SNAP! Spring I think...
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From: FL
SNAP! Spring I think...
So last night the wife and I are going to cruise around looking at Christmas lights. I'm stopped at a red light in first gear clutch in and I (we) hear a snap! It sounded close like near the master cylinder. I let the clutch out to go and the clutch pedal was easier / lighter than before the snap. The car operated the same with no clutch slip etc. just had an easier clutch pedal. I checked the linkage - the anti-raddle springs are in tact, the clutch pedal return spring is also good. I looked under the dash and there seems to be a spring there too from what I can see of the attached to the pedal. However, I can't feel a spring, can't see a spring and I don't see a spring listed in the parts catalog other that the pedal shaft keeper g-clip. Do you guys have any suggestions on what it was that snapped? Is there a clutch spring inside the cabin? We drove for an hour with no issues other than the pedal feeling lighter so something definitely let go but I can't or haven't been able to track it down. Thoughts?
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From: FL
Thanks Mike. Yeah I was just looking in my book and found an illustration of it. I'm not real excited about trying to replace at this time. I can't do reverese hand stands anymore to get up to it. I may go with a little heavier return spring in the engine bay - but then that's a Bubba fix.
1969/1971/2021 Coupes
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From: Port Huron MI
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Keep in mind that if you do go with a heavier return spring, that will increase the pedal pressure you feel when sitting in traffic (cruises) or multiple consecutive lights through town. I say this because my 69 is very comfortable to drive but my 71 is another story. Leg feels like a rubber band after one pass through our local towns annual cruise. 
Terry
Terry
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From: FL
I'm going to drive it the way it is for now. The current clutch pedal return spring attaches to a thin piece of metal on the firewall. I don't want to stress that area with a heavier spring. In addition, of all the parts houses I've looked at doesn't sell the spring that failed. So I'm guessing it's not that big of deal. The pedal is the height that it was before and I don't mind the lighter feeling pedal.
I agree with you that it doesn't take long to get a tiered leg when in heavy traffic.
I agree with you that it doesn't take long to get a tiered leg when in heavy traffic.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Fairfield County CT
Reminds me of the time when getting on to the highway, the pin on the clutch pedal snapped. Had to stay in 3rd gear for the 10 mile highway trek, but the real challenge was getting off the highway during rush hour.
This was long before cell phones. No sooner did I get off the ramp and coasted in neutral, when a good Samaritan in a truck pulled up. He hooked up, the valance was already broken, and towed me home.
What followed next was a series of poor repairs by the local "corvette expert" (Ron's Speed & Sport). That was the beginning of the end of my love for my 73 and I stored the car away for nearly 20 years.
Love has been rekindled.
This was long before cell phones. No sooner did I get off the ramp and coasted in neutral, when a good Samaritan in a truck pulled up. He hooked up, the valance was already broken, and towed me home.
What followed next was a series of poor repairs by the local "corvette expert" (Ron's Speed & Sport). That was the beginning of the end of my love for my 73 and I stored the car away for nearly 20 years.
Love has been rekindled.
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From: FL
You brought up my next concern Ratfinkharley. If my spring broke then how much wear is on the clutch pedal pin & push rod? I can't even reach up there to feel it let alone try to replace it. Does anyone have any tips on how to inspect / repair the clutch pedal hardware. I'm thinking I will need to pull the gauge cluster dash to gain access. A clutch pedal is always a good thing to have with a manual transmission...
Last edited by Vettereturned; Dec 21, 2013 at 11:07 AM.
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Northern CO
All clutch cars should have a clutch pedal assembly; makes getting into first or reverse, so much easier...
Here's a pic of the clutch pedal return spring from my '72 car. Is this the one that you can see broken?
One end attaches to the firewall here, next to the steering column, correct?
The other spring end, in the smaller hole of the z-bar(near side by stud & nut, in this image):
I expect that mechanically, my pedals aren't that much different than yours (they're the same). Under the dash, I don't recall a spring connected to the clutch rod, so that's a plus. BTW, I used a Steeroids clutch linkage kit. That may be why the linkage here may look different than OEM. Visible linkage to the switch is part of the neutral safety interlock.
If the anti-rattle springs are intact, I'd expect it's just a matter of replacing the spring attached to the firewall flange, no?
Let us know if this offers any help. Good luck.
Here's a pic of the clutch pedal return spring from my '72 car. Is this the one that you can see broken?
One end attaches to the firewall here, next to the steering column, correct?
The other spring end, in the smaller hole of the z-bar(near side by stud & nut, in this image):
I expect that mechanically, my pedals aren't that much different than yours (they're the same). Under the dash, I don't recall a spring connected to the clutch rod, so that's a plus. BTW, I used a Steeroids clutch linkage kit. That may be why the linkage here may look different than OEM. Visible linkage to the switch is part of the neutral safety interlock.
If the anti-rattle springs are intact, I'd expect it's just a matter of replacing the spring attached to the firewall flange, no?
Let us know if this offers any help. Good luck.
Last edited by Dustup7T2; Dec 21, 2013 at 08:17 PM.
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Safety Car
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From: los altos hills california
You brought up my next concern Ratfinkharley. If my spring broke then how much wear is on the clutch pedal pin & push rod? I can't even reach up there to feel it let alone try to replace it. Does anyone have any tips on how to inspect / repair the clutch pedal hardware. I'm thinking I will need to pull the gauge cluster dash to gain access.
The situation demands you take a closer look at what's up there. Something similar but worse happened to me. While driving around I pushed the clutch pedal in and it stayed there. Made it home OK (an adventure to be sure in timing red lights and controlling RPM to shift) to discover that the cotter pin had worn off and the pedal slipped off the post.
As you say "a clutch pedal is always a good thing to have with a manual transmission".
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From: FL
Thanks for the excellent pictures Dustup7T2! The return spring on my firewall is attached like you pointed out and is in tack. When I look in my Mid America illustrated parts book on the 70' it shows a coil spring that fits over the clutch pedal pin to keep the clutch pedal up. This coil spring would be an assist to clutch return spring located in the engine bay. However, when I looked in all of the parts catalogs they don't show the spring I'm referring to, they all show the "clutch return spring'. I can live with that and will pick-up a spare spring. In the meantime I will be inspecting and lubricating the clutch pivot / attaching hardware - once I figure out the best way to access it. Thanks to everyone for their input, I appreciate the help.
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From: FL
Hey Dustup7T2 - I just noticed in your pictures the 'orange' spring is the one I suspected of snapping. However, my brake is of normal height and feel, it's the clutch pedal that went weak. Thanks again for taking the time to post the pictures.
Thanks to you too Ignatz - the situation that you describe is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.
Thanks to you too Ignatz - the situation that you describe is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Northern CO
Sure, V-r, happy to offer some digital info.
As I recall, that orange spring is primarily to keep the brake lever up. Those shaft components are from a bushing rebuild kit that I ordered and installed.
Those parts can be seen when you click on the picture in this CC link:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z50000050G~~~
I don't think the orange spring influences the position of the clutch arm at all. The arm position is adjusted more from the linkage all the way to the fork and assisted up with that spring at the firewall flange. Hope that you get it fixed to your satisfaction.
As I recall, that orange spring is primarily to keep the brake lever up. Those shaft components are from a bushing rebuild kit that I ordered and installed.
Those parts can be seen when you click on the picture in this CC link:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z50000050G~~~
I don't think the orange spring influences the position of the clutch arm at all. The arm position is adjusted more from the linkage all the way to the fork and assisted up with that spring at the firewall flange. Hope that you get it fixed to your satisfaction.