OK, this is going on a mechanical tach-drive car. Obviously pre-1975. So school me on what happens to the wire from the coil to the terminal (I think "R" but perhaps "S") on the starter that used to limit full 12V to the points. Where do the yellow and red wires on that new distributor go? I have been tempted to go HEI on my 1974 but never got the wiring straight in my mind. As well I just replaced the 7mm plug wires and would have to go 8mm. Any advice?

*Edit* - My new wires are 8mm.

 

One thing is for sure...

We, the majority, certainly went way past " TIMING 101"...but education was surely needed on this subject evidently...and now for all future timing headshakers....timing will be so much easier thanks to our posts from us...the retards of the Corvette world, except for the closed minds who will never learn.

 

That's the way I wanna go.
I had a hunch that, as far as operating capability, #1 could be any tower. This replacement distributor ain't stock, so no external coil or points with this one. But the tach cable does require the body to be positioned one way for join-up, so that part of my question was answered before the thread started.

Mike; Thank you for the photo. Can't beat visuals for explanations to dunces like me.

Let's close this thread, , unless more laughs are in order.

 

No need for 8mm wires, 7mm are just fine. You can go to HEI if you want, but will (as stated many many times and backed up by dyno tests) gain nothing.

The wiring is simple. Switched 12V to the distributor.

 

Thank JohnZ on the C2 side, he's posted it many times for the benefit of other online retards.

 

Very good. I almost missed this one. Merry Christmas to all. mike...

 

I still run a stock original non-hei distributor on my vette...it works super good.

On my 49 Chevy fleetline with a hot 283 with a HEI dist, the wire marked tach goes to an electric tach....and the other BAT wire terminal( probably the red one) comes straight off the starter switch from the switched power side ( not the full time power side).

On my 68, one wire hooked to the coil I think it is, is a resistor wire, it is a light tan color and the wire coming from the starter will not be needed by the new HEI dist in my opinion.

Just for your info, I am thinking about going back to a old dist on my 49, in fact, I ordered an old one off of EBay yesterday,I cannot get a good mech advance out of the two HEI's I have as they are a emissions part...they have very strong springs and even using weak springs...does not seem to help....I can only get about 30 degrees out of my HEI....my 283 needs much more as quick winding as it is...

I know my 68 without HEI is one quick fast car and it revs quickly...but it was balanced way back when local Nascar shops were in this town and it was balanced by Banjo Matthews shop. You can see my 68 on video proving my point on winding quick in the " lets hear your exhaust post from a few days ago".

Want a car that will not deliver what was intended ?....run a HEI dist in a 327 or 283 in my opinion. I had one in my 51 ford with a 305...it ran good...never gave any problems....but when you opened the custom built quadrajet up, it moaned....and thats about it...oh, after a while it would finally start to act like a V-8....but it took its own sweet time.

 

Thanks Mike. So that would be the red wire. What is the yellow for?

I often just have a irresistable desire to fix things that are not broken. It is a genetic flaw. Looking at my archive engine pics, this may be a no-go as I can't see that HEI distributor fitting with my 1974 air cleaner assembly. And I am not about to change that.

So on to other ways that I can make my Corvette life miserable. D***, I keep looking as the car ran so well last summer.

 

I usually try to do things as close to "factory" as possible. It just makes it easier on the next owner.

 

The yellow wire should be the cloth covered wire connected to the starter. The purpose of that wire is to supply a full 12v during startup. The stock ignition wire is a resistor wire, the yellow wire is to supply a full 12v when starting.

 

Paul,

If you read my post....it says what the yellow wire is for and what the red wire is for. And if you look on top of the plastic cover over the connections...it should read....TACH AND BAT.

 

I don't know how the NOS distributor managed it, but after fitting it in, looks like the tach cable may interfere with the present plumbing of the oil pressure gauge should a need for advance/retard is required (and I'm sure it will be).



Kinda hard to see that oil line, but it's there.

I felt a little breeze outta that #1 sparkplug hole as I wrenched the crank bolt/engine over to TDC. All sparkplugs were removed of course (I ain't that strong!).

 

Just a plumbers observation. You could slightly raise the oil line fitting, with a nipple, or even raise and add a 90 degree fitting to get it out of the way? mike...

 

Yes, I read your post. Red goes to "S" switched/start on the starter and yellow seems to be electric tach, so not needed. Where does the fusible link fit into this picture?

 

It looks like it could be carefully moved up a bit.

 

That's a helpful reply. Drift over from O/T?

 

I'm not sure I know what O/T means.

 

The Off Topic area of this Forum where any nonsense goes.

 

I don't think there is a fusible link in the ignition circuit, either points and coil or HEI.

 

Paul - An earlier post stated anyone who did not agree was called a retard. If my post offends you, I will delete it as this was not my intension.