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I have a 78 Pace Car that has been sitting since 1981. The rear driver side wheel only rotates forward. When I tried to take the wheel off to see what may be causing it to bind it wouldn't budge. The same applies to the passenger side. I have yet to try the front wheels. I've used PB Blaster on the lugs and tried to spray behind the wheel the best I could but with all the stuff in the way I don't think the spray reached the surface where the wheel meets the hub. I've tried kicking the tires around the edges to break the rust. I've tried placing a board on the wheel/tire and hitting it with a sledge hammer. I tried loosening the lug nuts and lowering the car down to put the weight on the wheel and shook the car in an attempt to break it and as a last resort I hooked a tow strap to the tire/wheel and tried to pull it off with my truck but the whole car moved. Hopefully within the next week I plan on taking the body off the frame so that should give me better access to the back of the wheel but any suggestions are appreciated and welcome.
Jack the car up and hit the tire (rubber) from the back side with a 3 or 10 lb sledge hammer, Rotate the tire if possible between hits. Do not hit the rim, unless you feel like buying new ones. The oxidation of the aluminum has caused the rim to almost weld itself to the wheel hub.
Jack the car up and hit the tire (rubber) from the back side with a 3 or 10 lb sledge hammer, Rotate the tire if possible between hits. Do not hit the rim, unless you feel like buying new ones. The oxidation of the aluminum has caused the rim to almost weld itself to the wheel hub.
Good luck
I have better luck using a dead blow hammer and hitting the rim directly,no damage is done but you get the results you want.
I had a range rover with alloy wheels which would stick on the steel hubs... I used to loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns then drive it slowly until they moved... this assumes you can loosen the nuts of course!!
Aluminum + steel + moisture = galvanic corrosion; unholy alliance between two dissimilar metals.
Solution: coat fasteners with silicone barrier grease. Problem solved.
To break up a 'bad marriage,' apply muriatic acid to nuts using an acid compatible plastic syringe. Carefully squirt acid on backside of fastener. Wait 15 minutes, apply again. Whack nuts with hammer and wood; then apply breaker bar to nuts.
I have a 78 Pace Car that has been sitting since 1981. The rear driver side wheel only rotates forward. When I tried to take the wheel off to see what may be causing it to bind it wouldn't budge. The same applies to the passenger side. I have yet to try the front wheels. I've used PB Blaster on the lugs and tried to spray behind the wheel the best I could but with all the stuff in the way I don't think the spray reached the surface where the wheel meets the hub. I've tried kicking the tires around the edges to break the rust. I've tried placing a board on the wheel/tire and hitting it with a sledge hammer. I tried loosening the lug nuts and lowering the car down to put the weight on the wheel and shook the car in an attempt to break it and as a last resort I hooked a tow strap to the tire/wheel and tried to pull it off with my truck but the whole car moved. Hopefully within the next week I plan on taking the body off the frame so that should give me better access to the back of the wheel but any suggestions are appreciated and welcome.
Hitting on the tire to remove a very badly stuck wheel is nearly useless- the tire absorbs 90% of the force of the blow. You need to strike the wheel directly, from BEHIND, with a heavy hammer. As mentioned previously, don't whack the wheel directly with the hammer. Use a sturdy wooden block and hit it hard, again from the INSIDE, rotating the wheel as you go. It will come off eventually. I've been in this situation several times () and have found this method effective every time.
Hitting on the tire to remove a very badly stuck wheel is nearly useless- the tire absorbs 90% of the force of the blow.
Have you ever hit a tire with a 10lb sledgehammer to brake it loose? Let me know how you make out when you do.
Yes the tire does absorb some of the force but it also has more force than a dead blow hammer and guaranteed to not damage the rim.
How much damage do you think a deadblow hammer/block of wood will do when you hit the beadring on the aluminum rim?
A very common problem common problem on daily drivers in northern Ohio. I'm not sure I can help you get them off ,but I plan to put a thin coat of never seize on my hubs to keep them from sticking in the future.
Block of wood with moderate hits on wheel, rotate and hit in different locations, small electric heater available? Position to heat face of wheel....the proceed with. Block of wood and hammer...have done this successfully with very stubborn wheels
Jack the car up and hit the tire (rubber) from the back side with a 3 or 10 lb sledge hammer, Rotate the tire if possible between hits. Do not hit the rim, unless you feel like buying new ones. The oxidation of the aluminum has caused the rim to almost weld itself to the wheel hub.
Good luck
I tried that but had a bit of a problem getting enough leverage to swing the sledge with any force. Guess I'll try again and figure out a way to swing the sledge harder while laying on my back under the car.
Originally Posted by jnealg
Loosen the lug nuts a thread or two and drive it a few yards. Might give the steering a turn or two. They'll come loose.
Edit, whoops you said it been sitting. Try towing it around with the loose nuts.
If I fail to loosen the wheel by the method above I may try this but remember that the left side wheel ony rotates forward so I will have difficulty getting the car back in my driveway where it needs to be. After I bought it we had to spray the trailer with WD40 and pushed the car until it slid down the trailer to where it now sits.
Thanks to all for your suggestions. Once it stops raining I'll keep trying.
How much damage do you think a deadblow hammer/block of wood will do when you hit the beadring on the aluminum rim?
A lot! Thats why you pound on the block of wood. I'd imagine a mis-directed blow from a 10 lb sledge would mess up an aluminum wheel quite dramatically as well! I guess the bottom line is either method will work, it just depends on what you have available to use. Either way- be careful.
[QUOTE=Sunset Orng 05;1585784239
If I fail to loosen the wheel by the method above I may try this but remember that the left side wheel ony rotates forward so I will have difficulty getting the car back in my driveway where it needs to be. After I bought it we had to spray the trailer with WD40 and pushed the car until it slid down the trailer to where it now sits.
Thanks to all for your suggestions. Once it stops raining I'll keep trying.[/QUOTE]
Go by Home Depot and get a $15 moving dolly and if it doesn't break loose sett on the dolly to push back. Cheap rolling dolly.
As others have stated, you need to beat the backside of the tire to death with the biggest hammer you can swing. Dont be afraid, just let loose and rotate the tire every few blows. I know you think you are already giving it your best, but Ive actually had to lower the tire to about 1/2 inch off the ground and take a full swing with a 20 lb sledge.
CAUTIONARY NOTE- DO NOT HAVE YOUR HEAD ANYWHERE NEAR THE REBOUND PATH OF THE HAMMER. That rubber tire filled with air likes to deflect the incoming force back outwards.