal before start up. If so get it going with no cell and unplug the knock sensor. The system is to primativr to pick up a bad knock sensor.

Otherwise clear the codes and then disconnect the knock sensor and see if the light comes on
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #34  
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I ran my car with the knock sensor unplugged for a couple of months and never threw a code. I think it should have but didn't.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 06:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dgr72vette
Because it sounds like a real pain in the *** problem that earlier cars don't have to deal with...don't get so defensive
Yea they can be and I apologize.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 12:35 PM
  #36  
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So if I run it without the knock sensor and get no CEL, does that mean the sensor is bad?
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 02:03 PM
  #37  
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Good question... Like I say I ran mine for awhile because of header clearance issues but was too paranoid of damaging something so I removed the headers and put the stock manifolds back on. During that time I never got a CEL. I did however replaced the knock sensor with a newer cheaper design from the TPI motors.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Drawmain
So if I run it without the knock sensor and get no CEL, does that mean the sensor is bad?
It's a fair assumption provided all the connectors are good and the ESC isn't fried.

Did you ever check and clean the connectors?
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 05:32 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
It's a fair assumption provided all the connectors are good and the ESC isn't fried.

Did you ever check and clean the connectors?
Is there a way to check the ESC?
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 05:39 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by alconk
Is there a way to check the ESC?
Not that I know off. I have never heard of one going but have heard of ones damaged. You can only do a visual. It's mostly corrosion that damages them. That's why I keep saying to check the connectors.

I had a similar problem with codes. It turned out to be severe corrosion on one of the connectors behind the cover on the passenger side firewall. That's where all the connectors are that joint the engine compartment wiring to the cab
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