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I finally got the carpet in and have begun assembling the dash. I've had a heckuva time getting the instrument panel in. When I THOUGHT I'd finally got it in and lined up, with the proper screws back in it I went to put the center gauges in and the console in. The problem I'm having is it seems as if everything needs to move up about 1/4" and in towards the firewall about a full 1/2 and there just doesn't seem to be a way to do that. I think somehow it went wrong trying to get the tach/speedo assembly part of the dash back it place. The odometer reset cable coming out of the back of the speedometer was right up against a brace. I had a hechuva time with this, and I fear this entire fitment issue may resolve around this. If anyone has had a similar issue, PLEASE chime in. I'm about ready to pull the entire mess out and start again. I cant tell you how much a pain this area has been. This is reducing my steam to want to get anything done until I can get past this issue. The aftermarket radio is tight, however it's not stopping me. It's like the entire dash needs to shift towards the firewall, yet there isn't room for that. Worst of all, It was all in and together fine before I took it all out to ready the tachometer and restore the rest of the gauges. I'm at a loss at this time.
So.....everything is going normally on a dash installation!
TAKE YOUR TIME OR YOU'LL BREAK SOMETHING THAT IS VERY EXPENSIVE.
The dash harness has to be in the perfect position...do what you have to in order to make that happen!
Then carefully put the driver's side gauge panel in place---it should go into place easily---IF THE HARNESS IS COMPRESSED AS CLOSE TO THE FIREWALL AS POSSIBLE IN THE FACTORY POSITION (if only I had taken pics of everything before/during disassembly!!!!)
Then install the center gauge panel (so you can get your hand around the right/back-side of it to help things fit properly.
Then.....the passenger's side panel.
It took me only "3" tries!!!!
(I'm doing something much easier now......rebuilding the rear suspension/differential....a piece of cake compared to the dash reassembly!)
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 22, 2014 at 05:26 PM.
The speedo cable and the tach cable are very stiff. make sure that when you install the left side panel, both of these cables are not binding when you set the panel back in place.
Check to make sure that the heater ducts are all in their proper places too.
Take your time, make sure that everything is in it's proper place. It WILL go back together, section by section as the other members have said.
This weekend, I'll pull her out. When I initially removed it, the steering column was still in place. I just dropped it low enough to get the gauges out. The column is now out getting restored and ready for the rack and pinion conversion. I think it might be a LOT easier seeing what is going on. Also, some have said I needed to pull the upper dashpad in order to get the gauges in properly. I didn't pull it to remove them. I shouldn't have to just to get it back in. With the column out of the way, I think I will be much easier to see what the heck I'm hitting on. I'm betting a dollar it's right around the speedometer area. This is the WORST problem I have had to deal with, hands down.
This weekend, I'll pull her out. When I initially removed it, the steering column was still in place. I just dropped it low enough to get the gauges out. The column is now out getting restored and ready for the rack and pinion conversion. I think it might be a LOT easier seeing what is going on. Also, some have said I needed to pull the upper dashpad in order to get the gauges in properly. I didn't pull it to remove them. I shouldn't have to just to get it back in. With the column out of the way, I think I will be much easier to see what the heck I'm hitting on. I'm betting a dollar it's right around the speedometer area. This is the WORST problem I have had to deal with, hands down.
Yes...leave the top dash pad on.
It is difficult, but you will get it
Major b! Tch for sure though.....
About to begin reinstalling my dash too. Everything is out. Are you saying put the top dash in first? Confused about the assembly order.
Yes....the order I did it in was:
Top
Left
Center
Right
Shifter column
E-brake console
It take a LOT of patience.......I had to really shove "pry" on the shifter column to get it into place......I was careful but completely scared of hurting it!
I am in the same boat. I am down to the parking brake console. The shifter console needs to move forward 1/4 or 1/2" before the parking brake console will drop in. I think I have to push the bottom of the upper dashes back to be able to drop the console's in.
I had to walk away cause of the weather, but it is my first job when the garage warms up.
I am in the same boat. I am down to the parking brake console. The shifter console needs to move forward 1/4 or 1/2" before the parking brake console will drop in. I think I have to push the bottom of the upper dashes back to be able to drop the console's in.
I had to walk away cause of the weather, but it is my first job when the garage warms up.
Ken
Firmly push the shifter console forward....it will move up enough
I had the same problem and a CF vendor called me and told me they have to do that almost every time.....
The main dash wiring harness must be correctly routed behind the dash panel to avoid bumping into the underdash bracing. Some model years route the harness over the speedo/tach; other model years route it under. Do you recall the position of the harness when you removed the dash?
The main dash wiring harness must be correctly routed behind the dash panel to avoid bumping into the underdash bracing. Some model years route the harness over the speedo/tach; other model years route it under. Do you recall the position of the harness when you removed the dash?
The main harness runs on top of gauges. There are two rubber coated bendable metal tabs that mount to the top of both the speedo and the tach. The wiring loom is held tight to this area.
For my 68, the entire front dash panels had long been removed. I installed new repro harnesses and also some custom harnesses for electric fuel pump, electric fan, etc. Bottom line, when it came time to install the driver's side dash panel..nothing fit. With the repro harnesses, the custom harnesses, and also pushing around the stock harnesses.....NOTHING fit.
Bottom line solution (after many failed attempted shortcuts), I removed the steering wheel column. Surprisingly it was pretty easy. With the steering wheel column out of the way...it's a lot easier to work under the dash...Of course, I'de removed the driver's side seat. Next, I took the driver's side dash panel with the tach and speedo and removed them. With the steering wheel column gone and the tack and speedo housings gone, I mated up the driver's dash panel...the dash panel now had big holes in it because the speedo and tach housings were missing. . With these big holes, I could now see interference issues. I used my hands through the open, empty tach/speedo "holes" and with my hands pushed and re-arranged interference wiring/vacuum hoses that were in the way of the tach/speedo housings and it's cabling. Now with interference issues "pushed"away, I installed the tach and speedo housings on the panel and then placed the entire assembly in place and screwed it in.
...............................
I've done several complete removal and installations of C3 interiors in my lifetime. If someone wanted me to do a removal/installation, I'd tell them that you cannot now remove a C3 interior without doing damage. The panels and particular with their plastic interior substrates become very brittle with their now age. The interior parts, on the assembly line...many years ago, were not really designed to be removed..particularly 40 years later. The goal of removing C3 interior parts now is to do minimal damage for the entire project. I think, for minimal damage, you really need someone with experience...or go very slow and ask forum members for advice if you get in a jamb. It's a lot of fun!!
I spent most of the day removing and rethinking. I removed the steering column to restore it, though, it was in place when I removed the instrument cluster. I ended up pulling the shift console (again), pulling the radio/gauges (again) and finally removing the instrument cluster section of the dash. After not seeing anything that could cause such a fitment issue. Bewildered, I once again attempted to put it back together for the third time. This time, for whatever reason, I gained that 1/2" in forward movement. Mind you, it was tight, but what was once impossible was once again possible. I FINALLY got her together RIGHT! I cant tell you how depressed this issue had made me. Though I have a ton of things to get done, I simply couldn't get my head around anything until this issue was resolved. To further ice the proverbial cake, I found my misplaced brand new parking brake dust cover so I can finish putting the remaining item in. YAY!