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Ok, HELP! I removed a perfect functioning th-350 to replace the front seal and TC bushing because of a leak. I also cleaned and wrapped the tranny tunnel with Reflectix while the tranny was out. I put everything back together and filled the transmission with fluid, I never emptied the TC and while still up on jack stands started and ran thru the gears. Wheel movement was sluggish at first but eventually became responsive. Yesterday I dropped the car to the ground so I could take her for a spin before the snow starts falling and discovered I have no reverse. I didn't drive it far at all before discovering this, basically immediately after rolling too far out of the garage. 1st, 2nd and 3rd seem fine. I just don't want to drive it and risk further damage.
You sure you have enough fluid in the tranny? Let the car sit level and run it until it comes to operating temp and then check your fluid level again.
Thanks for your suggestion, Ill try that, right now I am riding high on fluid. Maybe I got impatient and got a case of doomsday, when I put the front pump in it took a couple of times to get it to seat in, I didn't force it but it has made me worry maybe I nicked up a passage way. I certainly have strong 1st thru 3rd gears, just no reverse unless she is up in the air with jack stands.
I put the car back up on jack stands today, started it and let it warm up gradually running through the gears. I do have braking when down shifting, reverse is weak where I can hold the wheel from spinning. It does appear though that high revs will get it going but certainly not as responsive as it should be. Is there a possibility that I cut a seal when putting the front pump back in? Fluid level dropped about an inch from not running to when I started it up.
Checking the fluid level while running. Why not run the car on sturdy jack stands outside of the obvious? Falling off of the jack stands and blowing through the back of my garage? I think I may know what is wrong, not sure but when I attached the shift linkage to the rooster comb i may have tightened and due to the fact the linkage wasn't hooked up inside the car the rooster comb may have over extended and either stretched or compressed the S hook which is connected to the piston going into the valve. Not going to look at it yet tonight but tomorrow I hope to have an answer. Shoot I have all winter but this is bugging me having my car messed up.
Last edited by Dopinoesvette; Dec 17, 2013 at 07:18 AM.
did the converter fully slide onto the input shaft? you usually have to spin it and play with it to get it to fully engage
I sure thought that it did, I didnt hear the 2 clunks that I was expecting but I wasnt bound up on the flex plate either so I assume it went in far enough.
Removed pan, rooster comb and S link were all ok, from what I have researched it says that while the rooter comb is in the D location the piston rod should be just out of the valve body, well mine is alot furthur then "Just"
I sure thought that it did, I didnt hear the 2 clunks that I was expecting but I wasnt bound up on the flex plate either so I assume it went in far enough.
Yeah, I guess thats next for me to verify, make sure the TC is properly inserted and in position. Outside of that there isnt anything left to check outside of removing the tranny again and taking a look at the front pump. I can pull that tranny in about a 1/2 an hour if it werent for the exhaust being welded complete and routed thru the cross member. About an hour for that whole process. I hate doing things twice!!!
thats why you should get side pipes! makes everything so much easier! and it gives you these really cool scars on the back of your calves!
You know I sure have thought of the side pipes, probably would have done it already except my exhaust is brand new, well a couple years old new and I dont want to just toss out what I have...Yet.
When the torque converter is fully seated into the trans pump and the trans is bolted to the engine....
you should have to "pull" the torque converter out of the trans a little to get it to seat against the the flywheel.
I removed the flexplate to TC bolts last night, thats not the problem, I strained the tranny fluid and discovered 2 very very small pieces of non metallic material in the fluid. I'm thinking front pump issue now, out comes the tranny is my next move.
I sure thought that it did, I didnt hear the 2 clunks that I was expecting but I wasnt bound up on the flex plate either so I assume it went in far enough.
Sorry.....I didn't pay attention...I wish it was something simple like: It took me a weekend of off-'n-on driving around the neighborhood/letting the car sit-engine off for an hour to cool everything down....before my 700R4 began working correctly in all gears (but I could park in front of my home so that reverse was not needed except to test reverse to see if it was "getting better"). It STILL hesitates after shifting into reverse...but works fine once it engages (not ideal, but 20,000 miles later I"VE adjusted...LOL).
Speaking of adjusted, being a rookie---are there adjustments/a reverse band that you can adjust? Also, just wondering why a faulty pump neglects to cause problems in the forward gears?
Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 19, 2013 at 08:20 AM.