No right way - Return Fuel Vent
What have some of you guys done in this situation to ensure safety? Cut the line back to mid car and cap? Any other better way?
What have some of you guys done in this situation to ensure safety? Cut the line back to mid car and cap? Any other better way?





1) Fuel removed HAS to be replaced w/ air...well see below...
2} Gas expands and contracts w/ temps and creates vapors- has to go somewhere...
Can change over to vented cap- but several have complained about the gas smell-especially if you have a Vert....
A little extreme-but you get the idea


I am going w/ fuel injection- so I went a littler overkill

My issue was the venting-I have a non-vented cap- and from what I have read just changing over to a vented cap (designed for a carbs) can shorten the life of the pump and cause venting issues- not to mention that gas smell.
I looked at the vent on the Aeromotive piece and the manual said the vent should be 6" above the tank and use a roll over valve. In a Vette to do this the vent would have to be a couple of inches above the rear deck!!!
So here's what I did-
I added a roll over valve- connected it to a charcoal canister ( used in GM cars for the brake vacuum line) and then an vent used in marine applications. I put the vent in the rubber neck at the gas filler. I also ended up going w/ Russel Synthetic rubber hoses to hopefully stop the permeation of the ethanol in the gas - and gas smells,
roll over valve

Vent for boat hulls-

How it's plumbed

So my thoughts- no gas smell- have a roll over valve if I am ever unfortunate to roll the car. I am also adding a Ford inertia switch to shut the fuel pump from an impact. Has a reset and was planning to mount it in the battery compartment -for easy access.
They can be bought new from AutoZone, etc. but the price is closer to $60.
I use an external pump, a C5 filter/regulator and return through the evap fitting on the tank. I switched to a vented cap and I have never had a problem with fumes in the garage.

Rick B.









